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  1. #16
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    Black boxes have proprietary circuitry in them and are not worth trying to figure out if they have failed or exactly how. Discard them and move on as suggested. You can find testing procedures in the service manual, but them are not serviceable if they have failed and not worth the effort IMO.

  2. #17
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    heads up this is 2.0 liter 16 amp charging system mota not 40 amp system there are some differences i would think from my experiences after rebuilding mercury motors for a very long time its the stator high side went down

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  4. #18
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    I didn't catch that this was a 2.0 liter 16 amp charging system, but the pics do show switch boxes. Maybe check the high rpm coils with a DVM at least for continuity and resistance until you get a DVA adapter for dynamic testing. Maybe worth following TEXAS's hunch.

  5. #19
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    You guys got my head spinning now. When it comes to anything electrical I’m in trouble! I just ordered a DVA adapter from amazon along with a flywheel puller if I have to pull it to replace the stator. I should have this stuff next week. Hopefully its not as complicated as it sounds. Will I be able to test these things without pulling the flywheel?

  6. #20
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    short answer is yes

  7. #21
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    One of them is timing advance and the other is an idle stabilizer. Both are crap and cause more problems than anything. Check this link.

    Your motor will run better without them.

    https://www.google.com/search?q=1995...obile&ie=UTF-8
    1990 Shadow bass boat w/ 2.4 200 Merc. Totally resto'd boat and love it!

  8. #22
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    Pretty sure idle stabilizer and timing advance over is same box. The other box is prob hooked to old oil pump wires or sumthin

  9. #23
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    So after further review the wires on the stator are toast, especially the two yellow wires that go to the rectifier. The insulation on them is so brittle It crumbles when I move them around and the wires are green. The flywheel puller tool showed up so I pulled off the flywheel to replace the stator that I need to order. The # on the stator is 398-5454A, when I look for the part online there is always another # after the A... why is that? Can anybody tell me what stator I should order? Also since I’m this far should I go ahead and order a new trigger at the same time? I don’t see and part # on the trigger so I’m not sure what to order for that either... Seems like everyone sells these parts and the prices on them are all over the map. Any recommendations on who has the best price on these items? It’d be nice to buy from one place and be done.

  10. #24
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    I just bought some used parts at great prices from bullet123, who has closed shop and selling off all his inventory. He has a thread too. PM him with your needs and he can hook you up and help you out.

  11. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by TEXAS20225 View Post
    heads up this is 2.0 liter 16 amp charging system mota not 40 amp system there are some differences i would think from my experiences after rebuilding mercury motors for a very long time its the stator high side went down
    Do you happen to know the part# for the replacement stator I need? The stator on my motor is part# 398-5454A. When I look online there’s always another number after the letter A, example 398-5454A12 very confusing. I’d also like to replace the trigger since the wiring is just as old, I can’t figure out the replacement part# for that either. Motor is a carbureted 175hp Mariner serial#6619976.

  12. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by Soporific View Post
    I just bought some used parts at great prices from bullet123, who has closed shop and selling off all his inventory. He has a thread too. PM him with your needs and he can hook you up and help you out.
    I sent bullet123 a message last week, must not have what I’m looking for.

  13. #27
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    Box on Top Mark advance module definitely get rid of In The Box on the side is the oil injection module which hooks up to wear your fingers pointing to the module that tells you oil injection Rod is spinning and since you don't have oil injection anymore get rid of all of that. Definitely replace the stator and if the wires are bad on the trigger replace that as well see if that doesn't take care of your spark issue. Because that all needs done anyways just replace it all and check spark
    Last edited by perfmarine1; 09-05-2020 at 10:11 AM.

  14. #28
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    One other thing to check is the ground wires to the coils. My 89 175 did the same things some time ago and I found the ground wires had failed. Started with one of them not firing and upon further inspection they were all just about shot. Made up new ground leads and it fixed that problem for me.

  15. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by perfmarine1 View Post
    Box on Top Mark advance module definitely get rid of In The Box on the side is the oil injection module which hooks up to wear your fingers pointing to the module that tells you oil injection Rod is spinning and since you don't have oil injection anymore get rid of all of that. Definitely replace the stator and if the wires are bad on the trigger replace that as well see if that doesn't take care of your spark issue. Because that all needs done anyways just replace it all and check spark
    Stator is definitely getting replaced, the wires on it are shot. Problem is I can’t figure out exactly what stator I need to order, mine is marked 398-5454A, all the ones online I’m finding have additional numbers after the letter A example 398-5454A12. Mine has nothing after the letter A, 398-5454A nothing more nothing less. This is the only thing holding me up. For now I’m dead in the water.

  16. #30
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    Go to boats.net and put ur serial in and it will give u updated # on sierra and oem, can use that # to get cdi stator (little cheaper) still good quality.

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