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  1. #61
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    I CAN ALWAYS MAKE ANOTHER DOLLAR, BUT I CANNOT MAKE ANOTHER DAY

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  3. #62
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    Cheap, fast, good. Pick two
    Hydrostream dreamin

  4. #63
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    IMO, putting a different manufacturer's engine in a stock body American car/truck built after the 1950's is just wrong, bordering on sacrilegious.

    Chaz, I'm thinkin' ya don't care for the Fox body and later Stang crowd a whole lot.
    Myself, I like um all. I've owned a 70 El Camino original 307/PG/10 bolt car. I put a 396/TH400/12 bolt in it. Then a 72 Chevelle original 402 car, a 73 Sebring w/ 440 and the 89 Stang GT. They were all low 14/high 13 sec cars. All of them were my daily driver and the only vehicle I owned when I had each one. I was just a po-boy having fun. I didn't have the cash to put the nice parts in them.

    It wasn't until I got my Allison that I had enough disposal income to spend some money on something I enjoyed. Not 1400 Mod or faster money but enough to have fun.
    Last edited by CDave; 06-14-2020 at 03:46 PM.
    -----------------------
    93 STV Mod VP/MERC 2.5 200
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    The Bible is life's instruction manual.

    Proverbs 4:18-20

    " For a nation that is afraid to let its people judge the truth and falsehood in an open market is a nation that is afraid of its people."
    -- John F. Kennedy 1962

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  6. #64
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    That’s it.

    For everyone debating/arguing my idea of the Fox body Ford , beat this.

    This is why I like them.

    I want mid 11’s on the motor.
    W/a motor that orig came in the car.

    Come on guys, this ain’t rocket science.

    Budget at this point, won’t support it but I should buy this car.

    Called and talked to seller and see zero negatives other than bank acct.

    Humh.....

    Thk u Arizona midlife!




    Last edited by Instigator; 06-14-2020 at 04:59 PM.
    I'd rather be competitive w/junk I built in my garage than win w/stuff I bought.


    I refuse to allow common sense to interfere w/my boat buying decisions.


    Checkmate 16' 140 Johnson
    Hydrostream 17' Vector FrankenRude I
    Laser 480 (?) 21' w/GT 200
    Glastron Carlson Conquest w/XP 2.6
    Glastron Carlson CVX 20 w/XP 2.6
    24' Sonic w/twin 250 Johnsons
    24' Sonic w/twin 250 HO Johnsons
    19' STV River Rocket w/FrankenRude II
    Allison XR 2002 w/Frankenrude II
    Hydrostream 18' V-King w/Frankenrude II

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  8. #65
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    That is a nice car. Hard to pass that up.
    Last edited by CDave; 06-14-2020 at 06:03 PM.
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    93 STV Mod VP/MERC 2.5 200
    -----
    The Bible is life's instruction manual.

    Proverbs 4:18-20

    " For a nation that is afraid to let its people judge the truth and falsehood in an open market is a nation that is afraid of its people."
    -- John F. Kennedy 1962

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  10. #66
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    That be Chaz behind the hood scoop

    Click image for larger version. 

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    Last edited by vnemous; 06-15-2020 at 02:21 PM.

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  12. #67
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    Mid 11’s all motor is pretty easy with a Ford small or big but I’d go Windsor with some decent heads ( not sure what is best bang for buck these days on ford stuff ) run a carb and do a glide with adapter bell and spend the money in two areas 1. Converter 2. Shocks. The stock fox four link is fine so long as the torque boxes are welded up and you get an anti roll bar set up in there your good to go and then some for 11’s all motor.

