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04-14-2021, 08:01 PM #31
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LakeFever, Laseraddict liked this post
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04-15-2021, 09:58 PM #32'78 Hydrostream Viking/'98 225 ProMax
Restoration: https://www.screamandfly.com/showthr...Viking-rebuild
Pictures: https://www.flickr.com/photos/152974...57708863869223
Videos: https://www.youtube.com/tnels
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NZ Sidewinder, Laseraddict liked this post
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04-16-2021, 01:48 AM #33
I weighed the Merc today
In 25 inch form with prop and oil injection = 192 kg (423lb)
In 20 inch form with prop and oil injection = 182kg (401lb)
1983 140hp Evinrude apples for apples about 150kg(330lb)
When I saw this beast I thought it would sink my boat but there really is nothing in it between the big Merc and the puny Evinrude.
Just over one and a half tot tanks of gas in weight but at least 100 real HP.
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tnelsmn, Laseraddict liked this post
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04-16-2021, 02:07 AM #34
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04-16-2021, 02:58 AM #35
Great to see.
They look very similar and it would be interesting to see the point at the bow where the chines meet.
If the chines mismatch at the bow then the boats are genetically related.
The step and Pad are going to incorporate some unique features.
The pad will have a aluminium or stainless liner shaped like ] that.
Edges down.
Also embedded and epoxied in the step and pad will be threads for various hull forms.
eg
One race class doesn't allow steps so a delter pad will be bolted in
That this stage the metal plate and vertical dams will stay in place no matter what hull form is in place.
Even if a V is bolted in the plate and dams remain.
The motor will hang on a 10 or 12 inch set back bracket and the pad and supports will extend back that same amount so as to in effect lengthen the Hull and retain forward/ aft balance.
The Keel V forward of the step will likely be may sharper.Last edited by NZ Sidewinder; 04-16-2021 at 03:10 AM.
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04-16-2021, 03:50 AM #36
I read about your idea of the bolt on add ons. Interesting bit of design work.
I take the ] will have the edges as a runners ? Sort of tunnel like ?
I have a rounded pad just now. Not the best i was getting some serious porpoising then chine walk around 50mph so added a set of trim tabs these corrected the faults. Hopefully by blueprinting the hull i will remove these.
Just now i have two of these hulls. One in the picture ready for restore. I have a mod 140 1980 johnson cnc jackplate with added 2" so total of 6"-8" setback. Not sure how the hull will handle the setback. The other boat has a 120 evinrude looper. She is out the hole like a bullet but still a bit shake around 55mph
Would like a boat to handle some chop. I stay on the coast but the coast is on the north sea. Not the most calm of water lol.
Keep the pictures and updates coming. Very keen to see how you get on.
Feel free to PM any other pics you have
Cheers
AndyLast edited by spybot; 04-16-2021 at 03:56 AM.
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05-02-2021, 02:08 AM #37
This weekend I started the blueprinting of the Hull.
On a nice sunny Autumns day its an enjoyable task and one that needs to be finished before it gets too cold.
Ive spent a lot of time recently sorting the engine with a couple of spare lowers and a hydraulic jack plate.
One lower is Coned but doesn't have a low water pickup and the other two are going to get cones and one may even get carbon wrapped.
Both these two will have low water pickups.
The combined effect of a 14 degree raking transom and the jack plate will put the leg back at least 12 inches behind the lower edge of the transom so Im planing on extending the steel pad back to the bullet, effectively lengthening the hull.
This extension will be bolted to the main pad so can be tinkered with.
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05-10-2021, 01:54 AM #38
While the weather is wet Im working on my lower units, 3 in total.
Two virgins and one coned.
The coned one had a split in the case through the nut thread and the other two are good but will need cones.
A race guy here described how he spent hours scratching out corroded threads so I got my brother to make a Tap to do the job.
The mandrel will likely be used for carrying a pinion setting disc as well (2,655 and 2. 575 inch).
Im keen to hear if anyone has ever made a cone by threading into the bull nose of the standard Bullet and attaching a machined Ali cone.
