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  1. #61
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    Lol yes and now I have an offshore leg to use I need to make another one as that one is for a Promax on a fishing leg.
    The obvious option is to build another motor around those wings and alien cowl.
    Before I became obsessed with lower units I had a fetish for 20inch midsections so have a few.
    It may get real interesting when I start on powerheads.

    I have this nagging desire to put an SR20det or a Honda K series on a midsection.
    These are legendary 4 cylinder 4 strokes that can go Hi po for coffee money.
    Last edited by NZ Sidewinder; 09-04-2021 at 08:52 PM.

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  3. #62
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    Water pump cooling is sorted.
    The water pump sits in a pocket that is probably feed water from that 3mm hole in the pump base but its difficult to ascertain just how much water is flowing so today I took all the guesswork out of the matter and provided the pump cavity with ****e loads of water volume.
    I also added some other points to steal water from if need be.
    Click image for larger version. 

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  5. #63
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    Today a lower unit arrived that Id purchased on line as a water in oil write off.
    It was a 2015 150hp 4 stroke EFI 25 inch in mint condition.
    100 bucks.

    Thought there might be something salvageable inside that I could use somehow.
    The drive shaft is very similar to a 2.5 in many ways although it has two bearings plus the pinion bearing.
    The main driveshaft taper bearing has the same cone diameter (2.250) but a smaller shaft size through the ID (1 inch?) yet to measure properly.
    The second taper roller is irrelevant really, and pinion bearing and pinion spline etc are the same so its likely I can shorten it and change the top bearing so as to have a good drive shaft for a 2.5L.
    I dont know anything about sport masters but it may fit one of them dunno.
    The carrier can be machined to fit a 2.5 and it has the oil drain. dont really want to machine it though.
    Gears are big and strong looking, 1.92:1.
    Prop shaft is no good.
    Carrier bearing journal is rust pitted.
    Housing is mint.
    Bullet diameter is 1/8 larger than a 2.5L
    May just lookout for a new prop shaft for it for a rainy day.Click image for larger version. 

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    Last edited by NZ Sidewinder; 09-10-2021 at 03:47 AM.

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  7. #64
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    Im still doing lower units, organising mid sections and generally sorting the wheat from the chaff.
    Ive ordered a 200 ft lb Tollok shaft coupler and will do some work to decide whether one will hold a V6 2.5 drive shaft together.
    I have no problem spigoting and welding shafts but at 120 bucks a coupler might be attractive if it works.
    First test is to put a shaft together with one and dial test it for concentricity.
    Some Tolloks self center and others dont.
    May need to grind the 7/8 shaft to 22mm, hope not.
    I know they rust so if its works it will need to be painted.


    Remember the days when we played with small block Chevs and wanted to put 2 inch headers on those old cast iron heads but the bolt pattern was too tight?
    The work around was to use the standard bolt pattern and countersunk hex screws to fix an over sized mounting plate to the head and then drill and tap that plate to accept any header bolt pattern we wanted.

    I built a few water jacketed header sets for jet boats like this and intend to use that same system to mount a water jacketed tuner under my one piece.

    The poppet water will go into the tuner water jacket near the base and spray out the bottom near the bell lip.
    This way the tuner will stay cool without putting water into the exhaust stream.

    Im using a 10 mm Aluminium mounting plate with water jet cut oval ports and the base of the tuner will match that but made from stainless which is easier for me to work with.

    The tuner will be fabricated from oval stainless tube that can be cut to form the slight taper etc. etc etc.
    This oval tube is whats used to make high flow exhausts for very low cars
    Of course it could end up in the scrap bin but may not.

    Most of my money comes from something I invented by pursuing outrageous engineering ideas, although there is no denying that through the years I have generated a substantial volume of expensive scrap.
    However you only need to get it right once or twice to make it all worth it.

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  9. #65
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    Quote Originally Posted by NZ Sidewinder View Post
    Im still doing lower units, organising mid sections and generally sorting the wheat from the chaff.
    Ive ordered a 200 ft lb Tollok shaft coupler and will do some work to decide whether one will hold a V6 2.5 drive shaft together.
    I have no problem spigoting and welding shafts but at 120 bucks a coupler might be attractive if it works.
    First test is to put a shaft together with one and dial test it for concentricity.
    Some Tolloks self center and others dont.
    May need to grind the 7/8 shaft to 22mm, hope not.
    I know they rust so if its works it will need to be painted.


    Remember the days when we played with small block Chevs and wanted to put 2 inch headers on those old cast iron heads but the bolt pattern was too tight?
    The work around was to use the standard bolt pattern and countersunk hex screws to fix an over sized mounting plate to the head and then drill and tap that plate to accept any header bolt pattern we wanted.

    I built a few water jacketed header sets for jet boats like this and intend to use that same system to mount a water jacketed tuner under my one piece.