    My car has driven cross country a few times and will run 11.2 trapping 123-125 pending the day. Only had it tuned up once and this is in full street trim nothing fancy. It’s a bone stock LS3 with a cam and headers in front of a t56 and 3.73 out back. Race weight 3675 never had it dynoed. Ten years been beating the hell out of it and putting the miles on it and it’s still as fast as the first time out. My old bbc and sbc stuff ran fast but rebuild every couple years not because broke because they got slow and worn out. Ls motors tick on a good lot longer in my experience. Ran the sbf stuff a while in the early 90’s and never got into the 12’s with more dough spent. I don’t track much now but I used to all the time and the only people I’ve met who hate ls motors are the ones who I drug down the track and spent twice as much and rebuilt three times as often. Take it for what it is, only my experience you can ignore it or use it it’s completely up to you.

    anyone who brackets knows regardless of the body 95% of the power plants are Chevy motors and transmissions and ford rear ends. Don’t get conned into spending a ton of extra money thinking you need to stick brand by brand unless you wanna spend more money or go slower that is? If your racing it’s about dollars vs return and no TRUE racer passes over more power for less coin. No one

    heck even Dominator in street outlaws runs a bbc and chucks mustang is a small
    block Chevy. They don’t do this because it’s more expensive or less reliable or slower
    Last edited by LakeFever; 06-14-2020 at 07:21 PM.
    Hydrostream dreamin

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  14. #68
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    Points well taken. Thx.

    Dont how much track Vs street will be yet.

    Its been 20 yrs since I sold my Bee so will be like starting new.

    May only track 2 or 3 times a yr.
    When I ran before, all I cared about was time/speed/RT not actually racing. Will that change???
    Who knows.

    Ive read good about the Windsor’s w/good heads.
    Id like to have a stick car but know if I’m going to race, I need an auto and be prepared for a $1500 converter.

    If I can find a rig that runs 11’s on Ford power, that I can maintain/afford, why do I need an LS?
    When writing the check, I will look at everything though.

    When I built my 440 Chrysler I had to dig to get parts/help I wanted, because it was a Chrysler.
    Thats also WHY I wanted to build it.

    We’ll see.

    After perusing racingjunk.com from AZ’s post I was on the wrong site when I searched before cuz there’s a ton of deals on that site!

    Thx again guys.



    Quote Originally Posted by LakeFever View Post
    Mid 11’s all motor is pretty easy with a Ford small or big but I’d go Windsor with some decent heads ( not sure what is best bang for buck these days on ford stuff ) run a carb and do a glide with adapter bell and spend the money in two areas 1. Converter 2. Shocks. The stock fox four link is fine so long as the torque boxes are welded up and you get an anti roll bar set up in there your good to go and then some for 11’s all motor.

    My car has driven cross country a few times and will run 11.2 trapping 123-125 pending the day. Only had it tuned up once and this is in full street trim nothing fancy. It’s a bone stock LS3 with a cam and headers in front of a t56 and 3.73 out back. Race weight 3675 never had it dynoed. Ten years been beating the hell out of it and putting the miles on it and it’s still as fast as the first time out. My old bbc and sbc stuff ran fast but rebuild every couple years not because broke because they got slow and worn out. Ls motors tick on a good lot longer in my experience. Ran the sbf stuff a while in the early 90’s and never got into the 12’s with more dough spent. I don’t track much now but I used to all the time and the only people I’ve met who hate ls motors are the ones who I drug down the track and spent twice as much and rebuilt three times as often. Take it for what it is, only my experience you can ignore it or use it it’s completely up to you.

    anyone who brackets knows regardless of the body 95% of the power plants are Chevy motors and transmissions and ford rear ends. Don’t get conned into spending a ton of extra money thinking you need to stick brand by brand unless you wanna spend more money or go slower that is? If your racing it’s about dollars vs return and no TRUE racer passes over more power for less coin. No one

    heck even Dominator in street outlaws runs a bbc and chucks mustang is a small
    block Chevy. They don’t do this because it’s more expensive or less reliable or slower
    I'd rather be competitive w/junk I built in my garage than win w/stuff I bought.


    I refuse to allow common sense to interfere w/my boat buying decisions.


