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  1. #16
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    Canada seys :
    Transfer - 122⁰ duration, time area- .0001070 angle area 3.856
    Boost - 126⁰
    Blowdown - 18⁰


    What is the bore , stroke and rod length on those Yamaha's. I have a 250 sleeve here I could measure the port ht's on .. but if you know them .. post them .

    We can use .75 mm as a "in the hole number" to come up with a accurate timing number.

  2. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by Chaz View Post
    Canada seys :


    What is the bore , stroke and rod length on those Yamaha's. I have a 250 sleeve here I could measure the port ht's on .. but if you know them .. post them .

    We can use .75 mm as a "in the hole number" to come up with a accurate timing number. [/COLOR]
    Bore 93mm
    Stroke 82mm
    Rod length 171mm

    Ex 2.005"
    Trans 2.447"
    Boost 2.533"
    Those are completely ignoring the chambers.

  3. #18
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    A few more pictures.
    Everything is roughed in. Waiting on a few tools to show up before I can texture/ polish (whatever you want to call it) my work. Then the block is off the machine shop.
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    Put a piece of tube over the burr shanks to help prevent any damage if I let the shaft rub against things it shouldn't... still didn't save me. Sometimes I'm too dumb for my own good. Machine shop will decide if the block needs to get decked.....
    Click image for larger version. 

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    A tiny bit of gasket matching where it meets up to the tuner. Not much material to take off.
    The enclosed exhaust runner makes it impossible to to do any serious polishing or clean up work. And I'm not willing to cut it off for that.
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  4. #19
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    For $2 dollars buy a Grey round 1 inch stone and work the edges off your work.....as it gets smaller go in the small places...........Smooth is nice.

  5. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dave S View Post
    For $2 dollars buy a Grey round 1 inch stone and work the edges off your work.....as it gets smaller go in the small places...........Smooth is nice.
    I was waiting on a smaller angle die grinder to work the ports a bit more. Everything will be blended and smoothed out a bunch more.

    Anyone have a good trick for getting the carbon out of the exhaust track?

    And I now have the lower unit apart with the intent of cutting the tuner similarly to how FORBES cut his tuner.
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    Is this rubber contraption necessary?

    Only 1 seized motor mount bolt. The top bolts are not stainless. Was able to beat it part way out then cut it off.

  6. #21
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    That outer can is only good for holding the water tube in place ...

    On the smaller Yamaha's .. there are no water ports or channels other than the pick-up tube . Check to make sure that the "bubble" on the front is of no use , then cut it off aprox. 3-4" from it's base ...

  7. #22
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    I just ran your numbers.

    Merc's have a 5500 rpm transfer system and a 8000 rpm exhaust.

    Yamaha's have a 8000 rpm transfer and a 5500 rpm exhaust.

    Both seem to work ..

    A good 90* attachment, will deff step your game up ..


  8. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by Chaz View Post
    I just ran your numbers.

    Merc's have a 5500 rpm transfer system and a 8000 rpm exhaust.

    Yamaha's have a 8000 rpm transfer and a 5500 rpm exhaust.

    Both seem to work ..

    A good 90* attachment, will deff step your game up ..

    Chaz.
    Now if I can get a 8000 rpm exhaust and rev limiter to match....
    That's a decent investment in hand pieces right there.
    All CC specialties stuff?
    If I ever end up in a position to do more motors I'll be making the investment in the electric/ cable driven stuff.
    A small 90 made a huge difference and helped me clean up my "extra rough" in of the ports in decent time.
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    What's everyone's opinions on the aftermarket outboard rebuild kits? I'm slightly skeptical although I've been told they are of decent quality.

    Block is getting crated up today heading to the machine shop.

  9. #24
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    Get a grey ball... and 10 inch drill extesion that square grinder is hard to flair with......

  10. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by canuckr View Post
    Chaz.
    Now if I can get a 8000 rpm exhaust and rev limiter to match....
    That's a decent investment in hand pieces right there.
    All CC specialties stuff?
    If I ever end up in a position to do more motors I'll be making the investment in the electric/ cable driven stuff.
    A small 90 made a huge difference and helped me clean up my "extra rough" in of the ports in decent time.
    Click image for larger version. 

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    What's everyone's opinions on the aftermarket outboard rebuild kits? I'm slightly skeptical although I've been told they are of decent quality.

    Block is getting crated up today heading to the machine shop.
    No matter how much you buy .. there's never enough .. LOL
    The cable drive stuff is from CC . Any replacement parts i needed I bought from

    https://www.foredom.net/

    The cable drive 90* hand piece from CC is excellent for finish work. I have burned thru a few gear sets using it for stock removal with coarse alum burs. I have a few different HD 90* air tools to take care of the easier accessible areas .

    The stone you have there .. I shorten the shank to get the stone right up against the collet. You have to be careful , if you over heat the shaft .. the stone will fall off
    As you know , when it loads up like that .. it's not cutting ****..
    I use to clean, shape and size mounted stones on a concrete block .. I bought a dressing block , 5" x 1/2" pink and grey stones from these folks . Cross buff's too , they leave a great finish .

    http://www.ruffstuff.com/

  11. #26
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    Block is gone to the machine shop. They are supposed to look at it this week and let me know what's up. Then hopefully I can get the heads shipped out.

    Anyone put EGT probes in one of these 3.3 blocks? Looking for input on that if possible.

  12. #27
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    Haven't had much to update on. Besides buying lots of rigging stuff to get this boat running.
    I did make up some replacement bushings for the trim/tilt assembly from bronze. Yamaha uses some pretty crappy looking plastic ones that were obviously obliterated.
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    I also hate the adjustable bushings and split nut thing used on the hydraulic steering rams so I turned and threaded some aluminum spacers to replace them.
    Click image for larger version. 

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    I've ordered some mercury 2.5L rifle drilled bolts and EGT probes from exhaust gas technology. There are 2 bolt holes that I need to drill out and tap to 5/16-18 and they should work fine.
    Click image for larger version. 

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    And Chaz now has the info req'd to start working on my heads whenever he gets to that.

  13. #28
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    Been a while since I've posted much. Waiting on boat parts and rigging stuff mostly.
    Some pics of the EGT positioning.
    Was able to fit the Mercury rifle drilled bolts/ probes. Drilled the blind 6mm hole through and out to 5/16. Everything lined up exactly as I hoped.
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    Block going back together.
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    CCMS reeds going in
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    Installed a 300hp TB set up. Cleaned up some mismatching before I did it.
    Click image for larger version. 

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  14. #29
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    Click image for larger version. 

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    Terrible photo, but you get the point.
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    Basically the way it sits now.
    Waiting for some more parts.
    Moved on to rigging what I can for the boat.
    Last edited by canuckr; 05-19-2021 at 07:32 PM.

  15. #30
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    Canuckr ,

    You have mail ...

    Call or text me @ 772-408-7377

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