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08-04-2020, 09:06 PM #1Member
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25 Eliminator Daytona twin 300r water pressure issue
Water pressure drops above 50mph and temperature rises specifically on the port engine. Looking for suggestions.
Here is the setup:
Sportmaster HD 1.60 lowers
12-1/4" setback on bracket including -3.6 degree wedge
2-3/8" up from running surface of hull to center of nose cone of drive
Running Hill Signature 400 15.25 x 30P props (turning out)
No jack plates
Pressure on Port motor 5 psi
Pressure on Starboard motor 10 psi
pressure drops as trim is applied
Dealer replaced water pump impellor and checked screens for debris
Thank you for any suggestions
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08-04-2020, 09:26 PM #2
Stupid question, but at high speeds and lift are the outboards low enough? Just seams odd with the sport masters to do this. And I’m assuming it’s a tunnel V? Without a jack plate to lower it will be hard to find a easy answer
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08-04-2020, 10:20 PM #35000 RPM
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If we understand you correctly the prop shaft is 2 3/8" above the bottom of the hull. Is that correct? I have never worked on a Daytona Eliminator so I do not know how high they typically run dual engines on this hull but more than 2" above the bottom seems a bit high? Too bad it is not hydraulic jack plates like the other member said, because it would be easy to lower them 1/2" at a time and watch what happens to the water pressure. I would try and find out where other people with the same hull run theirs to get an idea if they are similar to yours or lower.
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08-04-2020, 11:35 PM #4Supporting Member
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Go pros don't lie. Mount a couple on transom and play it back to see where the water is hitting the case. Water pressure will always drop on a sportmaster case when trim is applied (the nose drops which causes drag and the water goes under the pick up), they are designed to run neutral or negative at speed.
Joe
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Beak Boater liked this post
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08-05-2020, 06:24 AM #5Member
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boat starts to porpus at 60 without up trim and wont stop A little up trim and it takes off but pressure drops thanks for the info
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08-05-2020, 07:04 AM #6
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08-05-2020, 03:24 PM #7
I think couple 3 or 4in plates would be good investment, if u dont need bow lift stay with 3 or 4in setbacks , if u can use more lift get some wider 6-10in. Sounds to me it wants to go when u trim up but pressure stops you? I'd lower em 1 bolt hole , but jackplate u mite even gain little extra on top
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08-05-2020, 06:24 PM #8Member
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That seems high. I remember my F26 with 300x's center of nose cone was around 1" up from the bottom of the running surface.
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Instigator liked this post
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08-05-2020, 06:36 PM #9Member
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08-05-2020, 07:16 PM #105000 RPM
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08-05-2020, 07:27 PM #11
Gotz water ramps … ?
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tunnelfun liked this post
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08-06-2020, 10:00 AM #12
Water Ramps like this?? Sure do!
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08-06-2020, 10:39 AM #13The Historic Photo Master
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...its also kinda weird to think, that just the propellers alone, can affect water pressure. but they can. they're particular design, blade count, rake, blade cross-section design, hub type & length, etc., all can alter a side water intake gearcase & sometimes bottom or front water intakes flow function...food for thought.
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08-06-2020, 10:43 PM #14
Ohh sure , now I got "ramp envy" ….
They do look like that though .. only smaller ..
Zero to three eights deep over an eight inch span . Why are they two and a quarter inch's wide … ? Cuz that's how wide my air file is …
Un~common sense says that they should be maybe a quarter inch deep on the outside and a little more than a half inch deep on the inside to negate the seventeen degree dead rise of the sponson .. or maybe I should lean the motors in at the top to match the notch's …
Putting trust in the people who made the boat is nice . Same for the people who rigged it . Truth is , none of them are perfect . The best you can do is find some level ground , level the transom (use the trailer tires air pressure in you have to. Measure from the ground to the keels , strakes , engine mount holes , any place you can use as a reference . Told ya they aren't perfect .. It's not that big of a deal , if the bottoms are flat when the transom is three tenths of a degree to one side. That's your base that you can return to any time.
When I bought my cat , the jackplates were crooked and a quarter inch different from side to side. I reused the four half inch bolts on each engine and when I came back and looked they were both leaning .. noticeably .
I built my own plates , mounted them correctly with six bolts to the boat and eight bolts from the motor to the plates.
BTW .. when they moved , it threw the "toe" off by a quarter of an inch . It didn't change , speed , RPM , or water pressure . It did handle as bad as Bubba Wallace drives . If entry angle changed water pressure , no one would ever be able to make slight adjustment to the wheel at speed , let alone make a full ……. turn
Propshaft height , with the keel level and the propshafts level . ( I check across the flywheels when I'm alone ) I have a four foot long straight edge with a "flag' that's I scribed a line on every eighth of an inch . Clunk ,against the bottom , slide back till it touch's the gear case .. Quick , simple , accurate .. and about $6 worth of aluminum .
Tow in / out , Lets say the props are spinning "out" . They are on top of the water , well half of it . So the blade goes in the water on the outboard side of the shaft , scoops down , inward and up .. seems "out" is slang , compared to direction of work.
Tow .. how you see fit ..
Me , I remember .. no , that's not true. I had to take the props off and look at my notes... Then it took someone else on the other side . No don't use the little bent up clip on the end . Hold it where the one inch line is against the little dot on the front of the case .. No , the other one inch , yes the longest line beside the number one .. &&*%%^**( @%^*( #&^*(#$ .. yes your fired , you cant ever read a *&^%^*** tape measure ..
So I have a bar of aluminum with a hole at one end that slips over the nose of the sporty … and yes the other side has scribe marks . I already know my number , so no I don't waste time removing prop's , finding level ground , plumb bobs etc. . I did that once already … doing it over and over again only proves I wasn't paying attention the first time ..
I tried remote pick-up's , erratic pressure readings at best. A fellow G.O.B.I.T. graduate said, Waelp Charlie , with yur boat a bouncin up an down in the ocean , seems to me that the bottom of the boat aint a always touchin the water . But I'll betcha you don't jump it hi enough to have that lower unit sukkin air .
I ditched the remote *^&$%&^*(*( *(^%^ and worked the water inlets to
"The Witch's Nose" standards .. and went from 9 -10 lbs to 22 pounds @ the same height .. but that's not for a motor that Mercury is responsible for , but then neither would be drillin and tappin holes fer crossover lines , remote pick-ups .. five gallon buckets with a hand pump etc .. Looks like the best ya can do is take the time to learn what ya got ( or more important listen to it tell you what "IT" wants) .. or waller out the holes on the left side , drop that behemoth an eighth inch an send it ..
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08-06-2020, 10:18 AM #156000 RPM
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25 Eliminator Daytona twin 300r water pressure issue
Another thing to do would be to install transom mounted water pick ups. This was how my Cougar 22MTR was rigged at the factory, so I always have good water pressure now matter how high I jack the engines. The boat also has Bob's 6" hydraulic jack plates as well. I hope you get it figured out.
Thanks
GaryLast edited by Hydrogasm; 08-06-2020 at 01:54 PM.
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