    Checkmate 16' 140 Johnson
    Hydrostream 17' Vector FrankenRude I
    Laser 480 (?) 21' w/GT 200
    Glastron Carlson Conquest w/XP 2.6
    Glastron Carlson CVX 20 w/XP 2.6
    24' Sonic w/twin 250 Johnsons
    24' Sonic w/twin 250 HO Johnsons
    19' STV River Rocket w/FrankenRude II
    Allison XR 2002 w/Frankenrude II
    Hydrostream 18' V-King w/Frankenrude II

  15. #69
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    You don’t need an LS to run 11’s all motor it’s pretty easy with a good set of heads and a cam to match at 350 cube’ish range. The problem with all your speed goals Using a fox is going to be the transmission. Ford trans are not great, full stop. Almost all serious door slamming drag cars run power glides and the rest run turbo 400’s. By the time you buy the pricey adapter parts to put one behind your Ford motor your costs start to go up. You could run a coyote and then use a 6spd Manual which will run easy 11’s in a fox but cost again is kind of high. With an ls you can use a factory PCM and a 4L80 for very cheap. There is a downside though there are no factory 4L80 converter cores worth building so your into a pricey one there but you can control the shift points and have OD for cruising and it will take whatever power you throw at it they are basically the same as a turbo 400 with an od added. Heavy trans though. The glide really holds all the cards for pure drag racing it’s the goto choice.

    If you want to run the old T5 the fox bodies came with? They are great transmission at 200 hp and out of their comfort zone at 250HP so throw 400 at one and you won’t make a pass without grenading it. There are some aftermarket 5spd bolt on aftermarket transmission that are ok but again very spendy and even then, not as strong as a t56 in stock trim. Converting a t56 to a Windsor is not easy or cheap so here we come full circle on the budget factor again.

    you can find Ls3/M6 full drop outs for five grand and in stock form no cam needed with a sorted out fox chassis you’ll run 11’s, have your manual trans and it will drive and run as reliable as a stock vehicle. I loved my Olds motors back in the day but the cost to get them working was insane. Unfortunately it’s really all about the $
    Hydrostream dreamin

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  17. #70
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    If funds are there a coyote 6spd swap would be ideal for your goals by the sounds of it
    Hydrostream dreamin

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  19. #71
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    Quote Originally Posted by SS Minnow View Post
    Not sure how good the platform is, but I am seeing a bunch of c4's up for sale around here. Most are 3-7k and usually in pretty good shape.
    If you want to go fast, I wouldn't start with a C4. I own one. Fun car, but really needs a LS to be great. Personally mines getting fed nitrous until she blows then is getting an LS.


    www.InjectorService.com
    Call/Text - 204-326-0390



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  21. #72
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    I wish I would done a LS in my old Camaro instead of the 383 stroker. 5 years of beating on it and it needs freshened up. There is a guy in mich that builds some nice ford stuff. Barnett performance https://barnetthighperformance.com/

    83 V-King, 96 Mariner, 200 hp ff block 2.5 w/a 28p choppa
    We gotta clean this liberal mess up, VOTE TRUMP TO MAGA!
    Rebuild thread:
    http://www.screamandfly.com/showthre...-it&highlight=
    http://www.screamandfly.com/showthre...cs.&highlight=
    Videos

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  23. #73
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    Xstream I feel that pain a few times over. Ive had some mighty quick BBC and SBC stuff but they just wear out too fast. Each passing year I was losing a couple mph and a few tenths and the consistency wasnt really there either maybe heat soaked or not as good of a tune up Im not really sure. I am sure that my LS drivetrains run the same et and trap speed no matter how long I run them or how many miles I put on them. My first true LS1 ( that be a 346 LS1 ) Camaro actually picked up et and mph as the miles went higher which most people Ive spoke with say as they break in more they loosen up and spin easier. That hasnt been the case with my LS3 but it sure was with the LS1.

