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  1. #31
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    Glad you reminded me about the plastic.............forgot that..........its amazing to watch acetone ruin plastics!! But would would such a small amount diluted in a 12 gallon tank hurt plastic?

  2. #32
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    More than likely be ok. Best bet is spend time on the water & burn it all out in 1 day.
    AIRWALK
    gettin' old ain't for sissies

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  4. #33
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    Quote Originally Posted by keefallan View Post
    Chaz, have you ever mixed your own ratios to clean up the rings and combustion areas in an outboard...............before and after kinda stuff?

    I will be writing down those ratios for myself in the future..........great stuff.
    A little carbon is good . The area that is not is piston wash . "Reading" the wash pattern , color of the plugs porcelain , how far the cad discolored on the ground strap are all "tools" to "arrive at a tune-up. Getting rid of it would be like walking over to your tool box and picking one size wrench .. and throwing it away.

    If it's so old that it's carbon city inside , it might be time to pull it apart and go thru it.
    I started to pull into a bbq place one day , I saw a sign next door for a $19.95 oil and filter change. Dropped my truck off and said I'll be next door .. see you in an hr.
    Before I even got halk way across the parking lot , they called me back .. Your oil is totally dirty , you need our engine flush $36 or $40 dollars , wheel alignment , new battery , belts , hoses .. I said : all ill have left after lunch is $25 dollars .. I might need it , but I cant afford it .. Please just change the oil and walked away.
    When I got back (yes I watched them thru the window ) I paid the bill .. I went and asked the kid .. you didn't pour no diesel fuel in my crankcase to "wash it out" did ya .. kid said no sir .. I handed him ten bucks and said , here's for telling the truth , I said to the mgr : I lied to you cuz you lied to me .. that motor don't have no sludge in it , I replaced that plastic manifold about two months ago . And if it did , the worst thing you could do is break all that **** up and have it clog the pick-up tube and kill the motor ..
    Like I said earlier I think that bustin loose a bunch of carbon chips isn't good for the piston , rings and cylinder bore ..
    With todays oils they can be run pretty clean. Correct fuel mixture and timing , I don't see where the junk yard tune up is really necessary ..
    If I just had to do it , I would probably just fog it with Quick-klean .

    Octane booster , that another story ..

    I mix up 5 gallons at a time .

    Toluene , mineral spirits , Marvel mystery Oil ..

    Put a gallon in each tank , and bring two gallons with me . Even if I run the tanks down to near empty , I can put "90 wreck" and a couple gallons of booster and make it back to the dock ..

    Prices changed a bunch since this was printed .. LOL

    Sunoco Ratings
    SUNOCO "Standard"
    Color...Purple
    Research Octane...115
    Motor Octane...107
    R+M/2 ...111
    Specific Gravity...0.725
    Reid Vapor Pressure... 8#
    Distallation temp, degrees F
    Initial...90
    10%...160
    50%...220
    Final...360
    SUNOCO "GT Unleaded"
    Color...Natural
    Research Octane...105
    Motor Octane...95
    R+M/2 ...100
    Specific Gravity...0.760
    Reid Vapor Pressure... 8#
    Distallation temp, degrees F
    Initial...90
    10%...150
    50%...210
    Final...230
    SUNOCO "Supreme"
    Color...Blue
    Research Octane...116
    Motor Octane...109
    R+M/2 ...112
    Specific Gravity...0.715
    Reid Vapor Pressure... 8#
    Distallation temp, degrees F
    Initial...90
    10%...155
    50%...215
    Final...260
    SUNOCO "Maximal"
    Color...Red
    Research Octane...118
    Motor Octane...115
    R+M/2 ...117
    Specific Gravity...0.700
    Reid Vapor Pressure... 6#
    Distallation temp, degrees F
    Initial...100
    10%...150
    50%...220
    Final...240
    Richard Lassiter's "How to Mix Your Own Brew"
    FORMULA 1
    Toulene
    R+M/2...114
    Cost...$2.50/gal
    Mixtures with 92 Octane Premium
    10%...94.2 Octane
    20%...96.4 Octane
    30%...98.6 Octane
    Notes: Common ingredient in Octane Boosters in a can. 12-16 ounces will only raise octane 2-3 *points*, I.e. from 92 to 92.3. Often costs $3-5 for 12-16 ounces, when it can be purchased for less than $3/gal at chemical supply houses or paint stores.
    FORMULA 2
    Xylene
    R+M/2...117
    Cost...$2.75/gal
    Mixtures with 92 Octane Premium
    10%...94.5 Octane
    20%...97.0 Octane
    30%...99.5 Octane
    Notes: Similar to Toulene. 12-16 ounces will only raise octane 2-3 *points*, I.e. from 92 to 92.3. Usually mixed with Toulene and advertised as *race formula*.

    FORMULA 3
    Methyl-tertiary-butyl-ether (MTBE)
    R+M/2...118
    Cost...$3.50/gal
    Mixtures with 92 Octane Premium
    10%...94.6 Octane
    20%...97.2 Octane
    30%...99.8 Octane
    Notes: Oxygenate. Very common in octane booster products. Has lower BTU content than toulene or xylene, but oxygenate effect makes the gasoline burn better and produce more energy.

    FORMULA 4
    Methanol or Ethanol
    R+M/2...101
    Cost...$0.60 - $1.75/gal
    Mixtures with 92 Octane Premium
    10%...94.3 Octane (Methanol)
    10%...94.7 Octane (Ethanol)
    20%...Not Recommended
    Notes: Methanol is wood alcohol. Ethanol is grain alcohol and found in Gasohol in 10% ratios. Both alcohols are mildly corrosive and will eat gas tank linings, rubber and aluminum if used in excessive ratios. Main ingredient in "Gas Dryers", combines with water.

