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  1. #1
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    Rebuild 900 Hour 2006 Opti 175HP with a Melted #4 piston

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ID:	477575 Typo supposed to be Piston #3 that melted, it's the middle starboard cylinder.
    What are your guys recommendations for cleaning up the melted aluminum and then how do I figure out what the bore needs (hone or rebore) and choosing parts for new ring and piston. Also opinions on rod and rod bearings for that cylinder?
    I already had some ccm reeds ill put in while apart but don't want to replace things that arn't needed unless you guys highly suggest it. I do failure analysis on transmissions for a living for the last 6 years but have never worked on a combustion engine cylinder or piston before.

    I melted the number 3 piston in June and swapped to a 200 carb powerhead for the rest of the season. found the 200 Carb to make no more power over the 175 opti yet the fuel burn is not worth it for me to keep running it. Also not a fan of not being able to start the carb motor cold if im trimmed up in super shallow water.
    I bought a spare fuel and air, injector used, and was thinking about sending all 7 air and fuel injectors to be flow tested, cleaned and re flow tested, hopefully confirming an obvious lean condition to the number 3 cylinder.

    Engine ran fine and smoothly after the melt down just down the power from no compression in the one cylinder.


    Thanks!
    Last edited by Fishinmymission; 11-23-2020 at 03:20 PM.

  2. #2
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    Definitely have the injectors and fuel rails cleaned and serviced. I would take a peek inside the compressor while your in there.

    Blake


    www.InjectorService.com
    Call/Text - 204-326-0390



  3. #3
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  4. #4
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    !!! Wear a painter's respirator ... !!!!

    Go to the pools supply store , get a gallon of muriatic acid .. about $3.00

    Small cup , and brush .. dab it on the cylinder wall .

    Wear a respirator ...

    Don't drip any down the ports ... it will eat that too .

    Let it smolder a minute or two .. scrape the slag with an old knife.

    Repeat if necessary .

    Touch hone the hole , measure , top , bottom , along the thrust face . Then again at 90* , top and bottom. That will tell you if the hole is round and/or tapered .

    Access from there ...

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  6. #5
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    ...what chaz says can be done, but you need to do it after you tear the powerhead completely down & rebuild it. that piston, and possible another, has already transfered aluminum, so... a powerhead rebuild is so easy, and straight forward. i don't understand why anyone would be afraid to do them. on a two stroke, it also happens to be the right way to go. they turn too many rpm's not to. your then good to go, for a very long time again, worry free. and it won't cost a fortune, because you didn't wait until it grenaded, like some people.
    Last edited by FUJIMO; 11-24-2020 at 03:11 PM.

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  8. #6
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    If anyone has a list of certain bearings or seals that are absolutely a no brainer to replace (easy and cheap to do compared to chance of 1000 hour+failure)
    I can grab a dial bore gauge and start inspecting per Chaz and the manual i feel like i can find some clean spots to find out if its tapered before i split and clean. I can handle the splitting the block and then cleaning the aluminum as well. I feel comfortable inspecting the rod and bearings on the number 3,replacing obvious seals while its apart. Ive never honed before but feel like I can find a friend or a shop or maybe buy or borrow the tool and do myself.

    I'm 99.9% certain i had a lean condition melt out my piston so i have a good plan on making sure that I find the source of the fuel delivery issue and make sure its corrected. My compressor has no play and no leaking compression when rotated by hand it acts like a complete air spring until it surpasses the 90 psi regulator and releases pressure through the regulator.
    I will note that over the three years I had this engine the alternator would heat up and stop working intermittently on only the warmest days causing some RPM drops at full throttle. This last summer in july when I had the melt down the alternator was shutting off for prolonged enough periods to figure out it was the culprit. I find it unlikely but I wonder if one injector could open more slowly while the engine was running completely off my strong dual batteries? Maybe unrelated to the meltdown but could have been related.
    I ran the engine after the melt down to 4000 rpms and it was still having surging issues until i replaced the alternator and then became a smooth rpm but down a cylinder. I also performed drop tests all other cylinders seemed to be working after the melt down with the engine running. I checked compression in the number one cylinder and it was 115psi when the melted one was 0.
    Do I need to compression check the others before i break it down further? I think I need new orings for the head i already removed first to check the number 5 cylinder.
    Last edited by Fishinmymission; 11-24-2020 at 06:30 PM.

