1979 Viking build

[LakeFever]

Thanks i really like it too. The seastar jackplate lifts 5.6” and does the entire move in 8 seconds. The feature that really put me onto these is the protap. I can program the max lift position i want and it will return there when i tap the button twice. I can also program lift increments so one tap could be one inch. Theres more features too i cant recall but i had issues with my first stream paddle wheeling which freaked me out a lot. It happened when i jacked the plate too high and i had blowout a few times on that rig too. Mind you i was stream green so i was doing things i shouldnt trying to figure it all out. Anyways i looked at all the jackplates the market had to offer and liked this one best. Seems ultra rigid too which is nice

Edit for gratuitous pic. I would love to leave it as it is with no rubrail its looks so clean and tight but thats never going to survive in my world so the ranger rub rail install is coming soon

[VkingMike]

Thats an awesome feature. I'm looking for a plate with a bit more lift for my stream. My other option is a 15" mid and I don't even want to get that involved lol

[LakeFever]

Ya i hear you. I did some measuring and mounted it high as i dared. The lower will be about 2” below the pad where it is now and i can jack it higher than need be. Hopefully it all works good, no turning back now lol. The second choice was the Atlas. I liked these two because 4” setback. I did consider building my own 2” set back jackplate but didn’t want to put more time into this build delaying launch by a good margin too

[tnelsmn]

Those SeaStar plates look really stout. I like that you marked the bolts as well. Never knew about that tap feature, thats awesome!

[62 bugzilla]

This project is great and just went thru all 26 pages and learned a ton. Thanks for all your work putting this into a thread for others to see. Going to be an awesome boat and the best part is now when your putting on all the bells and whistles!! Great job!!!

[LakeFever]

Rub rail installed. Quite a bit of effort to get that sucker on there. Soaked it in a 45gal drum of hot water for 30 mins to soften it. Still had to wrastle this sucker over the lip we were sweatin bullets. Looks ok, i much prefer the look without but function is definitely there this is a beefy rub rail. Ranger bass boat rail for anyone curious got it at Great Lakes Skipper

[LakeFever]

New trailer wheels

[LakeFever]

Spring around the corner back to this project. Made a new frame for the rear bench out of coosa today. Have to tab it in and mount the seat panel but it’s a start

[LakeFever]

Managed a few hours today. Ran some stainless piano hinge and a piece of 1708 on top of the seat. Tomorrow I’ll tab in the rest of the base.

[LakeFever]

Time is really not on my side much these days so I enlisted help to assemble my lower unit. I did manage to wrap up the rear seat frame and the front seats are done. I have to focus on the motor next

[LakeFever]

Got the mid mounted and started plotting out rigging holes for steering and controls. Also working on the engine cover prepping for paint

[VkingMike]

Looking really good!

[LakeFever]

Yesterday was not very productive. Today I managed a tricky task of making this battery tray bracket. It took the best part of the day if you can believe that. I made the battery pad with the plan of using a box with a strap so I had planned for that with the layup. After hippie showed me a better system and a few people I spoke with who crapped all over using a battery box ( I had no idea they were so disliked I had good experience with them ) anyways I opted for a Moeller hold down which is certainly nicer. I had no way of bolting it down to the hull because I had planned for the box and I didn’t feel comfortable with screws holding down the battery so I made this thing up. I only had some hard aluminum in hand I had to anneal the heck out of it to work with it. My brake is buried and set up for 16ga so I just used a couple pieces of angle iron and my vise as a break. Hammered it square. It’s bolted from below with #10 stainless countersunk screws and nylocs and into the knee and stringer with 1/4” stainless again with nylocs. Anyways that was today. One more little job done

[LakeFever]

Laid out and drilled my rigging holes today