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06-30-2021, 04:29 AM #46
Wow, that’s a ton of work. Never seen anything like it. Hats off for the innovation
Hydrostream dreamin
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NZ Sidewinder thanked for this post
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06-30-2021, 06:27 AM #47Screaming And Flying!
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Very cool project. Making your own parts is so time consuming.
83 V-King, 96 Mariner, 200 hp ff block 2.5 w/a 28p choppa
We gotta clean this liberal mess up, VOTE TRUMP TO MAGA!
Rebuild thread:
http://www.screamandfly.com/showthre...-it&highlight=
http://www.screamandfly.com/showthre...cs.&highlight=
Videos
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07-01-2021, 02:16 AM #48
Today I finished the wings and started back on the lower Unit.
The water feed tubes are tacked up.
The pipes almost meet in the middle and are coupled with sturdy rubber hose.
Also tapped the feed tube holes.
Someone at Mercury must have been thinking of us when then dimensioned that water gallery.
The final finishing of the epoxy on the unit can wait till last now.Last edited by NZ Sidewinder; 07-01-2021 at 02:47 AM.
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07-26-2021, 04:21 AM #49
Its been slow work but Im trying to just take my time and get it right.
Ive been making tools as well and putting the box together with old components just for practice and to work out where the traps are.
Tonight I worked out that a bit of heat into the bullet with a heat gun makes the main forward cone go in really easy.
No hitting required just a few taps on the tool.
I cut the inner race of the forward gear off with a grinder or at least ground the race down to paper thin on two opposite sides then used the puller to pull it while heating the thin parts with the heat gun.
In my early days I cut lots of these bearing races off with the oxy /acetylene torch.
Not a job for the faint hearted.
My pinion gauge tool locates on 3 places, the rear carrier ring, the main carrier ring and the forward bearing needle roller and also in the gear shift spigot journal if there is no gear in place.
The Carrier is bushed down to 32mm for the gauge shaft
The gauge is an adjustable 3/8 UNF bolt with lock nut.
The head of the bolt is polished spherical
Its set at a radius of half the 2.575inch.
Currently this box with a new drive shaft thrust bearing has 20 thou pinion clearance with a 30 thou shim so I need a 35 thou shim
Hope there is such a shim.
Ive got a good offshore midsection for my Promax but am going to put some serious work into designing a way to use the one piece adapter on the steel motor.
In the mean time Ill run the fisho leg and 2 piece.
Im thinking a Pan plate with no dump holes in it but just a small barbed hose fitting through the plate into the one piece and a hose that goes out through the case maybe with a flow regulator on it.
The entire one piece dump cavity with drain holes blocked could then become a poppet cavity with just one poppet drain .(dry Stacked)
The water pump could be cooled directly from a lower water feed tube, maybe 1/8 jet in through the lower case.
Looks like Ill have to either pull my power head off again to measure the pan (cowl plate) up so I can create a .dxf file to laser cut a modified one or try and borrow a plate to measure up. (big job)
Ill measure up the gaskets in that area as well and get them CNC cut here as well.
Its a bloody long way to get stuff from the States and Im learning real fast that boat shops dont really want to deal in parts for 20yr old Pro Max's.
Note
When a pinion gauge like this is used you will find out real easy if your box is bent as the shaft will bind.Last edited by NZ Sidewinder; 07-26-2021 at 03:40 PM.
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07-28-2021, 05:31 AM #50
Today I had a win
I bid on an Optimax Lower unit with a 25inch 13 tooth top spline.
I bid 400 buck thinking it might contain some usable parts but then again it might be junk.
I was the only bidder and won the on line auction.
The unit arrived today and it turned out to be a mint V6 lower full of good condition parts.
Just a C4 but ill put a 3.0L carrier in it and add a cone etc.
I have 4 now.
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LakeFever liked this post
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08-08-2021, 01:59 AM #51
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08-16-2021, 12:59 AM #52
Today I got a few new bearings to use and also made a seal retainer .
These 3.0L carriers come with threaded holes in two opposite webs.
They look like 3/16 fine ?
They look ridiculously small for pulling with so I reckon they must be there for a seal retainer.
Today I also spoke with my gasket maker and he reckons I could use 1.5mm (.060inch) graphite paper reinforced with stainless steel mesh.
He reckons his CNC cutters will cut it easy so thats really cool.
He will cut a Cowl pan pattern and some powerhead gaskets from .3mm paper as a trial for me to test then do the real thing.
The pan plate will be cut from 304 ss.
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08-19-2021, 08:20 PM #53
Ive been testing propshafts for straightness and had some surprises.
One that wasn't a surprise was an Alpha shaft that I got out of a damaged complete unit that hit a rock.
Its shaft was bent .010 through the carrier bearing which is more or less the mid point.
The other 3 were outboard shafts and all were within .0005 at the Carrier bearing journal but the surprise was that the prop spline shafts of two of them were way out of concentric with the fat part at the thrust washer shoulder position
One was .0045 inch, one was .0012 and the good one was .0005.