  9. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by FUJIMO View Post
    ...what chaz says can be done, but you need to do it after you tear the powerhead completely down & rebuild it. that piston, and possible another, has already transfered aluminum, so...
    Chaz = wunderin , how ya rebuild the powerhead ... and then clean and check the bores ... afterwards ...

  10. #8
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    Acid works but I am lookin for a faster way........I use a flappy wheel......just be carefull of the bore.......

  11. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by Chaz View Post
    Chaz = wunderin , how ya rebuild the powerhead ... and then clean and check the bores ... afterwards ...
    ...replace "&" with "to" in my sentence chaz... there, i fixed it. (jeeeeez louiiiiis...)
    Last edited by FUJIMO; 11-24-2020 at 07:48 PM.

  12. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by FUJIMO View Post
    ...replace "&" with "to" in my sentence chaz... there, i fixed it. (jeeeeez louiiiiis...)
    I think we all knew it couldn't be cleaned and fully inspected till it was split. But fujimo when you say tear completely down and "rebuild" what does that mean? what do you consider a a rebuild versus only inspecting fixing up this one cylinder, piston and rod as needed.
    Does a rebuild mean all new bearings, pistons and rings all bores drilled oversized?

  13. #11
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    Pop one piston in ...... or 2 if needed.......cut your costs..... new every thing is a waste of $$$$$$$

  14. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by FUJIMO View Post
    ...replace "&" with "to" in my sentence chaz... there, i fixed it. (jeeeeez louiiiiis...)

    Like you said .. "your sentence" ... your **** ~up , you fix it ..

    BTW .. I'm familiar with jeeeez ... but who is Louis .. ???

    Is he related to Thelma or Louise ...

  15. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by Fishinmymission View Post
    I think we all knew it couldn't be cleaned and fully inspected till it was split. But fujimo when you say tear completely down and "rebuild" what does that mean? what do you consider a a rebuild versus only inspecting fixing up this one cylinder, piston and rod as needed.
    Does a rebuild mean all new bearings, pistons and rings all bores drilled oversized?
    Not to put words in someone else's mouth . I'll stick to what I said ...

    You asked ....

    What are your guys recommendations for cleaning up the melted aluminum and then how do I figure out what the bore needs (hone or rebore) and choosing parts for new ring and piston.
    !!! Wear a painter's respirator ... !!!!

    Go to the pools supply store , get a gallon of muriatic acid .. about $3.00

    Small cup , and brush .. dab it on the cylinder wall .

    Wear a respirator ...

    Don't drip any down the ports ... it will eat that too .

    Let it smolder a minute or two .. scrape the slag with an old knife.

    Repeat if necessary .

    Touch hone the hole , measure , top , bottom , along the thrust face . Then again at 90* , top and bottom. That will tell you if the hole is round and/or tapered .

    Also opinions on rod and rod bearings for that cylinder?
    I already had some ccm reeds ill put in while apart but don't want to replace things that arn't needed unless you guys highly suggest it. I do failure analysis on transmissions for a living for the last 6 years but have never worked on a combustion engine cylinder or piston before.


    So as a forensic pathologist on 8620 , 9310 , today it might be junk powdered metal ..
    If you found a cracked gear next to the one that exploded , would you ignore it in your report ??? After all it was not the cause of failure ...
    You shouldn't need a pocket protector to conclude that .. it wuz the first-un to the scene of the accident .. an ifin it didnt cause it .. it wuz fixin ta foller .. next ..

    No one here can tell you what the rest looks like .. and if you dont take a look , your only guessing .... 900 hours , it don't owe you anything. If you deicide to go as cheap as possible .. it might deicide it don't owe ya a ride back to the dock ...



  16. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by Fishinmymission View Post
    I think we all knew it couldn't be cleaned and fully inspected till it was split. But fujimo when you say tear completely down and "rebuild" what does that mean? what do you consider a a rebuild versus only inspecting fixing up this one cylinder, piston and rod as needed.
    Does a rebuild mean all new bearings, pistons and rings all bores drilled oversized?
    ...send the thing out & have a pro recondition/rebuild the powerhead top to bottom. they will know what to do.

  17. #15
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    Welp, there's always that ...

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