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  1. #16
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    Today I started getting the stringers sorted.
    The Keel Stringer has been joined using 12mm ply epoxied fish plates, the next two out are the same and the next two stop at the 8ft mark.
    All will be fully encapsulated except for the upper edge which will be glasses after the stringers have been machined down to a finished height for the floor to glue to.
    Each stringer sits in a strake so Ill lay extra glass in the strake recesses and out over the hull.
    The Hull bottom will end up 1/4 inch thick which is heavy but it wont break.
    Click image for larger version. 

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  3. #17
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    Ive made some progress now.
    The stringers were a massive job and next time Ill use a composite instead of encapsulated plywood.
    Ive used a lot of Urethane adhesive and also epoxy in this build.
    The Urethane is a very good adhesive/cove/ gap filler.
    My plan is to shift the drivers position back at least 14 inches and extend the steering column.
    Id estimate that 150hrs went into the stringers and floor alone and I still need to tip the boat over and fabricate/blueprint the bottom.
    Im aiming for a 100mph river boat and 70mph offshore boat.
    Click image for larger version. 

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    The stringers have fish plates at the joins that are polyester encapsulated, epoxied on then coved and glassed in.
    Keel stringer has fishplate reinforcing over the step and there are lots of cleats on the stringers for extra floor gluing.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    Click image for larger version. 

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    Now Im doing the small fiddly bits of topside finishing including glassing all the floor edges and seams.
    Ill also add a pair of sidewall knees midships.

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  5. #18
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    Stern corners back in place now.
    There is a lot of structural glass and then fiddly details in the stern of this boat and it's going to be a relief to get out of the Hull and start work from the outside.
    Having said that Ive now noted that the fore deck has some stress cracks across it from years of pounding on Lake Taupo's harsh chop.
    Ill need to put a bulkhead up there and this can also support the bow flares which have been worrying me.
    There is still 3/8 inch of 1708 mat to go on the outside of the transom yet.
    Most of the structural connections including the floor and stringers and Coves use Urethane or Epoxy.
    Click image for larger version. 

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    Last edited by NZ Sidewinder; 02-21-2021 at 05:39 AM.

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  7. #19
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    Basically the Hull is fully glassed now with just the bottom to finish the Pad and blueprint.
    Then full paint etc.
    The whole time Ive been dreading weighing the beast and today the 300kg crane scales arrived.
    I hung th hull from the rafters and put the scales first in the bow sling which read 156kg (343lb)
    Then in one stern corner and that was 139.5kg (307lb)x2
    So thats a total bare hull weight of 439.5kg (967lb)
    Heavy.
    Shes going to need some serious hp

    I also glasses up all the holes in the dash with new encapsulated backing ply.
    The part where the steering column goes got 1 inch ply fully glassed in really strong so I can put a steering extension tube on and push the drivers seat well astern.
    This also keeps the drivers thigh bones (Femur) well clear of the lower edge of the dash.
    Ill never forget rebuilding an aluminium Jet boat hull for a bloke who insisted he put the unit back in himself.
    He stuffed up the nozzle linkage or the bucket pivot and first corner in the river on the try out the steering jammed and he hit the bank at 55mph.
    That bottom edge of the dash snapped both his femurs.
    Im thinking 250hp 2 stroke Merc on a bracket.Click image for larger version. 

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ID:	483385
    Last edited by NZ Sidewinder; 03-03-2021 at 02:01 AM.

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  9. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by
    Shes going to need some serious hp

    Im thinking 250hp 2 stroke Merc on a bracket.[ATTACH=CONFIG
    483385[/ATTACH]
    I don't know how they Rate Hulls down under.....here in the States I had to fight like hell to get the 2012 Merc Optimax 150 hung on the back of mine.

    The shop wasn't going to do it, insurance wasn't going to cover the boat....One day the guy in the shop crawled around with a light and he could just make out Max HP 150 on the ID Tag.......

    Here's some pic's for Motivation now get back to work.







    Get a 22-23 Pitch 4 Blade SS prop....the 3 blade drove like a school bus on a Ford I Beam Suspension and I couldn't get it to plane....Rode Rough in even the slightest chop so the GF shut me down at 25 MPH.

    4 Blade pop out of the water, flies flat and take all the chop you can through at it....Even my own Wake and it throws a hell of a wake.



    Karsten
    Last edited by Karsten; 03-03-2021 at 03:08 PM.

