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Thread: Merc poppet valve issues
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10-25-2020, 07:55 AM #15000 RPM
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Merc poppet valve issues
06 175 optimax ,I replaced the water pump, housing and all, thermostats, and poppet. I was going for a high speed run the other day I got up to 5600 rpms before i go the over heat alarm. I thought I blew another water pump so i limped it home. At home I put it on the hose and noticed water coming out the poppet. So i pulled the poppet. No issues with seal. What i notice is when installing the poppet the seal gets pushed open when trying to put it in. It bottoms out before the pate hits the block. I cut a couple pieces of spring in very small increments until the seal no longer was pushed out when installed. Not sure if this is really bad or not. Now i have alternating heating up issues. Doesnt over heat at idle but sometimes will heat up while getting on plane. Definitely cannot WOT or it will over heat. seems will sometimes allows me to run 4000 rpms with zero issues and the motor running at 120 degrees. I will happily change the poppet I'm just wondering should the poppet be slightly open when installed ? I did change out the poppet seat. I cleaned everything inside the seat area and i installed with a proper size socket setting it as deep as it would go. Any ideas ?
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10-25-2020, 07:58 AM #2Screaming And Flying!
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Needs new rubber poppet parts. Also spring.
83 V-King, 96 Mariner, 200 hp ff block 2.5 w/a 28p choppa
We gotta clean this liberal mess up, VOTE TRUMP TO MAGA!
Rebuild thread:
http://www.screamandfly.com/showthre...-it&highlight=
http://www.screamandfly.com/showthre...cs.&highlight=
Videos
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10-25-2020, 08:08 AM #35000 RPM
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Ok , this was a complete new poppet before two hours of running. I am wondering about the seating of it. Should the poppet seat and then push back against the rubber seal before the plate hits the block?
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10-25-2020, 08:58 AM #4
The poppet has to have all the pressure of the full spring.
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10-26-2020, 09:40 AM #55000 RPM
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10-26-2020, 03:07 PM #65000 RPM
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what I'm saying is the if you put the first pate on with the seal, the poppet,
once seated pushes the black seal out and away from that plate. I did my counter rotate and dont remember seeing that, and I'm also not having any issues with that motor just this one.
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10-26-2020, 04:25 PM #7
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10-26-2020, 04:32 PM #8
It's called preload .. it's how all springs work .. from a ball point pen to the suspension under your car / truck ..
Inside the adapter plate there is a grommet that the plunger seals against. Make sure you have one in place. Put the poppet valve together in your hand .. stick it in the hole .. hold it with you finger or thumb while you install the two bolts ... after you get another new spring of course ..
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10-27-2020, 06:26 AM #95000 RPM
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I comprehend pre load on a spring. In this case the seal cannot be pushed in any further it is bottomed out.The plastic poppet plunger is all the way against the the stainless seat. It cannot go any further in. Not like a preloaded spring which has more movement. I guess I will measure lengths of plunger when my new one comes in.
Thanks
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10-27-2020, 07:03 AM #10
You do have BOTH pieces of the housing. Dont you?
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10-27-2020, 08:11 AM #11
Excellent question Road ...
N.haulic , Here is a pit~cher of how it's sposta look. Parts description in the link --->
https://www.mercruiserparts.com/bam/...8616/10126/220
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10-27-2020, 02:47 PM #125000 RPM
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Yes I have both pieces , it would not be able to run other wise. So # 16 and #17 I replaced with new. Hammered in with socket of appropriate size bottomed out for sure. When #15 is put into place and bottomed out in #16 the other end of #15 bottoms out on #11 pushing #10 away from #12 which means the seal surface of #10 is not sealed correctly against #12 and would lend to leaking which is was most certainly doing. #10 is almost an 1/8 off of #12 when pressed on the block. The #13 seal was con caved and black between the two water ports. I believe it to be a problem as i don't recall the other motor having this issue, and im not having any issues with the other motor. What this diagram does not show is the white plastic bushing that goes between #14 and #15. After rereading what i posted it is correct but
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10-28-2020, 08:57 PM #13
I'm sure you looked in there .. but , did you remove the old # 17 seat/seal out of the block and put the new one in "straddling the rib" inside the hole .. ?
3.0L motors don't even use # 16 . Rather than build the sub assy. and shoving it in the hole , you'd be better off just sticking one piece of the puzzle in at a time till you see what is causing your assy. to be "stacked" too tall ...
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10-29-2020, 10:19 AM #14Screaming And Flying!
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im thinking some of the later model mercs leave white washer out as shown in the pixs
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10-29-2020, 01:19 PM #155000 RPM
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I was wondering about the white washer. It comes in all the kits. I did remove 17 and I did straddle in the inside rib. I'm going to pull it apart later today and see what i can find. I will let you know if its "my error or parts " i hope I at least find an error.
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