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Thread: I/O Over Heating At Idle
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07-27-2020, 10:21 AM #1
I/O Over Heating At Idle
Howdy folks its been quite a while since I have posted anything here on S&F, life happens is not just a meaningless phrase.
I have a nice old Chris Craft Scorpion 260 that was repowered in 2004 and has seen salt water on and off since then, but mostly fresh. My port engine (Mercruser 260 Alpha 1) is now overheating, but only at an Idle. I replaced the impeller in the drive. It did not change anything one bit. I am now convinced that I have a severe internal corosion problem. I have noticed more and more free scale inside the cooling areas that I access when I winterize the motors. I have even had large chunks of scale make their way into the bottom of the lower unit. I think that I may have blocked passages in the head gaskets. Or, perhaps the exhaust manifolds are clogged with rust and scale. Im just looking for the best course of action without removing or replacing the motor just yet.
Thanks for reading this long post. I really appreciate any and all replies.
JohnJ.NRA Life Member
58' Farmall Cub
Is that your mama's boat?
"I said I didn't have much use for one. Didn't say I didn't know how to use it."- Mathew Quigley
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07-31-2020, 11:04 AM #25000 RPM
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I would check the water flow coming from the transom housing, inside the boat. If you used and aftermarket water pump kit, I've seen a lot spinning the hub on the impeller. Make sure your hose from the bell housing the the transom plate is not kinked.
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john j 80 viking thanked for this postjohn j 80 viking liked this post
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07-31-2020, 08:59 PM #3
I hadn't thought to check that hose. Will have a look tomorrow.
Thanks!NRA Life Member
58' Farmall Cub
Is that your mama's boat?
"I said I didn't have much use for one. Didn't say I didn't know how to use it."- Mathew Quigley
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08-01-2020, 09:04 PM #4
exhaust risers/elbows.
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08-01-2020, 10:41 PM #5
Today I removed my water pump and found that the bearings were totally trashed, but it wasn't leaking and the impeller was fully intact. I also took the thermostat out and tested that. It was fully open by the time it reached 150*. While the pump was off I flushed out the engine block from the front and ran a coat hanger thru the block to loosen help get things moving towards the exit.
I water tested it, and it runs much longer now before it gets hot. So long that I thought that I may have solved the problem, but no.
I think that, now it is at a point where it just needs a little more improvement in water flow somewhere.
My next move will be to remove and clean out the 16 year old manifolds and risers. Hopefully they will still be usable after rodding them out.
If not Overtons has manifolds for $189 ea.
Thanks for the replies!
JohnNRA Life Member
58' Farmall Cub
Is that your mama's boat?
"I said I didn't have much use for one. Didn't say I didn't know how to use it."- Mathew Quigley
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