  10. #21
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    Hi Karsten
    Nice tidy boat you have.
    Down here there are no rules about boats other than needing to be 15yr old to drive a boat capable of more than 5 knots.
    Biggest problem here are Jet skis exceeding 5 knot close to shore.
    Insurance is expensive for boats now and I insure for theft only.
    This Sidewinder/Panther started out as a vintage restoration but quickly became a hot rod type project in that below the water line she is no longer a Sidewinder.
    Down here these boats were often raced off shore with twin 150s or single 150s but were not a good boat to push fast with a single engine.
    So I put a stepped pad in this one that will have side Dams that also add longitudinal edges too keep her straight and true at high speed.
    Basically a copy of a famous NZ offshore race boat named Chindit.
    Here is a photo of Chindit and also a link to a Utube Vid that makes my heart race every time I watch it.
    My next build will be a copy of Chindit
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UfCBBNbZn3A

    Click image for larger version. 

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  11. #22
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    Today I put the boat back on the trailer for a better working height to finish the transom glass.
    This is raw 1708 and it will get straightedge sanded and then Chop strand and Faired.
    Ive added a mock up photo of the approximate profile of the Pad.
    The tubes are urethaned in and are liners for the bung holes.
    Once the Trasom and well are tidied up Ill turn the Hull over and start on the Bottom.Click image for larger version. 

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ID:	483768Click image for larger version. 

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  13. #23
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    Your build is coming out excellent! Why add the csm after straight edging the transom?
    Hydrostream dreamin

  14. #24
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    Im not an expert in Fiber Glass but the general rule is to start with CSM and finish with CSM as the DB pattern can show through the paint.

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  16. #25
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    Sounds good to me, more glass is better than less glass
    Hydrostream dreamin

  17. #26
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    Lol
    More is better sometimes but I reckon Im pushing the envelope with this transom.
    Here is a core from a bung hole.
    Click image for larger version. 

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  19. #27
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    This is the old motor that came with this boat.
    Its been laying in the grass for a few months and I just couldn't work out how to stow it so I could easily cannibalize it before it goes to the dump.
    So I filled this IBC with water (1 ton) and hug the thing on it aided by a load binder.
    It could easily have a ply bench top and a basic timber mounting bracket but this works fine for now.
    Even twins could be worked on or stored on one IBC or even Quads.
    This motor weighs say 330lb but Im sure 500lb is doable with some small mods or additions.
    one thing is for sure, 500lb wont tip the 2200lb IBC over and water is still cheap.Click image for larger version. 

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  21. #28
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    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	stern veiw.jpg 
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ID:	484861Today she got tipped over and I wasted no time in diving in.
    It was a good feeling to grind down through the old hull to find the new Pad/TunnelClick image for larger version. 

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    Last edited by NZ Sidewinder; 04-02-2021 at 02:19 AM.

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  23. #29
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    Click image for larger version. 

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    Today I spent a few hours surveying the hull bottom.
    What a shambles.
    Looking at the transom from the stern once the Hull had been leveled to the same datum as I used to do the inside work I wasn't really surprised that the optical level (dumpy level) showed that the starboard chine was lower at the transom than the port chine but the starboard strakes were higher at the transom than their opposites on the port side.
    Basically the mold was pissed.
    The hull has huge trailer Hooks out at the third strakes.
    Also as shown in the photo by the yellow line the keel has a large bump in it near the entry 3/8 inch.
    Is this likely to be a design feature??
    I intend to recreate a knief edge vee from the trailer winch eye through to the step.
    Looking at the Hull in its original form, it was a brave crew that took these boats anywhere near 70mph.
    They were said to porpoise in the turns or not turn at all as well as get wobbly in a straight line.
    It's all there in plain sight.
    But even Steve Austin was just a regular guy until they threw 6 million bucks at him.

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  25. #30
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    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	base plate.jpg 
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ID:	484989Ive decided to put embedded stainless female threads into the flat pad area and form the tunnel with a Stainless or Aluminium sheet that fixes to the hull with countersunk bronze machine screws.
    This way I can bolt on a variety of Hull forms by attaching them to the metal base.
    In a stock form the plate will have a Dam along each edge as shown in green.
    Once this is on, a few different forms can be added or subtracted such as a continuous Vee with dams or a delta Pad with Dams or even a radius Vee with dams.
    If I want to race this boat in one particular racing organisation then I must not use a step in the particular class that would best suit this boat.
    So for those races Id bolt in a delta Vee Pad which would have the same transom exit position but start at the top of the apex of the step.
    Green is the metal base shape and what it would generally run.
    Last edited by NZ Sidewinder; 04-05-2021 at 06:43 AM.

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