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10-04-2020, 07:07 AM #16000 RPM
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WTB 2.5 sportsmaster 20" driveshaft
Looking for a 2.5 sportscaster 20" driveshaft. Anyone have one?
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10-04-2020, 09:13 AM #2
I may have one I think the seal surface needs to be repaired
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10-04-2020, 03:26 PM #3
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10-04-2020, 05:27 PM #4
I’ve been out of the game for a while can’t remember who does it but I think they either weld them or sleeve them
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robert jordan liked this post
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10-04-2020, 06:41 PM #5Screaming And Flying!
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i never knew anyone in Texas who spray welded these even though i was in that business for a good while ( lower units) i always installed speedy sleeves on them with good results its a good bit of know how involved to do it with no leaks but that was years ago and ive not built for the public in quite a while i have two of these that need work just like all the others eventually get to on all plated shafts there are other things that you can do but thats another story
Last edited by TEXAS20225; 10-04-2020 at 06:43 PM.
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robert jordan, tux974 liked this post
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10-05-2020, 05:09 AM #6
Depending on what you are running it on. I have had great success running the SS by cutting a 25" 3.0L to 15", 20" and respline 2.5. Never twisted or broke one.
Chris Carson can do it.
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Frank Molé, robert jordan liked this post
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10-05-2020, 07:39 AM #7
Thanks Tux, A friend told me last night about using a 3.0L shaft, but i think he said to cut the splines off my 2.5L shaft and weld them on a 3.0L cut shaft. Your suggestion of cutting down a 25 inch shaft makes more sense i think.
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10-05-2020, 08:02 AM #8
Even though some may do that, not something I would do or recommend. Every single one I have had done were cut and resplined.
If you are concerned about spline strength you could have it heat treated.
Unless you are running it on a big cat with a big wheel and surfacing it regularly I do not think you will have an issue.....JMPO.
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robert jordan liked this post
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10-05-2020, 09:01 AM #9
Once again, Thanks Tux. Just a stock 200 on a 18 Action Marine with 28 chopper prop. Just a lake boat. This has been helpful info for sure. Hope original poster finds this info helpful to, not trying to highjack your thread.
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10-05-2020, 09:34 AM #10Member
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10-06-2020, 04:49 AM #11
If you are running a stock 200 case all you need is a stock 2.5 20" single bearing shaft....Part 440001.
You do not need the 3.0L double bearing shaft.
Sportmaster is a double bearing shaft so the 3.0L 25" shaft Part #......45-881942
FYI wether you are cutting it 15", 20" the 25" shaft from Mercury is cheaper.
BTW, TEXAS (Bobby) is the LU guy.....
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10-06-2020, 02:37 PM #12
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10-06-2020, 02:49 PM #13
Is this SEI shaft worth buying or should i stick to a genuine Mercury shaft?https://www.amazon.com/SEI-PRODUCTS-.../dp/B00HYI7770
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10-07-2020, 05:06 AM #14
I personally like and only use the Mercury. If I remember correctly even ProMarine stopped selling them for a reason.
Sportmaster shafts are steel and stainless not just stainless. They are made that way because they are a bit stronger like a HP prop shaft but hence why they rust.
I have personally used the non-HP stainless shaft without issues for years.
If you are running in salt it will be just a matter of time before they go bad, rust. Actually you rarely find an older Sportmaster, CLE or Torquemaster that shaft are not rusty or just about ready to take in water, especially is they had poor maintenance. Even with good maintenance they rust....again all above is JMPO.
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10-07-2020, 06:41 AM #156000 RPM
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Just to make sure, have a 25" shaft cut ti 20". Do not need to do anything to the splines on the 25", correct?