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06-01-2020, 11:48 PM #1
How to repair and sharpen chipped chines and strakes?
So the rocket scientist who had my boat before me was bad about letting some of the sharp edges on bottom get chipped. A Shadow is a mod-Vee style hull and the inside edge of my right sponson is boogered up for 14" or so. I need to fill in and build up missing material and then want to get things pretty sharp, too.
I have 2-part System 3 epoxy resin and also Cabosil silica powder so I can mix up some thickened resin if that's the right thing to use. Or, would marine tex be better? Sucks but going to have to do this on my creeper from the bottom side. Do i just sand it, wipe it with acetone, and goop on thickened epoxy and if so, how do i hold it in place until it sets? Any and all suggestions and techniques are appreciated.1990 Shadow bass boat w/ 2.4 200 Merc. Totally resto'd boat and love it!
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06-02-2020, 02:35 AM #2
I don't know about system 3 but I have used West mixed with their 404 powder, it makes a STRONG material. I repaired the chipped up bottom of an STV with that stuuf and it worked very well. Also, if your boat is black you can put black pigment in the mix and it will match well. If you have trouble with the material upside down, simply take a strip of wax paper and tape it over the mixture until it dries.
1970 15' Allison/135 Chrysler stacker
RC Mod-VP Boats
IMPBA District 13
NAMBA District 3
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06-02-2020, 06:48 AM #3
On my old boat I used to use west system before I discovered marine Tex and I would clean very very well with a tooth brush and acetone and blow dry with air hose. Then apply the goop and used packing tape over the top so I could shape it perfectly to the damages area. I repaired a chine like this using west epoxy on my boat after drifting into a rock shoal early one morn fishing and it lasted 15+ years. I just left the tape on and it wears off eventually. Can’t really see the tape either because it’s clear. That said marine Tex is way easier to work with I did use it on my last boat where there were a few small chips. Best thing with the tape is if you put too much on peal it off and fresh tape and go again until the contour is suitable. There’s probably a better way but this was fast and worked for me
Hydrostream dreamin
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06-02-2020, 07:00 AM #4Screaming And Flying!
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I would grind/sand the damage then apply some hardened resin. Let that cure some and apply some filler material about p-nut thickness. Apply sparingly since it will be rock hard. After getting it filled up and sanded to the correct profile, lightly coat it with resin to seal it up against water intrusion. This is just one way of doing it. You could also use gellcote. Same procedure as the epoxy. Either way is good.
Last edited by XstreamVking; 06-02-2020 at 07:02 AM.
83 V-King, 96 Mariner, 200 hp ff block 2.5 w/a 28p choppa
We gotta clean this liberal mess up, VOTE TRUMP TO MAGA!
Rebuild thread:
http://www.screamandfly.com/showthre...-it&highlight=
http://www.screamandfly.com/showthre...cs.&highlight=
Videos
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rgsauger thanked for this post
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06-02-2020, 10:11 PM #5
Thanks fellows. I've got the resin and filler so will at least start there. I appreciate the feedback.
1990 Shadow bass boat w/ 2.4 200 Merc. Totally resto'd boat and love it!
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06-14-2020, 09:23 PM #6
Ha! It worked! I did as advised and the thickened resin worked super for building up the edges and chips. Used wax paper on top and then used a plastic straight edge to move it around as needed. Turned out pretty sweet. Thanks
1990 Shadow bass boat w/ 2.4 200 Merc. Totally resto'd boat and love it!
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LakeFever liked this post
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06-18-2020, 07:22 PM #77000 RPM
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dont use resin, unless its vynlester resin. the old polyester will not bond to old glass. i have used marine tex epoxy for yrs with good results. using the kitty litter epoxy filler as works well, except sanding is a real chore.
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06-18-2020, 11:32 PM #8
I used epoxy resin, only thing I use. Scuffed the bottom, cleaned with acetone, and then painted the area with the resin. Let it sit while I mixed some thickened resin with Cabosil. