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  1. #31
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gordon02 View Post
    Thanks for the video. Lots of porpoising and lots of noise for what looks like mid 50's top speeds. Any idea what the speeds actually are and what weights these are running?

    Gordon
    I think the class rule is stock Merc 22 chopper.
    Stock looking engine with 2:1 lower and a 22 chopper, light boat, lots of revs, you would get to 60?

    http://www.ngkf1.com/2020-tri-hull-rules/

    1. Weight

    A. Combined boat, driver, and equipment weight must be a minimum of 1700lbs following heats.
    Last edited by powerabout; 09-20-2020 at 12:51 AM.

  2. #32
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    Quote Originally Posted by powerabout View Post
    the class is v4 xflows
    never a dull moment with my foot in my mouth!! Learn something every day. I didn't know it was a class dedicated to a specific motor. Ignorance is bliss...........till you realize yur not ignorant anymore......if you catch my drift
    Last edited by keefallan; 09-20-2020 at 04:46 AM.

  3. #33
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gordon02 View Post
    Off track, but what year and is it a Johnson or Evinude? I just learned something new today - my Evinrude cover will not fit over my new BRP Evinrude replacement coils. Even when installed exactly to instructions supplied by BRP. The 1978 cover has a sharp slant along the rear top - so much so that even pointing forward on #1 and #2, the cover won't clear the #1 top coil. The solution is going to be using the large, aluminum "C" that came standard on the 1977 and earlier models. Luckily, my block has the 3 post that this C mounts to. The Evinrude cover is essential for me since I'm making a copy of the movie boat/motor.

    I'm just curious to what coils you're going to use and how you'll mount. The old style coils are long gone and I wanted all-new coils and CDI boxes, so I had to resort to this mounting solution. A Johnson cover has much more room and has a much better breathing/venting system at the rear handle. I borrowed this one from the 1977 140 I just bought and did the trial fit you see here. I bought another C on ebay this morning which I'll bead-blast and paint to match the Evinrude colors. Gordon
    Gordon, I am using the new style cover, so I don't have the issues you do. I still had to fab mounts for me because I have 135 heads.....and they don't have bosses in them to mount the coils on the head. So, I had the opposite problem. I use the last style of coil they made for these motors as well.....like you are doing. Those slanted motor tops do take up space. Suggestion........if you are gonna mount the upper coil up top, why not just fab up a bracket for each side(for the one coil) instead of using that 135 coil mount bracket for all four? That thing is massive. Truth be told, I would be forced to, because I use a water cooled rectifier. The paint looks good btw. Is that a 135 cowl? That would explain the reason for the tightness. OMC had to make changes when the heads with the integral coil mounts came out to create the spacing necessary for them. I also make my own plug wires as well. That way, I can make perfect length wires to tuck however I want them to.

    I got my junk(free) 140 as a midsection and seized powerhead. The belly pan was beat up and I had to cut it off to get to certain bolts that were corroded beyond use.......grinding the heads off bolts to be able to separate the p-head from the mid. The crank is bad, and all the rods/pistons are bad, but the block is a stock bore, so it can be cleaned up. when its completed, it will be using the last generation of electronics from the 90's, since it came as a bare hunk of metal. I think it was left out behind the dudes shed for years. I drained copious amounts of water out of an inspection cover.

  4. #34
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    Quote Originally Posted by keefallan View Post
    never a dull moment with my foot in my mouth!! Learn something every day. I didn't know it was a class dedicated to a specific motor.
    I think the rule is 99ci but it seems to be 100% omc

  5. #35
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    Quote Originally Posted by FMP View Post
    Re slash ,
    That would change the tuner signal, maybe distort the rarefaction and hinder scavenging. Makes me think about doing a curve to out the back of the leg , short inside curve end and longer outside both flush to an opening out the back of the mid . Still liking the original 77 with the idle back pressure reliefs welded shut if it has them. You have power trim for idling.
    If I make a race motor, I will do just that. I can see in my head what you are saying.....with a curved tuner coming out the mid.

  6. #36
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gordon02 View Post
    Keefallan, I think you're over thinking the tuner thing - John Tiger's article says simply to cut the tuner to 8" for a little extra at the top on light hulls. There is at least 12" between the end of cut tuner and the waterpump - that in addition to the fact they are not anywhere near alignment is enough for me not to give it anymore thought......
    You are probably right Gordon. I do overthink things at times. Btw, where did you get John Tiger's article? I would love to read it.

  7. #37
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    Keefallan, send me a PM with your email and I'll shoot you the PDF. No, this is the stock 1978 Evinrude 115 cover. The 1977 140 is the exact same shape and just as restrictive. The Johnson covers not only have more room in the back, they have a breathing/venting system around the handle area that these Evinrude covers don't have. Don't overlook the old coil bracket - it weighs nothing, just a few ounces, but only if your block has the 3 post needed to mount it. Seriously, the bracket weighs about the same as one coil. I'm only going to mount the top 2 coils with it, those on 3 and 4 will mount on the heads. I will cut and trim the eBay bracket before the new paint is applied mostly to clean up the old style CDI box mounting tabs in the back and improve appearances.

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