The lost wax method of creating the water galleries would be used to form the Car Bog within the hollowed out machined bullet.
There is 12mm of Ali in the casting at the forward end of the bullet to tap into.
Id say 3/8 UNC or 10mm.
My motor is now safely perched in the workshop ready for winter tinkering
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05-15-2021, 01:15 AM #39
This is a C1 lower case that Ive taken the previous cone off as it didnt have a low water pick up.
This structure is the foundation of the new cone with a pick up.
The cylinder on the end of the bullet is the collection chamber and the back bone is the feed tube.
The collection chamber will have an aluminium cone that threads on and the pick up holes will be in that cone
It will get shimmed so that the pick up holes are in the correct orientation.
That 10mm s/s threaded rod is threaded into the gear case and sealed will locktite 577.
I made u drill guide that fits into the prop shaft bearing journal and a long series drill goes from the inside of the case, through the hollow guide and through the case perfectly on center.
The backbone tube will have small tabs on it and screws going into the leading edge of the case so that the bog and poly isnt the only structure holding everything in place.
At the top of the tube there will be a shaped cap and there will be two sockets welded off the sides of the tube down at the correct level as per normal.Last edited by NZ Sidewinder; 05-15-2021 at 01:18 AM.
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05-17-2021, 01:14 AM #40
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tnelsmn liked this post
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05-19-2021, 12:11 AM #41
This is the fun bit
There is a lot of shaping and finishing to do yet and the Aluminium cone bullet point needs to be made but thats simple.
I do need to get some advice about the water intake to the pump.
When looking down into the water gallery with the pump removed there isnt much width available to drill and Tap a decent size hole for the fitting.
even 3/8 bsp would be a squeeze by the look of it.
The starboard side is the side with the most room but is still tight.
The port side is a really tight on a C1 at least.
It looks as if it would be necessary to cut away some of the cavitation plate also.
Any pointers on these issues??Last edited by NZ Sidewinder; 05-19-2021 at 01:39 AM.
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tnelsmn liked this post
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05-19-2021, 11:03 PM #42
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05-31-2021, 05:12 AM #43
Somewhere on this forum I read a post from an engine builder that he could build 2 engines in the time it took him to do a complete lower unit like this one.
Its amazing, the hours just vanish.
But there is progress, Ive shortened to driveshafts, stripped my mid section and ordered some parts out of the States, made a new short powerhead to plate stud, blasted and repainted my rusty steering yoke, cleaned up all the solid mounts and replaced one long bolt, shortened both the water tube and the gear select rod and cast an Epoxy bullet low water pickup and shaped it.
Not sure if the water holes are ideally positioned though.
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05-31-2021, 05:12 AM #44
Somewhere on this forum I read a post from an engine builder that he could build 2 engines in the time it took him to do a complete lower unit like this one.
Its amazing, the hours just vanish.
But there is progress, Ive shortened two driveshafts, stripped my mid section and ordered some parts out of the States, made a new short powerhead to plate stud, blasted and repainted my rusty steering yoke, cleaned up all the solid mounts and replaced one long bolt, shortened both the water tube and the gear select rod and cast an Epoxy bullet low water pickup and shaped it.
Not sure if the water holes are ideally positioned though.
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06-30-2021, 03:48 AM #45
These fishing Pro max motors are insanely difficult to fit with bullet proof offshore steering wings, the kind that can take the kind of punishment I tend to meter out.
But after 4 days head down arse up its almost done.
The wing is carried in part by the cowl plate but also substantially by a second horse shoe plate down at the level of the 3 large bolts that clamp the plates.
Ive changed the bolts out for studs and the lower horseshoe is held by these studs which can be extracted up through the three new holes in the cowl plate.
This enables the whole unit to be lifted off in one.
Between the cowl plate and the new lower horseshoe plate are 5/8 formed Aluminium packers.
The actual wing plates are slung below this mounting unit on solid Aluminium spacers.
This enables the Cowl base to fit on.
It wont break or bend Im sure of that.
Cant imagine another way of doing it.Last edited by NZ Sidewinder; 06-30-2021 at 03:51 AM.
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