    FORMULA 5
    Isopropyl Alcohol and Tertiary Butyl Alcohol
    R+M/2...101
    Cost...$0.60-$1.50/gal
    Mixtures with 92 Octane Premium
    10%...94.5 Octane
    20%...Not Recommended
    30%...Not Recommended
    Notes: Similar to Methanol/Ethanol. Isopropyl Alcohol is simply rubbing alcohol.
    MAKE YOUR OWN OCTANE BOOST How to make your own octane booster (this is the basic formula of one of the popular octane booster products). To make eight 16 ounce bottles (128 oz = 1 gal):
    100 oz of toulene for octane boost
    25 oz of mineral spirits (cleaning agent)
    3 oz of transmission fluid (lubricating agent)

    This product is advertised as "octane booster with cleaning agent *and* lubricating agent!". Diesel fuel or kerosene can be substituted for mineral spirits and light turbine oil can be substituted for transmission fluid. Color can be added with petroleum dyes.

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  6. #34
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    Chaz what about aces I know it is a good stabilizer and rec 90 the shelf life is up to 6 months? thanks Rick

  7. #35
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    ...i've never needed to remove carbon. carbon is my friend.

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  9. #36
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    Quote Originally Posted by delawarerick View Post
    Chaz what about aces I know it is a good stabilizer and rec 90 the shelf life is up to 6 months? thanks Rick

    Octane booster , that another story ..


    I mix up 5 gallons at a time .

    Toluene , mineral spirits , Marvel mystery Oil ..

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  11. #37
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    Chaz, you mentioned about goin' thru it if its so dirty in there. I went thru this 150 crossflow very recently. I got it for beans(300), and I was just wanting the powerhead.......the rest was 25 inch stuff which I dont need. I wanted to do a compression test b4 tearing it apart. it was good.......all in the low 90's for a v6 crossflow with bathtub heads. I pulled the heads.....the piston tops were really nice looking. The bores were good as well. But when I got the pistons out........and removed the rings..........every single lower ring was stuck. I have never seen that in any of my teardowns of these crossflows(I mean flatheads) before where the cylinder bores were in good shape with all the rings being stuck. every lower ring broke trying to get it free.

    Thats what brought me to mention about piston clean-up...........before and after. Top rings were good tho.............

  12. #38
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    Was the second ring "stuck in gunk" or was the ring land "pinched" .. ?

    Flathead ... Thanks , that was funny …

  13. #39
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    Quote Originally Posted by Chaz View Post
    Was the second ring "stuck in gunk" or was the ring land "pinched" .. ?

    Flathead ... Thanks , that was funny …
    No, it was stuck in gunk. I scraped out all the old garbage with the pieces of the old rings. When I went to install the new rings, they dropped right in......freely floating not pinched anywhere. It had to be only a matter of time before it grenaded I think. The head gasket crumbled when taking the heads off.

  14. #40
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    It sounds like someone got their moneys worth … and is as old as you and I added together ..
    Another reason to gap the second ring wider than the first .. lets the gas/oil that got by the first ring have somewhere to go .
    Them ole flatheads burned pretty dirty too .. and back in the day , the best two stroke oil you could buy was 30wt non-detergent ..
    I'm sure you'll build the motor you want out of it .. and now you know exactly what's inside ..

  15. #41
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    I have run marvel in my 2 strokes for 30 years , i run 50:1 premix plus 10 percent marvel. Even my old inline 6’s stayed together after ridiculous abuse. No stuck rings here! I have used it and have had good luck, i’ll stick with it. My newest outboard is a 1989
    Love is a paycheck

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  17. #42
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    Quote Originally Posted by Chaz View Post
    It sounds like someone got their moneys worth … and is as old as you and I added together ..
    Another reason to gap the second ring wider than the first .. lets the gas/oil that got by the first ring have somewhere to go .
    Them ole flatheads burned pretty dirty too .. and back in the day , the best two stroke oil you could buy was 30wt non-detergent ..
    I'm sure you'll build the motor you want out of it .. and now you know exactly what's inside ..
    Crossflows are definitely thirsty buggers!!! Idling around is pretty efficient surprisingly enough. And you are right, Getting it torn down, I know the rings are freely moving around and the motors clean in there. There is no reason for it to not run for many years. I put this one back stock, no porting(minus the center point removing in the ports). I can always throw on tight heads and carbs and make it a gt150 at another date.

  18. #43
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    Quote Originally Posted by Chaz View Post
    It sounds like someone got their moneys worth … and is as old as you and I added together ..
    Another reason to gap the second ring wider than the first .. lets the gas/oil that got by the first ring have somewhere to go .
    Them ole flatheads burned pretty dirty too .. and back in the day , the best two stroke oil you could buy was 30wt non-detergent ..
    I'm sure you'll build the motor you want out of it .. and now you know exactly what's inside ..
    Chaz. Honest question as I know nothin bout a 3.0. Say a 3.0 225 efi with few ur mods and such (non opti) Whats the max rpm for these motors

  19. #44
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    A stock 300x falls off the cliff @ 6200 rpm . You can put a small wheel on it and turn it 7000 ... but it will run the same speed as it did with a big wheel and lower RPM ..

    Bust out the grinder if you want to buzz it higher ..

  20. #45
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    Quote Originally Posted by keefallan View Post
    Crossflows are definitely thirsty buggers!!! Idling around is pretty efficient surprisingly enough.
    I would think that's where they really shine. The brick wall on top of the piston keeps the charge from short circuiting out the exhaust port . Makes em feel punchier bottom to mid-range .. And realistically that's where 90% of the boating public lives ..

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