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  1. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by FUJIMO View Post
    ...porta dual hydraulic bracket, with the proper setback for your install, are the bomb.
    It is like a cheater system that you don't appreciate until you have one "stay on the up button until the tachs outrun the speedo and/or you loose water pressure". I am putting a 17" Porta on my tri-toon and my guess is that I will pick up 3 or 4 mph between the C.G. shift and case height.

    Joe

  2. #17
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    Thanks everyone for the replies! I am not new to boating, but am certainly newer to the performance world, so be prepared for a lot of dumb questions from me. I was planning on setting the boat up how it was originally run and making changes from there. That will help me understand what changes give me certain results so I can be more prepared to make tweaks in the future.

    What are the major benefits of getting rid of the steel tube brackets? Could I add hydraulic jack plates to the brackets that came with the boat?

  3. #18
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    While we’re getting the Saber back together, we have this little thing to spend our summers on in Lake Erie!

    Click image for larger version. 

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  5. #19
    Join Date
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    JUPITER, FLORIDA
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    Quote Originally Posted by FUJIMO View Post
    ...question. how do you tilt or trim a pair of 3 litres if they are bolted to only 8'' setback manuel jackplates that are mounted to a full height sterndrive transom? (or did i miss a part?)
    You would have to run 25" midsections and limit your trim with trim stops. 8" to 12" of setback would give enough clearance to trim the boat properly at normal running speeds but your not going to trim the motors all the way to the stops...also, my 2800 SX Outboard had an outboard well....
    J-Town Hot Boat Team
    Barracuda 188CCR/Suzuki 140

    Past Boats:
    Checkmate 2800SX/Twin Merc 250’s
    Checkmate Pulsare 2400/Verado 300
    Checkmate Starflite/Merc Pro XB250
    Canadian Edition Hydrostream AE-21/Merc 2.5
    Checkmate Pulsare 2100/Merc 225Xri
    Hydrostream Valero YT Bowrider/Merc 175
    Talon T-21/Mercury Racing 2.5 Carb
    Sleekcraft ModVP Bowrider/Evinrude 225 Vindicator
    Velocity 230/Mercury 454 Magnum
    Scout 172 Sportfish/Yamaha 130
    SeaRay F16 Jet boat/Mercury SportJet
    SeaRay 17' Seville/Merc I/O

  6. #20
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    ...understood steve. the saber in question though, is sport'n a full height sterndrive transom. even higher that your transom was. my point is...simply mounting both o/b's to only 8'' brackets, of any kind, ain't hap'nin. motor(s) installation on that transom need appropriate setback to do everything correctly. why am i tell'n you all this?...you know exactly what i mean, lol... ...been windy lately...surf'n's good out there...
    Last edited by FUJIMO; 07-27-2020 at 10:01 AM.

  7. #21
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  8. #22
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    We finally got the boat back in the water yesterday. We ended up keeping the steel tube brackets for now and found a pair of Mercury 250 EFIs to hang off the back.

    The next step is to fine tune the current setup (props, engine height, etc.) before making any upgrades.

    Any suggestions on where the prop shaft should be? What about props? I’m pretty new to the outboard world.

    Thanks in advance!

    Click image for larger version. 

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  9. Likes sonicss33, Instigator liked this post
  10. #23
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    Looks great!

    I have a 28 Manta with twin 250 EFIs and I'm seeing 70mph with Mirage Plus 25s and a light load and probably still one hole too low on the engine mounting. Could be a good prop to try.

  11. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by trivialpursuits View Post
    Looks great!

    I have a 28 Manta with twin 250 EFIs and I'm seeing 70mph with Mirage Plus 25s and a light load and probably still one hole too low on the engine mounting. Could be a good prop to try.
    Thanks! We haven't opened it up all the way just yet, but I don't expect to get anywhere near 70 with the current setup. They're a set of 21P 3-blades (not sure on any of the other details, they came with the engines). I think the engine is sitting a bit too low too. Could you share some photos of the engine height if you have any, please? Do you have any setbacK?

  12. #25
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    I can get some pics this evening if the weather cooperates. Engines are on a Stainless Marine bracket with probably 24" of setback.

  13. #26
    Join Date
    Oct 2001
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    #2 iron from the Mayo clinic, Fla. / Blue Ridge, VA.
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    Cool

    looks like a wonderful rig , clean and not overdone with graphics, forget about " SPEED " and enjoy it for what it is , be safe , and plan some long comfortable cruising. its like Wildman says , " it's not how fast you go , it's how cool you look " Fun Out
    most overnite successes usually take at least 10 years


    Certified turd polisher,

  14. Likes keefallan liked this post
  15. #27
    Join Date
    Apr 2001
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    Got your PM and over phone will be best.
    Lots of info to decipher.

    Is the bottom straight vee or does it have a pad?

    Motor height is a balancing act.

    Place a straight edge/level on the bottom, straight ahead of gear case center line and see where it hits front of gear case.
    A good start might be if it hits at the cavitation plate.

    This sounds deep on a single but on twins, as speed increases, the hull lifts which effectively raises the motors.
    If it is a pad bottom, the effect will be exaggerated.

    During initial set up on an unknown rig, jack plates are a huge help.

    I have them on my 25’ Checkmate twin OB project. Which is an unknown.

