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  1. #1
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    Talking What kind of steering to use

    I'm redoing a 16 Avenger. it currently has no steering, I'm going to run a 140 hp on a 5 inch jack plate. What would be a good steering to use? Do I need to run duel cable steering? Most of the cable steering that I've looked at, don't say HP limit, or speed limit. Not that I really have any idea how fast this setup will run. I'm shooting for 60

  2. #2
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    I would spend your money on high performance hydraulic steering

  3. #3
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    do you really feel this setup would need hydralic steering? That's what I'm running on my checkmate with a pro max

  4. #4
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    If you want to raise the engine above the stock height some good dual cable or hyd would be safer. Engine low in the water a single would be ok. Most single cable steer systems are good for 45mph. Dual can go faster since it is redundant and less prone to fail all at once.

    83 V-King, 96 Mariner, 200 hp ff block 2.5 w/a 28p choppa
    We gotta clean this liberal mess up, VOTE TRUMP TO MAGA!
    Rebuild thread:
    http://www.screamandfly.com/showthre...-it&highlight=
    http://www.screamandfly.com/showthre...cs.&highlight=
    Videos

  5. #5
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    I'm running a 140 Chrysler on a 5 inch jack plate, and I plan on taking advantage of the low water pickup and run it as high as the setup wants. So I'll go with a duel cable system. I do think its funny that everyone is concern about steering breaking, but seem to fail to see that on the mercury's, there is only a small bolt holding the steering to the engine no matter what system your using, short of a true off shore side mounted system

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  7. #6
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    I used to have a V4 powered 16’ Baja. It took some driving at 64.

  8. #7
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    David, 64 mph, ok, maybe hyd steering should be a consideration, and definitely no single system. There isn't much of a defined pad on the bottom, I'm thinking i should build that up more to give it something more to ride on. I like having a project boat, you get to learn so much restoring it.

  9. #8
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    Steering torque is the main issue when raising the lower up near the surface. The "guts" of the cable steering is the problem area. I would prefer a rack and pinion vs rotary helm.

    83 V-King, 96 Mariner, 200 hp ff block 2.5 w/a 28p choppa
    We gotta clean this liberal mess up, VOTE TRUMP TO MAGA!
    Rebuild thread:
    http://www.screamandfly.com/showthre...-it&highlight=
    http://www.screamandfly.com/showthre...cs.&highlight=
    Videos

  10. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by Poky View Post
    I'm running a 140 Chrysler on a 5 inch jack plate, and I plan on taking advantage of the low water pickup and run it as high as the setup wants. So I'll go with a duel cable system. I do think its funny that everyone is concern about steering breaking, but seem to fail to see that on the mercury's, there is only a small bolt holding the steering to the engine no matter what system your using, short of a true off shore side mounted system
    Going to be a nice rig! With speed in the >60 mph region, it will also be a handful and require the best you can get/build. Whether dual cable or Seastar, you will still end up with that pesky single bolt. There have not only been a number of Mercury service bulletins regarding the recommended exchange intervals for that bolt, but also people going thru the cockpit sides of their STVs when the bolt broke. I personally witnessed some bad racing accidents caused by steering bolt failure. Single cylinder sidearm steering way to go. Replace tube in front of bracket connecting bolt with a 316L or better Carpenter 50 solid round - that will take the front clevis of your cylinder. Use 3/8" Aluminum plate to build counter-lever bolted to new longer adapter plate mounting bolts beneath cylinder head. Use the larger volume Seastar pump.
    How do I know? Busy building a similar project, with very special Force 4 cylinder on a wooden 16`racing runabout replica with a modern bottom. Expected speed ~80 mph. As this is going to be a race boat, I returned to ss wire rope and dual pulley system (Formula 1/Champ system). If you want to know more, send PM. BTW, I will be using the Chrysler Type A lower unit, which seems to be what you have under your 140 hp.
    Always willing to assist a fellow boater.
    Rgds,
    Wolfgang

  11. #10
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    I'm just running the std Chrysler lower unit with the intake on the side of the bullet. My father was chief engineer at Chrysler Marine in Hartford back in the day. So I know of the racing 150 and the their lower units and the aftermarket ones that followed. But that path is way out of my $$$ ability. My plan it to run a stock 140 until I can get everything working and then build the power head with light weight pistons and high compression. I've wanted to run EFI on it as a fun project too. Another thing I plan on doing is to move the power trim motor inside of the hull.

  12. #11
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    Yeah all those heavy duty and dual systems and they all come down to that one little bolt.

    The bushing provided on the hydraulic systems at the point does seem pretty good though.

  13. #12
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    That one little bolt is not your standard bolt. Using a standard grade 5 bolt is a recipe for disaster. Gazillion units out there performing well with the proper bolt.

    Rock
    Team Junk

    No sparkling wiggles in here, only dump truck grinches.

    "Screamin Heathen"

  14. #13
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    but its still just one grade 8 bolt keeping you going straight ish over water and high speed. Just something fun to think about. Back on subject, I do have a question about mounting my Chrysler to the jack plate. I have a newer clamp with top and lower bolts, but I wondering about the top of the C clamp, its designed with the idea of it sitting on the transom, and now that 3 inch area of support isn't there. Should I add some kind of support?

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