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Thread: Coosa transom bonding
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02-12-2021, 02:41 PM #1
Coosa transom bonding
Ordered material today getting ready and had a couple questions re coosa. Im using 3/4" two or three? layers thick for the transom and vinylester for resin. I also bought corebond for the core but is corebond any good for the transom with coosa? Or do I lay it into cabosil/vinylester putty? Do I bond the transom stack sheets of coosa the same way or? thanks gents
Hydrostream dreamin
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02-12-2021, 03:16 PM #2Screaming And Flying!
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I rough up the coosa and set it with wet glass. 2 lays 1.5 oz matt. 1 on the boat and 1 on the coosa. Drill some relief holes in the coosa. As to cabosil and resin? Vinylester in thin applications is said to give a weak bond. I can't confirm this. I would think corebond would work well too. I went for overkill and used (2 )3/4'' and a (1) 1/2'' Overall thickness was near 3''. Hasn't cracked yet 5+ years of abuse with a 505# engine on a 5'' set back.
83 V-King, 96 Mariner, 200 hp ff block 2.5 w/a 28p choppa
We gotta clean this liberal mess up, VOTE TRUMP TO MAGA!
Rebuild thread:
http://www.screamandfly.com/showthre...-it&highlight=
http://www.screamandfly.com/showthre...cs.&highlight=
Videos
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02-12-2021, 04:55 PM #3
Seems like core bond is easier and if it doesn’t flag as bad by your opinion then it’s likely just fine thanks. I’m gonna start a build thread soon as I get it indoors but I like the way you did your knees on top of the floor I’m thinking similar.
you think two 3/4” layers of coosa is strong enough for transom? I’m not opposed to buying more if more is necHydrostream dreamin
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02-12-2021, 05:45 PM #4Screaming And Flying!
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2 layers of 3/4'' will be fine. Add some good 1708 and the thing will be super strong. I also like my batt and oil tank platforms with the wide spread knees that allow for the center mounted fuel tank. It's never been done that way as far as I know by anyone else.
83 V-King, 96 Mariner, 200 hp ff block 2.5 w/a 28p choppa
We gotta clean this liberal mess up, VOTE TRUMP TO MAGA!
Rebuild thread:
http://www.screamandfly.com/showthre...-it&highlight=
http://www.screamandfly.com/showthre...cs.&highlight=
Videos
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02-12-2021, 07:04 PM #5
Ya exactly what I like about it. Strong and lots of space in the middle. I think I’m going to glass in a battery mount under the bow too in case it floats tail low.
Hydrostream dreamin
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02-12-2021, 08:23 PM #6Screaming And Flying!
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I did the same on the fwd batt mount. Boats happier with everything in the stern. Side steer will need the weight in the port side anyway.
83 V-King, 96 Mariner, 200 hp ff block 2.5 w/a 28p choppa
We gotta clean this liberal mess up, VOTE TRUMP TO MAGA!
Rebuild thread:
http://www.screamandfly.com/showthre...-it&highlight=
http://www.screamandfly.com/showthre...cs.&highlight=
Videos
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LakeFever liked this post
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04-03-2021, 06:58 AM #7
To drill or not to drill? That is the question. Relief holes or no?
My plan so far is no drill, scuff in cross cross pattern with 40 grit by hand with sanding block, coat both pieces of coosa with corebond and wipe the one off with a plastic spreader so it’s only leaving a very thin coat to aid bonding and the second layer I will use 1/4” v notch trowel. Lay the two pieces on a flat surface, place parchment paper, plywood, then a few concrete blocks on top and let cure.
not sure if I should drill 1/8” relief holes in these sheets or notLast edited by LakeFever; 04-03-2021 at 07:06 AM.
Hydrostream dreamin
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04-03-2021, 08:44 AM #8Screaming And Flying!
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Best way to ensure a good bond is to eliminate air pockets. The holes ensure that. Also give more contact area. Think of them as internal fasteners . I always do it. Even on solid foam sheets or plywood.
83 V-King, 96 Mariner, 200 hp ff block 2.5 w/a 28p choppa
We gotta clean this liberal mess up, VOTE TRUMP TO MAGA!
Rebuild thread:
http://www.screamandfly.com/showthre...-it&highlight=
http://www.screamandfly.com/showthre...cs.&highlight=
Videos
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LakeFever liked this post
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04-03-2021, 09:51 AM #9
If I had those words in mind I would never needed to ask. Perfectly said thanks again I’ll be drilling for sure.
That said I am still wondering about one aspect. My plan is to laminate the three layers of coosa on a flat surface using weight and then once that’s cured lay the whole triple layer piece into the transom. Seeing as this will make the transom 2” thick is there any issue drilling the holes through the whole thing again? If no corebond comes through that thickness do I try and inject resin into the holes before laying the glass over?Hydrostream dreamin
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04-03-2021, 10:14 AM #10Screaming And Flying!
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Drill thru the whole thing. One every 6'' is enough. Use enough core bond and it will squeeze out the holes. If your worried about the holes being dry fill them with putty before you apply the trans pc.. Then observe the putty coming out of them. Most of the time you will see a spurt of putty and then a few "burps" of air followed by more putty. If using the notch trowel, go vertical on one surface and horizontal on the other. Don't be afraid to use plenty of putty. Whatever squeezes out can be used to fill gaps around the perimeter.
83 V-King, 96 Mariner, 200 hp ff block 2.5 w/a 28p choppa
We gotta clean this liberal mess up, VOTE TRUMP TO MAGA!
Rebuild thread:
http://www.screamandfly.com/showthre...-it&highlight=
http://www.screamandfly.com/showthre...cs.&highlight=
Videos
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04-03-2021, 11:54 AM #11
My kind of product. The more the merrier! We should be able to get this in in the early part of the week I’ll update the build thread with pics
Hydrostream dreamin
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tnelsmn liked this post
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