    You can still get stock low mile truck LS junk yard engines from the 07-13 years if you shop but a rebuilt short block is low buck too. We had one redone a couple years ago 2k for a bore, crank grind, new pistons, bearings and assembly. No gaskets though just the machine work and short block assembly. Thats cheap. Also if you do decide to go LS use the 24x older PCM its much easier than the 07+ 58x ECM.

    Or just buy a C5 or even an early 5th gen Camaro. C5 t56 cars run 11's with a good tune up and drag radials. Heres a couple of links that might help these sloppy guys wrote the book on how to go track racing on the CHEAP let me tell ya wow some of the stuff they do I wouldnt dare

    https://www.youtube.com/user/denmah


    This is Ranger who set a lot of stock Corvette records

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ioNkkdQ896E

    This next Ranger vid is a stock C5 ZO6 which is hardly any different than a stock C5 its a baby cam, intake swap, and the "new" head that comes on every single gevIV LS 4.8 on up since so nothing fancy. You can build a much better LS1 for a couple grand in go fast parts and it will go deep 11's pretty easy. I would suggest a fourth gen Camaro but they have all been beaten to hell and back. Plenty of old man putted around C5's still around and for the tenK range you can find good ones.


    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1cWT4kZkYb8
    Last edited by LakeFever; 06-15-2020 at 11:44 AM.
    Hydrostream dreamin

  24. #74
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    Correct

    I believe the hatchback delete from fast back to notch= 200 lbs which we all know = 2/10s.

    One decision which I have not made, but need to is, do I want to build my own motor or buy one and head to the track.

    My 440 Chrysler was the last car motor I built but I turned it 7k every time out of the garage.

    I ported my own (OEM) cast iron 906 heads, installed larger valves, notched the bores for valve Relief etc.
    All iron, all Chrysler.

    I have a OMC V-8 powerhead sitting on a pallet in my shop that is really talking to me when I walk past it.

    So, is it the the finished product I’m after or fun of the journey?

    W/my 440 Chrysler, that was my 4th fast Mopar but first serious project.
    I spent 2 yrs reading everything that was written on the RB Chrysler before I touched it.
    Bought all my parts from Bob Mazzini Racing in Ca.

    I would expect similar for a small block Ford.

    BTW, the car in AZ’s link weighs 2650 so a turbo Pinto motor would put it in the 11’s!


    .

    Quote Originally Posted by FUJIMO View Post
    ...the durability with an LS, as mentioned, is also a big key point. what rebuilds? they are a no brainer with regards to cost and performance. ...always been a fastback mustang guy, no matter the year(s). that was in the old days. but if I recall, with the fox body, correct me if i'm wrong but, wasn't/isn't the reason the notchback is chosen over the fastback/hatchback for racing is, because they were a bit lighter than the hatchbacks? and years ago, much more plentiful?
    Last edited by Instigator; 06-15-2020 at 02:26 PM.
    I'd rather be competitive w/junk I built in my garage than win w/stuff I bought.


    I refuse to allow common sense to interfere w/my boat buying decisions.


    Checkmate 16' 140 Johnson
    Hydrostream 17' Vector FrankenRude I
    Laser 480 (?) 21' w/GT 200
    Glastron Carlson Conquest w/XP 2.6
    Glastron Carlson CVX 20 w/XP 2.6
    24' Sonic w/twin 250 Johnsons
    24' Sonic w/twin 250 HO Johnsons
    19' STV River Rocket w/FrankenRude II
    Allison XR 2002 w/Frankenrude II
    Hydrostream 18' V-King w/Frankenrude II

  25. #75
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    Yeah, little LX no options except the 5.0HO and gears. No air, no power windows, no frills, just those two pipes straight out from under the rear of the car and a 5.0 badge with the wheels and rubber. Hot little car and great price. Police use too
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Profile_Picture.jpg  
    Last edited by FMP; 06-15-2020 at 12:04 PM.

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