Mercury 2.0 exhaust chest porting

[Baker343]

Again you really need a lite loose hull with good set up to make these tuff little 2L sing. There's a lot of these blocks out there for cheap.
If you can find a 1st gen 76-77 I think, the chest work is done. We modified the exhaust exit to match up to 1 piece plates.
Have the cylinders checked and corrected. Find the correct heads and cut them to 26cc. Be careful torqueing the heads they tend to pull on the cylinders. Head studs may help? Most of the WH carbs will work just stay away from the small venturi 135 carbs. Get rid of the long tuner. 2.4 or Bobs works good. Raise the exhaust ports a little. 1.540 tends to work. Or find a 2nd gen block forget the exhaust chest work and do the same. Its a lot of work when you can find 2.4 but you can learn a lot grinding on these little motors.

[Capt.Insane-o]

Your not going to pull those old two liters out of round..the 2.4's yes.

[tnelsmn]

Again you really need a lite loose hull with good set up to make these tuff little 2L sing. There's a lot of these blocks out there for cheap.
If you can find a 1st gen 76-77 I think, the chest work is done. We modified the exhaust exit to match up to 1 piece plates.
Have the cylinders checked and corrected. Find the correct heads and cut them to 26cc. Be careful torqueing the heads they tend to pull on the cylinders. Head studs may help? Most of the WH carbs will work just stay away from the small venturi 135 carbs. Get rid of the long tuner. 2.4 or Bobs works good. Raise the exhaust ports a little. 1.540 tends to work. Or find a 2nd gen block forget the exhaust chest work and do the same. Its a lot of work when you can find 2.4 but you can learn a lot grinding on these little motors.

Would it be worth while to cut some off the stock tuner on a stock motor? Would I give up power anywhere? I have it all apart now and would be easy to slice a bit off before it goes together. Also considering taking a bit off the heads but I don't want to reach a point where I can't run pump gas. I plan to swap in new reeds for safety sake, but keeping the vertical front. I'll go to a 2.5 in the future and hang onto this for a back up, so I don't want to put a bunch in it.

[Capt.Insane-o]

Just use a 200 tuner.

[Baker343]

Would it be worth while to cut some off the stock tuner on a stock motor? Would I give up power anywhere? I have it all apart now and would be easy to slice a bit off before it goes together. Also considering taking a bit off the heads but I don't want to reach a point where I can't run pump gas. I plan to swap in new reeds for safety sake, but keeping the vertical front. I'll go to a 2.5 in the future and hang onto this for a back up, so I don't want to put a bunch in it.

If its for your Viking/175 2.0 I believe those tuners are different. If its the later tuner you can cut it some and even create a bell by splitting the end and rewelding. I saw you were a fabricator.
If you keep your compression around 140 I think your safe to run 92 which Mn probably has not Priusville Cali 91 max at 3.50 a gallon and climbing. Thanks Beijing Biden.
All the little things we did and you could do will help gain a small advantage.
I saw you have a nice shop at Coon Rapids FD.

[tnelsmn]

Baker, Yes it's that same engine combo. I believe it's a '80. I am a metal fabricator and could do that. Not sure I want to invest the time and headache into that. I'm sure that casting thats been being covered in exhaust and oil for 30 years will weld like dog sh*t.

Minnesota is trying desperately to be the California of the midwest. Governor is trying to force Cali vehicle emissions on us. Best gas I can get out of common pumps is non-oxy 91.

Yes, being able to bring projects to work with me is a nice perk of the job. I prefer to be productive with my down time.

[Baker343]

Your Viking rebuild is truly impressive and not normally achievable by normal folk.
You state your running a 80 175 2.0 on your Stream.
Look at the stamp numbers on the block, if its a 80 175 I think its a 2.4
Your effort to safe and restore that piece of family history is a labor of love and will provide endless performance and smiles.
My shop is in Watts

[tnelsmn]

Your Viking rebuild is truly impressive and not normally achievable by normal folk.
You state your running a 80 175 2.0 on your Stream.
Look at the stamp numbers on the block, if its a 80 175 I think its a 2.4
Your effort to safe and restore that piece of family history is a labor of love and will provide endless performance and smiles.
My shop is in Watts

Thank you, it's a true labor of love. I can't find any numbers on the block. These are the only numbers I can find and they're on the head.

[Capt.Insane-o]

82 or earlier. Lower cowl decal puts it 80-82.

[wolfgangb]

Make sure your big end bearings have metal cages, when you spool the motor beyond 6200rpm. Too many enthusiasts forget about this.
Good luck,
WolfgangB (South Africa)

[Merc 2.5]

Make sure your big end bearings have metal cages, when you spool the motor beyond 6200rpm. Too many enthusiasts forget about this.
Good luck,
WolfgangB (South Africa)

Did the old motors even have plastic cages then?

[NoRdO]

Did the old motors even have plastic cages then?

I just took apart an 80' 200, had fat rods and metal caged rod bearings...

[Merc 2.5]

I just took apart an 80' 200, had fat rods and metal caged rod bearings...

All my old 2.0 and 2.4 had metal , plastic cages come out with the 2.5 I thought. I know cranks have plastic cages but didn't think the rods did

[tnelsmn]

Lower main bearing.