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  1. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by FMP View Post
    Hope it isn't steam cleaning
    Head gasket should be pretty easy to fix though, right? I've pulled heads just for an inspection, and put back on with a fresh gasket. Doesn't take too long. This was Evinrude V4 anyway. I haven't done this yet on my 1987 2.0l.

    -Peter
    "padded wonder"
    __________
    the wet:
    Hydrostream Viper, 140 v4 crossflow, some Raker props
    16' Baja/Tahiti/Sidewinder clone, 135 v4 crossflow
    17' boston whaler alert, 90 merc fourstroke
    13' boston whaler, 40hp yamaha

    the dry:
    2003 bmw ///M5
    1993 mustang/griggs racing road race car
    and a handful of clunkers

  2. #17
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    Yes, easy enough. It's good to check the heads and deck to make sure there's no warpage before reassembly. 2.0 blocks are usually bulletproof. Skimming the heads helps get the compression up a little...

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  4. #18
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    Paper covers glass

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  6. #19
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    Update 8.22.20: I just got back home from the lake. Had a buddy willing to drive my boat around at WOT while I sat on the floor in the rear staring into a timing light.

    Test Performed: Timing light was installed on each individual cylinder with engine not running. Engine was then ran to WOT until the RPM drop occurred. Timing light was under constant observation.

    Results:

    • All cylinders maintained spark even during the RPM drop.
    • It took considerably longer to get the first RPM drop (We ran halfway across the lake before the first drop)
    • The tell-tale stream appears strong. Heads warmed but were not too hot to keep hand on after runs.
    • An extremely small leak in the cover gasket for the Cylinder 2, 4, 6 head was observed.
    • After all 6 cylinders had been tested, we stopped to fish for about an hour and ran trolling motor only. When we headed back to the ramp, it once again took longer for the RPM drop to manifest. (As if the thermostats have to fully open)


    So, basically I'm back to square one other than the super clean spark plug and the fact that the engine has to get to operating temperature before the problem occurs now has me really considering the head gasket theory.

    Question: The Serial Number of my outboard is: A114812. Can someone verify the proper head gasket is Mercury P/N: 27-96281T01 (Sierra: 18-3863)

    Thank you for bearing with me here.

  7. #20
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    Catch anything?

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  9. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by FMP View Post
    Catch anything?
    We caught about a dozen medium sized bluegill that are now sitting in my bait tank and netted about two dozen good sized gizzard shad that are sitting on ice.

    Heading down to the Olmsted Lock and Dam on the Ohio River at daybreak to chase catfish. (Taking my primary boat that ISN'T having engine issues.) Will be shooting video for my YouTube channel, The Weekend Angler.

  10. #22
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    Pan fish always taste fine.

    Same gasket

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  12. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by FMP View Post
    Pan fish always taste fine.

    Same gasket
    Thank you! I love to eat Panfish, but this time we're gonna try feeding a hungry blue or flathead with them. Between the bluegill, shad, and hopefully a fresh killed Asian carp we will be laying out a smorgasbord.

  13. #24
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    Stinky dead mouse on the bottom

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  15. #25
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    Just finished ordering replacement head gaskets and cover gaskets. Supposed to ship out tomorrow. I would imagine they'll arrive sometime this week. Probably about the same time as the remnants of Hurricane Laura so that it's a washout until early next week.

    I'll post another update once I have new information.

  16. #26
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    Plug wires. Sorry for confusion
    1990 Shadow bass boat w/ 2.4 200 Merc. Totally resto'd boat and love it!

  17. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by rgsauger View Post
    Plug wires. Sorry for confusion
    I figured that was what you meant, but I wanted to verify. However I took it to the lake this weekend and had my buddy run it at WOT while I sat in the back of the boat staring into a timing light. Never observed any loss of spark, even when the RPMs dropped.

  18. #28
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    Update 9.11.20: Head gaskets and water jacket cover gaskets have been replaced. All bolts have been torqued to specs listed in the OEM shop manual. Compression is around 120lbs per cylinder. with no more than 2-3 psi difference between cylinders. Engine starts quickly and sounds good when allowed to idle for a short time using the flushing muffs.

    Planning on taking it to the lake for a water test sometime this weekend.

    Will report back with any findings; Fingers Crossed we have found and eliminated the problem.

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  20. #29
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    Update: 9.16.20: Head Gaskets replaced, good compression. Issue is still occurring. I took two videos while running at WOT. Excuse the shakiness, but I was trying to hold the phone while also running the boat and keeping track of my 5 year-old daughter.

    1st Instance of RPM Drop (Engine has been running at WOT then began dropping RPM prior to holding at low RPM) https://youtu.be/HtF4m9M06eQ

    2nd Instance (Occurs after taking boat to idle from WOT then shows idle to WOT) https://youtu.be/ny_3j1DPqQ8

    Once WOT is reached in both videos, the throttle position is maintained and my hand remains on the throttle (no inadvertent throttling back)

    Any ideas for the next step in finding this gremlin?
    Last edited by wcsd106; 09-16-2020 at 03:24 PM. Reason: addl info

  21. #30
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    That 2nd video shows it pretty good. Hard to say but maybe have a 2nd person to pump the ball when it looses rpm or hit the choke and see if picks up or bogs down

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