    I mounted my bracket/plates/motors so that, w/the plates full down, the cav plates are level w/bottom straight ahead of them.
    Full up, the bottom is at center line of prop shaft.
    (this is very high for a heavy vee bottom like ours)

    At this level props will have a huge effect.

    I have about 30 mins test time so far......., so an on a huge learning curve.
    W/my through hub Raker props and plates full up, the boat launches on plane w/zero cavitation/prop slip.

    On the other hand I have several sets of over hub props to try where I’m not sure it will even plane w/plates full up.

    Another side effect of motor height is handling.
    Based on your locale, I’m guessing you’re a Lake Erie boater.

    If so, key facets will be, time to plane, min planing speed, handling around dock, especially in wind.

    Another issue to watch is bow hop.
    Many twin OB bees do this, including mine. (At this point)

    Typically, the higher the motors, the worse it will be.
    This is due to not having enough prop in water to carry the bow.

    I think you hit a home run on motors for your project.

    Now you see why this is easier over the phone ��

    Ill PM you my number.

    Love to hear about and see your project.

    Congrats on the progress so far!

    Gary



    Quote Originally Posted by mackey147 View Post
    We finally got the boat back in the water yesterday. We ended up keeping the steel tube brackets for now and found a pair of Mercury 250 EFIs to hang off the back.

    The next step is to fine tune the current setup (props, engine height, etc.) before making any upgrades.

    Any suggestions on where the prop shaft should be? What about props? I’m pretty new to the outboard world.

    Thanks in advance!

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	D08A7C8E-4AC5-4460-BCD2-6E90A7F935FC.jpeg 
Views:	230 
Size:	118.9 KB 
ID:	489111
    Click image for larger version. 

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    I'd rather be competitive w/junk I built in my garage than win w/stuff I bought.


    I refuse to allow common sense to interfere w/my boat buying decisions.


    Checkmate 16' 140 Johnson
    Hydrostream 17' Vector FrankenRude I
    Laser 480 (?) 21' w/GT 200
    Glastron Carlson Conquest w/XP 2.6
    Glastron Carlson CVX 20 w/XP 2.6
    24' Sonic w/twin 250 Johnsons
    24' Sonic w/twin 250 HO Johnsons
    19' STV River Rocket w/FrankenRude II
    Allison XR 2002 w/Frankenrude II
    Hydrostream 18' V-King w/Frankenrude II

  16. #28
    Join Date
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    Syracuse,NewYork
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    I had an 18" stainless Marine bracket with Bob's twin hydraulic jack plate which was another 6-7" setback on my 30' straight v bottom no pad or notch. All the way down the prop shafts were about even with the bottom. I had to run a little tab for porpoise at low speed but planed well,etc. I ran 4bl blasters and Hill sl5s, bravo 1 4s with no prob. Ran low70s full load. 300rs Sportmaster lowers which probably slowed me down at that low a top end.

  17. #29
    Join Date
    Jun 2018
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    Quote Originally Posted by Instigator View Post
    Got your PM and over phone will be best.
    Lots of info to decipher.

    Is the bottom straight vee or does it have a pad?

    Motor height is a balancing act.

    Place a straight edge/level on the bottom, straight ahead of gear case center line and see where it hits front of gear case.
    A good start might be if it hits at the cavitation plate.

    This sounds deep on a single but on twins, as speed increases, the hull lifts which effectively raises the motors.
    If it is a pad bottom, the effect will be exaggerated.

    During initial set up on an unknown rig, jack plates are a huge help.

    I have them on my 25’ Checkmate twin OB project. Which is an unknown.

    I mounted my bracket/plates/motors so that, w/the plates full down, the cav plates are level w/bottom straight ahead of them.
    Full up, the bottom is at center line of prop shaft.
    (this is very high for a heavy vee bottom like ours)

    At this level props will have a huge effect.

    I have about 30 mins test time so far......., so an on a huge learning curve.
    W/my through hub Raker props and plates full up, the boat launches on plane w/zero cavitation/prop slip.

    On the other hand I have several sets of over hub props to try where I’m not sure it will even plane w/plates full up.

    Another side effect of motor height is handling.
    Based on your locale, I’m guessing you’re a Lake Erie boater.

    If so, key facets will be, time to plane, min planing speed, handling around dock, especially in wind.

    Another issue to watch is bow hop.
    Many twin OB bees do this, including mine. (At this point)

    Typically, the higher the motors, the worse it will be.
    This is due to not having enough prop in water to carry the bow.

    I think you hit a home run on motors for your project.

    Now you see why this is easier over the phone ��

    Ill PM you my number.

    Love to hear about and see your project.

    Congrats on the progress so far!

    Gary

    Wow, that’s a lot of information! I look forward to talking to you a bit more!

    It’s a straight Eve bottom, no pad.

    I had a GoPro going to look at the cavitation plate when we were out yesterday, I’ll post a photo in a follow up message.

    It seems like it gets up on plane really quickly, so I’m thinking I want to raise the engines a bit.

    Jack plates would be great, but we’re already sitting at 24” of setback.

    I think props will do the most changing, the ones currently on there came with the engines which came off of a fishing boat. Not sure what to try next. This boat used to be a race boat so it has no sort of cabin at the moment and is a bit stern heavy.

  18. #30
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    Here’s a screenshot of the GoPro video. Not a great view but the best I could get quickly. Next time out I’ll try and get a better shot.

    Click image for larger version. 

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