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Thread: Brucato steam wheel
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01-10-2021, 04:34 PM #15000 RPM
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Brucato steam wheel
Question is this unit necessary to have if running a 300 drag witha brucato acu with 20cc heads ? Or just set the unit for proper fuel ratio for head applications. or is there a risk of running it lean with the steam wheel set up.
Last edited by hollywood120; 01-10-2021 at 04:42 PM.
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01-10-2021, 08:15 PM #2
Following
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01-15-2021, 10:01 AM #3
The advantage to using a steam wheel is you can make changes right from the seat without having to go into the box, richen or lean as desired that’s the Pros of having one
The Cons, you need to know how you’re changing your fuel curve as it’s easy to turn the knob and lean it to much and smoke your drag motor. They should be used with proper instrumentation ( egt) so you see what your changes are doing
Rick"Conklin Racing" M/E 0494
Sponsers,Conklin Racing, Speed-N-Sport Marine
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01-16-2021, 01:59 PM #45000 RPM
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Thanks for the reply the block all ready has the temp probes installed i just need to hook up the egt temp gauges. My next question what should be the egt reading in degrees at full throttle safely . i lake run the boat for miles .
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01-17-2021, 11:00 AM #5
Stream wheel is the piece you need if you want to get all of it safely. Air changes all the time and at the race track with cars and boost it always amazes me how much gains there are logging data and dialing in the tune up after each pass. Makes sense to have the same level of control with an awesome motor like a 300 drag
Hydrostream dreamin
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01-17-2021, 01:43 PM #6
More info the better. EGT is a good tool , but you have to keep in mind there are a lot of parameters that effect what you see. Late timing will make the motor less prone to detonation but show the exhaust temp climbing to dangerous levels. Add timing till the motor burns up and EGT will be lower all the way till it spikes crazy numbers from aluminum burning.
As an average .. 1050 to 1150* is pretty normal for a well tuned 2-stroke.
A good friend of mine finished up a Mustang / 450 inch SBC. If you look at the graph you can see he's on the gas early , popping and banging on the 2-step at 5000 rpm.
It comes off the brake clean, gets to 6000 where the converter catch's the motor and pulls it down 100 rpm or so (two second mark). Approaching the four second mark there is a dip in the climb rate. Was it spinning the tire a bit .. ?? My guess is when on the converter it's burning the fuel .. as it starts to free up a bit it's too rich.
After the shift it starts to tug the motor and start burning the fuel. With only a tach, there is no way to tell.
I like to have a G meter and driveshaft rpm to see if it loses momentum and if it's in the tire , converter or tune up related.
My friend does have an 02 sensor .. so lets see if it shows us anything ..
When he hits the gas, the motor goes fat 10-1 AFR from big squirters. While it's popping and banging on the two step the A/f ratio will be pretty crazy. It should be clean when it comes off the brake. His dips rich . High float level short bowl vents and a car that leaves at a 45* angle will slosh fuel out of the bowls vents and air bleeds and pull it down the throat of the carb. right when the motor is being tugged on the hardest. Instead of being above the 12-1 line .. it dives below. Time wasted (red vertical line) . Any dip in RPM climbing the hill shows the motor going fat. Right after the shift, and back to riding the converter , the motor starts burning the fuel and goes above the 12-1 line.
My advise to him was lower the floats , put a 2" tall hose on each vent , jet it down 2-4 numbers and go again. Naturally asperated, it should run 12.5 - 13 to 1 on the air fuel ratio with no big dives anywhere on the run.
What does that have to do with a steam wheel .. ??? Without real world info (as mentioned above ) your just twisting the wheel of fate ... don't "axe" me how I know ...
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