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  1. #91
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    Ive been busy racing my mini boat and trying to persuade my 19ft 6 Cyclone 225hp not to kill me but am managing to make some progress on the sidewinder.
    The bottom is coming true now and a few more days will see it ready for an epoxy skim coat.
    Its 250lbs overweight so Ive decided to make her a single seat center steer.
    Boom that's 220lb shaved off the weight so we are back in the race.
    Haven't decided whether to put a 2.5 200hp on it and circuit race in a restricted class or go 250hp 3.0L unrestricted on my 18.7 inch 3L mid section.

    Circuit racing the 30hp mini boats is a lot of fun.
    Its mostly kids and they are ruthless competitors.
    Typically the start boat will gather us all up from where we are milling and in a sweeping turn have us assemble abeam of him in our pole positions as he runs us down the straight toward the start finish buoy.
    The deal is that we are supposed to maintain our pole position lines around the first two Buoys but juniors make their own rules .
    For them its just like a motocross hole shot, Chaos.
    Im 200lbs fully suited up and doing 45mph.
    Most of them are 90lbs and doing near 50mph so I usually get to watch the races from the rear although occasionally Ill sneak through the inside and manage to block most of them for a place.
    Im running a 30hp Parsun with a 21 inch 3 blade with the propshaft at pad level at about 5750 rpm.
    45mph is over 20% slip so I probably could do better.

  2. #92
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    Click image for larger version. 

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    Slowly but surely she is straightening out.
    The strakes are becoming sharp and straight rather than wobbly and rounded.
    Some of the Hooks are the result of the bare skin rebuild but there are also plenty of production hooks in the Mold.
    Im really looking forward to racing this boat but will warn the other drivers that it's likely to leave very deep holes around the Buoys.

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  4. #93
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    Id say the Sidewinder has lost her 225hp but I have a 200hp 2.4L for her.
    Here is a Photo of the 225 Pro Max racing.
    She is good for 80mph but best thing about that boat is it corners like its on rails.
    Note the starboard Pee tell tale.
    Its reassuring to start the motor as see that.
    The cooling system as set out in earlier posts seems to work well although I have had some concerns about low temps at WOT.
    Each cylinder head has a temp prob up top ant the engine will idle at 140degF but slowly drop toward 100F at speed then raise again to 140F once back at low speed.
    Water pressure at WOT is around 25psi.
    Ive scratched my head a lot over this as I cannot see how my One piece with its mods can behave any differently than a 2 piece plate as it is basically a 2 piece.
    Ive come to the conclusion that these temps are normal so I just give it death.
    6500rpm is what it races at.
    I have blocked one of the 3 low water pick up holes though as I dont think 25psi is necessary.
    each hole is 5/16 and there are now 2.
    Ive removed the warning beeper from the remote and put it in a cavity above the dash where it sounds very loud and also have two red blue flashing warning lights.
    Ive also realised that the offshore leg adds low down weight (Ballast) and when the big fat Alien cowl is off its obvious there isnt really as much weight up top as can appear compared to whats hanging from the clamp down.
    Propshaft is 2 1/4 below pad which is where these boats like it.
    I could raise it but cornering would probably suffer.
    This boat races in a class of 300hp boats which lose ground to me in the turns so its an advantage im keen to retain.


    Click image for larger version. 

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    Last edited by NZ Sidewinder; 04-28-2022 at 06:06 AM.

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  6. #94
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    I've decided to use a 3.0L on this boat and have been building a midsection for a while.
    She is heavy and 225 or 250hp will be required.
    This lower is from a 4 stroke and runs 1.92 gears which is a bit low but it will do for a start.
    I'll put a short drive shaft in it the same length as an Alpha but with double bearings, and use a coupler.

    The midsection is 18.700 inch and was to have an offshore type snout added, but I've changed my mind on that.
    It would require me to drill holes in the trunk, and that is probably not wise, so it will exhaust through the bullet.
    Click image for larger version. 

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    The 3.0L engine is now an attractive option in NZ where 2.5stuff is really sort after.

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  8. #95
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    Changed my mind and she's getting a 2.5L
    A 1991 2.5 turned up at my place begging to be rebuilt.
    Boats nowClick image for larger version. 