    The poppet water will go into the tuner water jacket near the base and spray out the bottom near the bell lip.
    This way the tuner will stay cool without putting water into the exhaust stream.

    Im using a 10 mm Aluminium mounting plate with water jet cut oval ports and the base of the tuner will match that but made from stainless which is easier for me to work with.

    The tuner will be fabricated from oval stainless tube that can be cut to form the slight taper etc. etc etc.
    This oval tube is whats used to make high flow exhausts for very low cars
    Of course it could end up in the scrap bin but may not.

    Most of my money comes from something I invented by pursuing outrageous engineering ideas, although there is no denying that through the years I have generated a substantial volume of expensive scrap.
    However you only need to get it right once or twice to make it all worth it.

    LOL your making me feel old. To the second comment, that is a signature worthy statement
    Hydrostream dreamin

  10. #66
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    Hats off to you for the amount of engineering and work that is going into this. Fun to follow along and see how others think of solutions to problems.

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  12. #67
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    Today between other jobs I built a poppet wall in my one piece.
    There's a lot of discussion about adding poppet galleries to one piece adapters and Ive only done it to support the pan plate and gasket.
    My poppet dump to atmosphere is through a water jacketed tuner piped from holes in the floor of that large dump cavity.
    For this reason the poppet gallery wall has holes in it as the water doesn't go out the bottom of the gallery as with a normal poppet dump but instead through the new wall into the dump cavity which is now almost completely sealed off from the pressure side of the cooling water system .
    That wall is bolted in place not welded so it can be deleted if necessary but probably more importantly I didnt want to weld my nice one piece.
    The hole Ive drilled in the side of the adapter plate for the bolt that pulls the wall snug into the corner could be plugged later if need be.
    The photo of the Pan with the Aluminium tape over the dump holes is just a mock up since I haven't got my dumpless Pan plates back from the water jet cutter yet.
    Click image for larger version. 

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    The reason Im doing this to a one piece and not just using a 2 piece is that Im only running a 7k motor and want stats and poppet but I want the strength of an offshore leg and mounts.
    I tend to be very hard on gear.
    Last edited by NZ Sidewinder; 09-27-2021 at 04:53 AM.

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  14. #68
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    It's been a good week overall although I'm not getting much traction on my build.
    I'm waiting for water jet cutting and the weather isn't good enough yet to get back onto hull work.


    However this week has been very productive with regard learning about the merc outboard.
    I purchased a 25 inch 3.0L midsection on line for one dollar.
    The idea was that I'd use it to practice cutting down to a 20 inch.
    Little did I know that the 3.0L uses the same transom clamp as the 2.5 except for the lower mount yoke.
    This midsection had a mint clamp and the yoke came off by hand and a 2.5L one went on to produce a really nice base for a new build.

    I'll put guides in the trim rod holes to hold the clamp true at high speeds.
    This bit of kit was a major score for one dollar.
    Then came the job of looking at how to cut and weld the leg which was the reason I purchased it in the first place.

    Looking at the leg it became apparent that the casting that produced the 25 inch was almost an extrusion of the 20 inch and the the stud thickening in the 25 inch casting extended back into the casting to where the 20 inch leg studs would have been threaded.
    In simple terms the 25 inch leg could have 4.5 inches cut out of it and have new stud holes tapped in it to become a 20 inch without any structural welding required.
    An astonishing outcome.

    It so happens that a near new 1.92:1 150hp 4 stroke gearbox I got for 100 bucks will bolt up to it.
    So for 101 dollars I have the beginnings of a poor man's XS.
    Just kidding around of course, maybe
    One day I'll sit an LS1 on it and go kick some 450R ass.

    The next revelation was that the difference between a two piece 225 ProMax adapter plate and a 175hp stock one is about 1 tablespoon of Aluminium which can be carved out and finished nicely with a rotary burr in less than an hour.
    Its only the port size in the top of the top plate that is different.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    All a bit of fun and something to do.
    This took just a couple of hours
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails 20211002_190200.jpg   20211002_185744.jpg   20211002_185333.jpg   3.0L assembly.jpg  
    Last edited by NZ Sidewinder; 10-02-2021 at 03:27 PM.

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  16. #69
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    Its even simpler than I first thought.


    The leg now is 19 inches.
    One cut through the leg at about the 19 1/4 inch mark then put it in a Mill to be skimmed off at 19 inches.
    Possibly in practice its best to rough cut at 19 1/4 inch then trim down to 19 1/8 inch by hand power tool then mill the last 1/8 inch.
    Then either by measurement or in my case by template mark, drill and tap the bolt and stud holes.
    there are various tricky ways to mark and drill the hole for the snout locator dowel.
    The exhaust liner is above and out of the way but I may delete that and run an offshore system.
    Cone that lower and fill it back up with its internals which are big and heavy.
    Then put it in the corner out of the way for now.

