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  1. #1
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    MAD efi 3.2L 15' 'Midsection?

    I've been searching the Technical forum for info on building a 15'' midsection using the MAD efi exhaust housing.
    Is there a write up about the process anywhere? Can someone chime in on the process and the parts needed to accomplish the 15'' conversion of a Mercury 3.2L engine?

    Thank you in advance!

    Stoney

  2. #2
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    I don't have details on this build but someone has already done all the hard work for you if you can afford to go this route Click image for larger version. 

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  3. #3
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    I have done a few of them. The can is 1750.00 (2250.00 with the bodywork done and powder coated "Todd's new source makes them perfect"). Then you need to either have you stock clamp assy. and trim cylinder shortened (my last one was around 3200.00 with all new bushings and the slop stop preload modification done by Chaz-he makes them perfect) or you can buy a 15" 2.5 offshore mid and use it (these have an additional 2 inches of setback built into them) and are bringing around 4K (most of them need to be gone through with new bushings etc.). Then you need to have the drive shaft shortened (have it cut and re-welded using the stock mercury splines--don't have new splines cut into the shaft after you cut it). Then you need to have the shift shaft shortened (make sure you mark it so that it doesn't get clocked).

    You can use stock 300XS cowls or go to the 300X/ProMax cowls like most do. Steering choice is also an option and you will need to get a wingplate made for a 300X or 300 ProMax, an XS plate will not work on these MADEFI exhaust housings.

    Call Todd D. at MAD EFI, he does them in his sleep and knows every part number needed in his head "its kinda sick how much he has going on in his head" lol....great guy though

    Joe

  4. Thanks Markus thanked for this post
  5. #4
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    Buy the Tennessee engine and swap powerheads.

    Either keep both engines or sell the resulting 20 inch 300x.
    Markus' Performance Boating Links:
    www.toastedmarshmallow.com/performance

  6. #5
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    Joe

    Thanks for the reply, I did talk with Todd the other day. He was talking about what I needed and different way to go as I was writing it down but by the time I got of the phone with him I was still unsure of the best way to go.

    I am starting from scratch, no motor yet!
    I got the MAD parts and pricing figured out!
    I got the driveshaft and shift shaft modification figured out!

    If I purchase a 20'' 300 xs with a single ram mid what parts will I need to convert the mid to a 15''?

    Buying a complete 15'' mid for 4k and building from there seems a very expensive way to go.

    Thanks for your input!

    Stoney

  7. #6
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    I saw that motor!

    I think there is too much involved with shipping/traveling to get and the cost to go that route.

    Thanks Stoney

  8. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by JPEROG View Post
    I have done a few of them. The can is 1750.00 (2250.00 with the bodywork done and powder coated "Todd's new source makes them perfect"). Then you need to either have you stock clamp assy. and trim cylinder shortened (my last one was around 3200.00 with all new bushings and the slop stop preload modification done by Chaz-he makes them perfect) or you can buy a 15" 2.5 offshore mid and use it (these have an additional 2 inches of setback built into them) and are bringing around 4K (most of them need to be gone through with new bushings etc.). Then you need to have the drive shaft shortened (have it cut and re-welded using the stock mercury splines--don't have new splines cut into the shaft after you cut it). Then you need to have the shift shaft shortened (make sure you mark it so that it doesn't get clocked).

    You can use stock 300XS cowls or go to the 300X/ProMax cowls like most do. Steering choice is also an option and you will need to get a wingplate made for a 300X or 300 ProMax, an XS plate will not work on these MADEFI exhaust housings.

    Call Todd D. at MAD EFI, he does them in his sleep and knows every part number needed in his head "its kinda sick how much he has going on in his head" lol....great guy though

    Joe
    Thank you for the kind word J.P. (there goes ticket sales) LOL

    Stoneman , he's telling you the truth. There is always more to it than it seems.

    Drive shaft , shift shaft , water tube. I like to use a new stainless water tube and Mickey Mouse ear upper mount that Todd sells. The plastic ones will and do break.
    You'll need to cut an inner can or buy / build a tuner.
    Either way you go , you will need a "shorty" swivel bracket , tiller arm / pin .
    Cylinder , side pins , upper pin , side brackets and hoses.
    Like Joe said, a hand full of bushings , thrust washers and most add a "slop-stop" type update.
    A solid (mount) exhaust adapter plate and a few gaskets.
    A bunch of hardware .. studs , bolts , nuts , washer's ..
    It add's up quick ..

  9. #8
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    Any which way you look at it its going to be a expensive project. Buying complete motor and shipping shouldn't be no more than $400
    You can ask guy if he will sell without powerhead or buy it and run it.
    300x are great motors if you leave them alone and run them just as mercury build them.
    Sometimes doing projects on your own looks cheap, can be cheaper but alot of people fail to factor in their time which if you put a dollar amount next to it, it Sometimes comes out cheaper to buy someone else project.
    Buying a good 300xs $12k depending on year and might not come with sportmaster for that price. If you do still have to get rid of midsection maybe $800 resale. Finding 300xs powerhead only good luck with that and mercury sells them for i think $10k
    Just my 2cents

  10. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by Chaz View Post
    Thank you for the kind word J.P. (there goes ticket sales) LOL

    Stoneman , he's telling you the truth. There is always more to it than it seems.

    Drive shaft , shift shaft , water tube. I like to use a new stainless water tube and Mickey Mouse ear upper mount that Todd sells. The plastic ones will and do break.
    You'll need to cut an inner can or buy / build a tuner.
    Either way you go , you will need a "shorty" swivel bracket , tiller arm / pin .
    Cylinder , side pins , upper pin , side brackets and hoses.
    Like Joe said, a hand full of bushings , thrust washers and most add a "slop-stop" type update.
    A solid (mount) exhaust adapter plate and a few gaskets.
    A bunch of hardware .. studs , bolts , nuts , washer's ..
    It add's up quick ..
    I can appreciate the statement "There is always more to it than it seems"

    "It add's up quick"



  11. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by stoneman View Post
    I saw that motor!

    I think there is too much involved with shipping/traveling to get and the cost to go that route.
    Compare the outlays and what you can sell the leftovers for side by side in both cases - I think you will come out ahead that way.

    __PRESENT
    Markus' Performance Boating Links:
    www.toastedmarshmallow.com/performance

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