This is strange in that between centers the bearing journals are fine but the prop shafts are not straight.
Is this typical?
Also found that the gear select pin that goes inside the propshaft was different in the big bearing case.
It has a double length pin with a spring inside as well as double indent plugs and double retainer springs on the dog clutch.
I dropped an indent ball from another shaft on the floor and while looking for it found an old 2 piece exhaust plate gasket hiding under the bench so spent a morning during lockdown drawing it up in CAD for CNC cutting.
These ones are very complex to draw and that edge shaping is a real headache.
Update
I put the worst shaft back on the jig to try and get to the bottom of the issues.
The prop spline and thread dial up fine (.0015) so its just the prop spline shaft itself thats not concentric.
The spline and thread are machined true to the fat part.
This means that this shaft and others like it are out of balance but I doubt that it matters much.Last edited by NZ Sidewinder; 08-20-2021 at 02:01 AM.
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08-25-2021, 09:55 PM #54
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08-26-2021, 07:25 AM #55
Impressive piece, your a dedicated man
Hydrostream dreamin
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NZ Sidewinder thanked for this post89LASER liked this post
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08-26-2021, 04:18 PM #56
Thanks.
Next one will have the same terminator type stainless steel skeleton but I'll try and pick up the water from the very lowest part of the underside of the bullet.
The removable bullet tip will remain as a pickup option though.
Those bullet tips are dead easy to make .
I just cast a cylinder of epoxy in a lid from aerosol can with the wall extended a little with aluminium tape.
This one has a 10mm thread tapped deep into the casting but will try casting the thread next time
The feed holes are drilled while the epoxy is still in the mold and the profile and locating shoulder are created by spinning the casting on a stud in the tapped center hole.
I spin it in a battery drill while shaping it with a 36 grit sanding disc on a 5 inch angle grinder.
Very easy and fun job.
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08-29-2021, 03:03 AM #57
Started another lower unit today.
It takes about 2 hours to fold up and weld the spine water duct.
This one will take a fraction of the time that the last one took.
I found a mint set of non ratcheting gears for it but will investigate whether I can use a ratcheting clutch with those gears.
The drive shaft I'm going to use has a 13 tooth top spline so that needs to come off and be replaced.
The weather is warming up now so I'll be able to get back to the hull.
We are currently in a lock down which is a boat builders paradise.Last edited by NZ Sidewinder; 08-31-2021 at 03:29 AM.
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08-30-2021, 04:10 AM #58
Today's work.
This low water pickup is slightly different than the last one.
Its lower and larger, hopefully not too large and hopefully the water flow wont eddie in a turn.
The bullet nose shown is just a wooden dummy and not the correct profile.
Importantly that little stainless inlet duct behind the bullet point will get a small stainless flange tomorrow so that
The polyester filler can go behind the flange so that there isnt a join in materials that high pressure water can penetrate and possibly de laminate.
That point screws on and off so I can revert to a conventional bullet point water intake if this one doesn't work.
Overall this lower will be 3/8 inch longer than the one in post #53
In case anyone is wondering how I get that threaded rod straight and true to the center line of the case, I have a mandrel that slides down the inside of the case into the gear selector journal.
A 8.5mm long drill fits through the mandrel and drills from inside to outside.
Then the tap goes from the inside out ways as well.
The thread is sealed with Locktite 577 and a nut.
Later on in the process the unit is held at an angle in a vice so that poured epoxy creates a 45 deg ramp that defects water from the horizontal to the vertical and this epoxy buries the lock nut on the thread.
IMO Mercs that work hard should also look hard and for this reason I dont really like the Alien Cowls so today I brought a complete cowl setup to restore.
Ill set it up to fit my Pro Max and overall with the offshore leg and make believe sporty lower it will at least look like a race MercLast edited by NZ Sidewinder; 08-30-2021 at 04:41 AM.
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LakeFever liked this post
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08-30-2021, 10:36 PM #59
The skeleton is almost done now.
Just the 1/2 inch socket to be fitted for outfeed to the pump.
This nose is a dummy wooden one.
I sandblast the stainless then use polyester Auto filler as a butter layer then epoxy over the poly.
This works well on the Aluminium also.
We get out of lockdown tomorrow so Ill be able to pick up a few bits and pieces to finish it.
Ive found that polyester Bog has much better adhesion to prepped Aluminium than Epoxy does.
The poly bog I use has the glass reinforcing in it.
Ill probably add a stainless vertical jail bar to that intake throat.Last edited by NZ Sidewinder; 08-30-2021 at 10:44 PM.
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09-04-2021, 02:41 AM #60
Here is that skeleton with some flesh on it.
This one is slightly different to the original in the background.
It has a more aggressive and lower water pickup and is slightly finer in shape.
It will get one top layer of Epoxy cloth over the walls of the Gearbox and carrier case and also an epoxy cloth layer from the leading edge of the crescent back to the trailing edge.
These are cheap and easy units in the context of something to do over lock down but in the real world they dont really stack up price wise.
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