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    Last edited by NZ Sidewinder; 09-19-2022 at 04:25 AM.

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  10. #96
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    Today was a good day.
    This 2.5L 200 is a1991 f block, and I pulled all the liners out because two were buggered and they were all exhaust slotted.
    I also pulled all the rusty old liners out of an old block that's been laying around here for ages.
    I cleaned them up and measured the ports.
    Something just didn't add up.
    They were high, and the two smaller boost ports were wide.
    Then I went out to the scrap heap and retrieved the block for a closer look, and sure enough, the exhaust chest was like a promax one and buried under the paint was ff.
    I hauled it inside and sat the f front half on the pins and it dropped home mint.
    I'll put a crank in it and blue the dowells to see what the fit is actually like, but by hook or by crook, those two halves are going together.

    Then as if by magic, these +.020 1991 Pistons showed up.
    Na not really magic, I figured I'd need either a set of std or plus twenties so got a set of each.
    These days I often buy two sets of everything as my biggest fear is lack of supply.


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    Last edited by NZ Sidewinder; 09-20-2022 at 04:44 AM.

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  12. #97
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    This is my first try at chest porting.
    Took 2 hours.
    There is a lot of work at the exit port and I reckon a bloke could easy come unstuck there.
    I've left some meat there because there is a spot where it could get real thin.Click image for larger version. 

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  14. #98
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    It does get thin on the inside of the dump. I did the same to my block and two piece plate. I thought about using jb-weld on the backside of the dump on the block and the plate to beef it up. Was thinking clamp a flat plate over wet jb with parchment paper and then use right stuff to seal it during assembly. Now im thinking the promarine reinforced base gasket with some right stuff might be enough on its own.
    Hydrostream dreamin

  15. #99
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    I erred on the side of caution and left that ramp out of number 5 thicker over the hump, (steeper) and then sloped it down to the exit port full size.
    In effect, sacrificing some cross-section size.
    I'd say the floor of the chest at that thin point is now around 3/16 - 7/32
    Then, the next issue was the rim size of the actual port.
    I put an accurate pan plate on the block and scribed it then made sure that I didn't cross that line.
    The base gaskets from memory are a little concerning.
    I get some 2.5L gaskets cnc cut but that one isn't able to be copied because of the reinforcing in it.
    I have made the .dxf file to have one Lazer cut though and could make that bit wider.
    A painted or coated copper gasket might work.
    Last edited by NZ Sidewinder; 09-21-2022 at 03:19 PM.

  16. #100
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    I did the same i scribed to the baseplate and did not go further. I considered spray copper gasket as well. The base gasket i have is a nice unit it’s reinforced with steel sandwiched in the middle. Promarine part number 2693A
    Hydrostream dreamin

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  18. #101
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    To circuit race this boat within the rules I need to cancel out the step.
    So I'm bolting in a delta vee plug
    I've epoxy embedded 5/8 unc anchors that have 3/8 unc internal threads for bolts to thread into.
    These will hold whatever pad system I want to use.

    Also picked up a Spinilli prop, a long way from home.
    The Spinilli came from Australia and was used on a 300hp small shaft race Merc of some kind for ski racing

    I was perplexed when I got it as the thrust washer end doesn't appear to be machined at all.
    Also the bore at the front end was 1.062.
    With regard the rough cast thrust surface I blued and lightly lapped it against a chrome thrust washer and it showed a nice 3 point contact which was a surprise.
    The 1.062 bore was a concern so I made a 35 thou wall thicknes bush for it, which works well.
    To run it on the surface, just relying on the nut to hold the prop firm against the thrust washer and therefor true, would be a big ask IMO.
    probably asking for a snapped shaft?



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    Last edited by NZ Sidewinder; 09-30-2022 at 04:03 PM.

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  20. #102
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    I been really busy saving the world guys and doing some other important boat stuff but haven't abandoned the Sidewinder.
    Today she got a coat of epoxy undercoat.Click image for larger version. 

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    Here are some pics of what I've been up to.
    That's an unraced 15 inch nitro stinger.
    Doing up a 15 nitro Hustler as well.
    Been racing a 225 promax a bit and winning here and there.
    They are a mighty motor, too good to race.
    Last edited by NZ Sidewinder; 04-09-2023 at 03:00 AM.

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