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Thread: DIY trim gauge
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07-17-2020, 06:34 PM #15000 RPM
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DIY trim gauge
Looking for ideas on how to set up a manual trim gauge DIY.
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07-22-2020, 04:50 PM #2Team Member
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Here's mine for a CMC PT-130 unit, made of scrap aluminum for actuator and scrap wood for indicator - proof of concept stage now. Actuator rides on a 1/2" OD bushing which is itself affixed onto a 1/4"x20 bolt threaded into side of CMC. Made a couple of iterations, trying to minimize any binding and making sure no interference. Loosely based on the actuators made for the high powered Mercs. Simple 33c cable, hardest part was finding the fittings.
Shows promise, haven't noticed any issues so far, time will tell. If it keeps working, I'll make it from stainless and refine the indicator, etc.
Pete
14'10" Home Built Mahogany Runabout - Ken Bassett Design
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David - WI, specboatops liked this post
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07-23-2020, 12:13 PM #35000 RPM
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You got it - basic guage - looks good .
The fittings ? - for clamping the cable or cable ends . Can you expand on that .Last edited by kellytheaker; 07-23-2020 at 12:21 PM.
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07-24-2020, 11:44 AM #4Team Member
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Just trying to convey that a mechanical indicator using a 33c cable is a simple and straightforward solution. It's funny, I had no idea about mechanical indicators, I simply couldn't envision that kind of system. I was banging my head against the wall trying to figure out how to incorporate a remote industrial angle sensor in/on the engine, LOL! It was a big "aha" moment when I read about the mechanical systems after searching on S&F. I'm more of a wood-working guy with less than average mechanical sensibilities
14'10" Home Built Mahogany Runabout - Ken Bassett Design
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07-24-2020, 12:01 PM #5Screaming And Flying!
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Subscribed for sure ...........
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07-24-2020, 06:26 PM #65000 RPM
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A stick with lines on it, bolted to the transom near the cowl, and a rear view mirror.
Joking, like to see what homemade gauges are out there
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07-24-2020, 11:27 PM #7Team Member
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I thought I'd expand a little on some of the details of the actuator and the indicator and how I pieced them all together. I mentioned in an earlier post that the most difficult thing for me was finding the clamps and fittings and that was true. Even though I knew what I needed based on images of completed systems on various S&F posts and other places, I had no clue what the parts were called or where to get them. The guys at Home Depot looked at me with a blank stare as I tried in vain to describe what I now know is called a "strap clamp" for example, let alone the Seastar Pivot that attaches to the end of the cable, LOL. I finally found the parts after much searching on McMaster-Carr and Amazon. I now realize that Seastar Solutions (Dometic) has all these parts.
Parts Used:
1)33c push/pull or control cable. I used the Uflex Mach 5 without any control fittings - it has 10/32 threaded rods on each end. I believe there are other 33c cable manufacturers and I suspect they would work also.
2) Strap clamps. These have an indent which fits into a notch in the 33c cable, they are cable specific. I finally found them on McMaster-Carr. I kept looking for pad eyes, finally stumbled onto the term "strap clamp". They basically affix the cable to a substrate. I ordered the #3125K11 for 10/32 push/pull cable.
3) Seastar Pivot, 30 series #031029. This was a tough one to locate, not sure how I found the name, but once I did I was able to order from Amazon. It is a 90deg fitting that threads onto the end of the cable to allow attachment to a plate, held in place by a cotter pin.
4) Standard small pad eye. I needed a second clamp at the indicator to help keep the cable stable. This is why the indicator is a little long.
5) The actuator is 1/8" aluminum plate I had laying around. I had to make a couple of versions to make sure I cleared the splash well drain holes, steering, etc.
6) The indicator is some scrap wood with a slot milled in to see cable end.
Indicator - Two clamps were used, both on back side. One a standard 33c cable strap clamp, the second a small pad eye strap, commonly used to route small lines on sail boats, etc. I don't have a photo of the back, but it's just those two clamps. The end of the cable has a scrap piece of brass held in place by a nylock nut. Pretty simple, there are more sophisticated solutions available, as mentioned, this is more of a proof of concept stage.
Actuator - The aluminum parts are 1/8" plate. A single 1/4x20 bolt with a 1/16" thick Delrin washer between the plates and nylock nut holds them together and acts as an axle. The lower rotating piece rides on a 1/2" OD nylon bushing attached to a 1/4x20 bolt which is threaded into the CMC tilt plate. The cable end has the Seastar Pivot fitting threaded on and is held on the movable aluminum piece with a cotter pin. The three holes allow for adjustment of the range at the indicator end.
The strap clamp holds the cable in place, as shown below. I had to empirically determine the best orientation of the cable and clamp at this point to try and minimize the angular movement of the cable end as it moves in/out, seen in video. I'm not sure if this is typical, or if it will wear out in time, but seems to work well so far with no binding.
I was unsure if the off the shelf systems made for more modern engines would work given that I don't have an integral trim unit and that it is an old motor, so ended up piecing this together.
I hope this helps the OP or anyone else interested. Feel free to PM me if I can answer any questions about my set up.
PeteLast edited by peter1708; 07-24-2020 at 11:32 PM. Reason: Added final picture
14'10" Home Built Mahogany Runabout - Ken Bassett Design
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Greg G, kellytheaker thanked for this post
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