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Thread: 3m 5200

  1. #16
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    I think I will stick to resin using 3/8'' glass fibers and cab-o-sill in it for sticking and making filets. I use that mix because it is a similar material to the layup and is brutally strong.

    83 V-King, 96 Mariner, 200 hp ff block 2.5 w/a 28p choppa
    We gotta clean this liberal mess up, VOTE TRUMP TO MAGA!
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  3. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by XstreamVking View Post
    What is the advantage of using 5200 for a bedding material?
    No clue but I did as much research as I could on this and noticed the gentleman who has a history building good streams who recently resurrected J-crafts ( not going to post his name out of respect ) was bedding in stringers with a white polymer appearing stuff. Looked a lot like 5200 to me. He was also vacuum bagging everything and man the end results of his work are wow factor 11. This was my main reason plus as mentioned more time to play with fitment and whatnot.

    On a related yet different tack I spoke with an older gent who said the best way to do it was set the stringers before doing the transom because he suggested the wood was only a mold for the glass. He said for a lightweight super tough hull pull the stringers out ( coated with parchment first ) because once the glass is in place you dont need the wood in there at all. Sounded a bit odd to me I cant seem to wrap my head around that but it did make me feel a little better about using 5200 for this. That said Im not doing this yet and I am very open to changing my plans. Im still back forth between vinyl ester or epoxy.
    Hydrostream dreamin

  4. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jmr1974 View Post
    How do you guys feel about bedding stringers and knees to the hull with 3M 5200? Then follow up with glassing in after the 5200 is cured. I’m almost to this stage in my Ventura build and have 2 tubes of 5200 caulk gun size tubes.
    ...waste of time & money...

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  6. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by FUJIMO View Post
    ...waste of time & money...
    and a lot more time and money to go... should I loose sleep at night because I used 5200 to hold my stringers and knees in place until I had time to glass them to the hull? Serious question. Really, that’s all I’m looking for.

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  8. #20
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    IMO it will be fine. Once cured the 5200 is inert as far as the resin and glass are concerned. Not my choice of material, but that does not mean it is wrong or will cause problems. Many ways to do the job. FRP is very a forgiving system to work with. .

    83 V-King, 96 Mariner, 200 hp ff block 2.5 w/a 28p choppa
    We gotta clean this liberal mess up, VOTE TRUMP TO MAGA!
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    http://www.screamandfly.com/showthre...cs.&highlight=
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  9. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by XstreamVking View Post
    IMO it will be fine. Once cured the 5200 is inert as far as the resin and glass are concerned. Not my choice of material, but that does not mean it is wrong or will cause problems. Many ways to do the job. FRP is very a forgiving system to work with. .
    Thank you.

  10. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jmr1974 View Post
    How do you guys feel about bedding stringers and knees to the hull with 3M 5200?...
    ...Your Welcome...

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  12. #23
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    If u make your own putty to bed it with it's no extra cost also a d dries quick , that's what I neen doin to bed my transom ,stringer, edges of floor and on top stinger as floor goes down , i know 5200 is bad but cant be stronger than the resin,glass,cabosil, mix , put it in big zip lock bag and use it like cake icing thingy matter fact its bout same texture to. To each his own and good luck

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  14. #24
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    Advantage with the 5200 is that it makes a non brittle joint. It forms a more than strong enough bond but will not crack under stress like a putty can do. Just don't put 5200 in a joint and then close it off from air while it is wet because it will take forever to cure.
    1970 15' Allison/135 Chrysler stacker
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  16. #25
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    ...the multiply layers of glass that are properly laminated over & down the longitudinal stringer, the transverse stringer, the bulkhead, etc., provides ALL the strength that will ever be needed. no joint help needed whatsoever. the proper way to glass in a longitudinal stringer is to cut & apply the material the necessary width, so that it lays over the top of the stringer, down each side of the stringer, and then across the bottom of the boat to the adjacent stringer. you do this to every longitudinal stringer alternately, so that each application is overlapped. NO putty or 52 mcgoo needed if the material used for the stringers fits the bottom of the boat properly. they are held in place by jigs prior to lamination. putties & fillers are a cost/time/weight no-no in hi-performance boat lamination. at least it always was,in the hundreds of performance hulls, & multiple national & world champion boat builds i orchestrated.

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