    Its now at the machine shop and will be bolted to a face plate and turned in a lathe as it is too tall for the mill.
    Click image for larger version. 

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    Last edited by NZ Sidewinder; 10-04-2021 at 04:09 AM.

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  18. #70
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    So I have two concurrent projects on now.
    First is the 2.5L Promax sidewinder and second a 19 inch 3.0L build.
    Totally unrelated for now at least.
    My 2.5L project has first priority and the conversion or modification of a one piece adapter to suit the steel Pro max has taken some thought.
    Basically Ive sorted what Ill run with and am now building it.
    The principle is that of a 2 piece, more or less.

    The poppet and stats are retained, the poppet dump is fed into the one piece through a pan plate that has no dump holes.
    So the large dump cavity of the one piece is now a poppet gallery that feeds the tuner.
    However there is the issue of air being trapped in this large gallery and also a possible issue of the poppet flow being restricted by the long journey to the tuner so to fix both these issues with a single fix Ive added stand pipes to the gallery that extend almost to the roof of the gallery.
    This pair of stand pipes drains air and overflow water directly to the mid section and ensures that there is a continuous head of water feeding the tuner jacket.

    This system ensures that the poppet flow is never restricted and air never accumulates in the poppet out feed gallery.

    The water drains to the tuner via a pair of 1/2 inch tubes that meet a pair of female sliding fit sockets.
    This means there are no threaded couplings in the line and the tuner can be removed easily.
    Probably the most significant realization so far in designing this system is the need for a way of draining/venting the air from the dump gallery. Hence the two stand pipes/overflow pipes ( short pipes that almost reach up to the pan plate)

    Click image for larger version. 

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    Tonight I tacked up an oval tuner tube
    1l2 inch taper over 9 inches.
    A 6x5 inch Ali plate 1/2 inch thick will be attached to the tuner bolt pattern with countersunk Machine screws and then the tuner will be built on a 6x 5 inch x 1/4 inch stainless base plate that will bolt down to that Ali plate.
    The tuner pipes and water box will weld to this stainless base.
    Ive had a few thoughts about cooling the tuner etc.
    Im thinking that putting water into the exhaust stream could change the balance of the exhaust system so will avoid it, opting instead for a jacketed tuner.
    The motor really needs to be 280hp just to to carry this lot.
    Click image for larger version. 

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    Then the fun stuff.
    The 25inch 3.0L leg I hacked in half went in the lathe today.
    My brother did the work.
    Ended up at 18.700 inch long.
    He first built a face plate with a center spindle that reached right through the leg and a neat fit out the water tube hole.
    This spindle was supported by the tail stock live center.
    Worked well and if it hadnt been for this center spindle the leg would have certainly flowen out of the lathe when he accidentally started the lathe when set on 1000rpm.
    He estimates it got to 300rpm before he could get on the brake.
    however all's well that ends swell.
    Click image for larger version. 

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    Click image for larger version. 

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ID:	494408Time now to start looking over the fence at the Hull
    This sketch is the plan and its too far along to turn back.
    It should produce a low CoG boat
    Deadrise 20 deg.
    Last edited by NZ Sidewinder; 10-09-2021 at 05:53 AM.

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  20. #71
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    Excellent work!
    Hydrostream dreamin

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  22. #72
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    Ive got two lowers being painted in Epoxy Black Gloss and had a peek today.
    Very impressed.
    I had planned to have then finished in some outlandish color but in the end decided to go Black.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    I may get a one piece done in red or blue.
    These two lowers will get white or gold bullet points which should make a nice contrast.

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  24. #73
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    Today my laser cut pan plates and water/laser cut tuner flanges arrived.
    The Pan was pleasing because it fitted well and all the bolt holes lined up
    Note the missing Dump holes.Click image for larger version. 

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    Click image for larger version. 

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    The plate on the right is 1/2 inch Ali and bolts to the adapter tuner bolt pattern with Counter sunk Screws
    Then the tuner with its 1/4 inch base plate bolts to the Ali plate.
    Some of these bolts are tapped into the Ali and some bolt through.
    Last edited by NZ Sidewinder; 10-13-2021 at 02:44 AM.

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  26. #74
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    Tuner mostly done now.
    Water from the poppet fills the jacket from the side and the water exits the tuner jacket from the top near the base flange.
    There is a 3/16 drain in the bottom of the jacket.
    Its all port matched but I doubt that will make much difference at 7k

    I used a handy system to mark out the flange plate to match adapter thread pattern.
    I made up 8 5/16 unc pointed studs which were screwed into the holes all at the same height.
    The Flange was carefully clamped over the pointed studs then hit with a soft hammer.
    Perfect set out.Click image for larger version. 

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  28. #75
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    Today I ordered two full sets of New Zealand made studs for the power head/ plate and for the lower unit.
    Power head ones made from 4140 zinc plated and lower unit from 316.
    560 bucks, almost fell over.

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