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  1. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by racervboat View Post
    Although they did make a 4 3/4 dia xr6 i assume you thought you were buying the small case lower with sporty internals as a high performance gearcase.
    Yes, I did. I meant to type 4.25” when I posted above. Right now I’m running a similar ~20 year old L/U that hasn’t been disassembled (according to the guy who sold it to me) since it left JC’s shop way back then (except for the water pump, which I rebuilt recently) and it doesn’t leak. All I did was touch up some spots with epoxy, paint it over and put some oil in it. The worst part is that the oil that came out if the old unit looked better than the one in this one.
    I bought this piece of junk as an “upgrade” after hearing the whole spiel about how many race teams he built gearcases for, etc.
    I should’ve known better from when I couldn’t get him to send me a proper picture of the unit.

  2. #17
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    Is your case # 1647-9147 if so it's a large front bearing case and sportmaster internals will fit in it.If it was a small case i think the front bearing needs to be changed and they will fit.
    I may be slow but im ahead of you. *hit's only ankle deep but you went in head first.

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  4. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by racervboat View Post
    Is your case # 1647-9147 if so it's a large front bearing case and sportmaster internals will fit in it.If it was a small case i think the front bearing needs to be changed and they will fit.
    Thanks. I don’t know what the case number is, but will definitely check that out.

  5. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by CI STV View Post
    Thanks. I don’t know what the case number is, but will definitely check that out.
    It's on top of the rear case cast in it. Now that i think about it im not sure the sm guts will go in a small case as the gears are to big in diameter.
    I may be slow but im ahead of you. *hit's only ankle deep but you went in head first.

  6. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by racervboat View Post
    It's on top of the rear case cast in it. Now that i think about it im not sure the sm guts will go in a small case as the gears are to big in diameter.
    They normally cut down the SM gears to get them to fit, so that you can use a lower gear ratio in the small case, which I understand only came with the 1.78:1 gearing.
    Last edited by CI STV; 03-17-2022 at 10:57 PM.

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  8. #21
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    xr 4 and xr 6 early model for the 6 and some of the xr2 2.0 motas had the 4'1/4 case on it came only in 1:78 ratio, the xr4 has a different drive shaft set up then the later Xr6 models!! into the early 90's xr6 went to 1647-9147 case's (the small case was a nightmare for them) much more durable ive coned quite a few of the xr6 small dia and only a few xr4 because of the small drive shaft deal, look at tailsection of the case if cavitation plate extends past the mate up surface then its a xr6 if it does not its a xr4 lots of other issues with these small cases like clutch dog springs not holding detent pins in place (they gotta be welded in) and when they back out its ADIOUS time for the whole enchilada good luck with the seller i hope you come out on it

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  10. #22
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    Well, it’s two years since I bought this junk lower unit from the OP, who made me all sorts of promises to make me whole, but in the end produced nothing more than empty promises. It’s been nearly a year since I heard last from him, at which point I had promised to sue him, but haven’t gotten around to it as yet. So, for those of you on here who might be tempted to respond to an ad from this guy, his name Kelly Patrick and he is a world-class sheister, as far as I’m concerned.
    The sad fact is that I now see where he’s used this platform to sell motors since, and I only hope that the buyers got what they paid for.

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  12. #23
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    All you can do is put the word out on these fukkin dirtbags so other members know about them. I have bought lots of stuff off of here over the years and will never deal with this POS.

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  14. #24
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    I have been working everyday since and told you I would gladly fix it for you even after a year from purchase. And I find it hard to believe it sat ina box for a year. Either way my offer stands I will gladly repair what it needs and yes billet carrier was used the entire unit was used I told you that up front. You have my number.

  15. #25
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    I’ve been waiting every day since we last spoke for you to get back to me with a suitable replacement housing, which you never did. That was after many vexing emails back and forth. I have all the emails and messages saved, and will gladly publish them here and anywhere else I find you peddling your wares, if and when I’m inclined to get around to it.
    It didn’t sit in the box for a year. You know that. It sat in storage for a number months until I finished rigging my boat and when I went to install it, I found it was leaking oil. I’ve documented all of that and I have plenty of witnesses who would gladly attest to that, as many guy here were following my build and waiting for me to get the boat running and a couple of them were helping me with the project.
    I certainly didn’t run it, if that’s what you’re implying.
    Funny how you’ve now finally crawled out from wherever you’ve been hiding to make false assertions and protestations of your good intentions, as if you’re the one who’s $5,000+ dollars out of pocket for a piece of junk, and that you’ve been waiting for me to do what, exactly?
    I wasn’t going to say anything more, but since you decided to resurrect this very sore topic, I may as well share that a few months ago, I got a certified outboard mechanic to pull it down and found a few more surprises.
    For example, the housing had clearly been blown up before, since the housing was pretty mangled up inside, especially around the pinion area, the gears were worn badly and the teeth on the pinion even looked like they had experienced some kind of chattering or lack of oil. The unit also still had a bunch of aluminum shavings in it, as if it hadn’t been cleaned out properly after the failure. We took some pictures of that too.
    We also found out that the billet carrier is the one for the XR6 gears, not the cut down Sportmaster gears that you have in it, and it appears that must’ve required you to use something that looked suspiciously like a piston ring as a spacer for the carrier, apparently to keep it from binding up and locking up the unit when you torque the carrier nut down properly. We can’t even figure out where that marvelous piece of engineering goes…
    I didn’t even know that there were two different type of XR6 billet carriers until I spoke to Geiger a couple of months ago, when I bought one for my other L/U. Geiger told me that you have to use the S/M gear specific carrier that is designed to accept the big ball bearing rear propshaft bearing, which is obviously different from the bearings the 1.78 XR6 gears use.
    So, as far as I’m concerned, you, sir, are a crook and a cobbler, and you sold me a piece of junk lower unit and now you have the temerity to come on here and plead your case as if you’ve been impugned?
    Best you leave this alone now, because I sue people for a living, and like I told you before, you being in a different jurisdiction is an inconvenience, but not an impediment, to the enforcement of a judgment against you.

  16. #26
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    I built racing differentials as a side hustle for 20 years similar in vein to this where it was a highly specialized retrofit for one application only. Thanks plenty of welding and machining involved. One of my assurances was a quiet operating unit. Well, one guy got one that howled a little and i mean a little, he wasnt happy so i built him an entire replacement and with his assistance delivered it to his home hours away and along with a pile of tools we re and re’d it in a day. I took his now used unit and sold it to one of my best friends at a discount which he still runs to this very day. Point of the story is if trust is in order here sending a replacement unit and then repairing this one on your own time at your own concern and your own reputation if you resell it is really the only avenue i can see a community like S&F signing off and recommending you as a solid source for this type of work moving forward. That or take the above advice
    Hydrostream dreamin

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  18. #27
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    early xr6 is 41/4 dia along with xr4 which is a lot different to each other all small case xr6 and xr 4 had the slits in the tail section and ive never seen a xr2 with a 41/4 diam case on but thats not to say they did not come with one i had a 89 xr2 2.0 150 it had big front bearing 43/4 case on it as did the xr6 from the early 90's did have a anode in the tail section give me the casting number thats in the tail section between the two stud holes its inside the mating surface i can most likly tell what it came on and does it have drive shaft nut threads no preload had them!! take a pix from the water pump base looking down into it also this is very difficult to weld ive tried a lot they is alot on 4th of july sparkler material in the case

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  20. #28
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    Hard to weld anything that's been in the presence of oil/grease. Strip it give it an acetone bath and try to find a vacuum oven to finish degreasing and degassing it. Vapor degreaser works very well also.

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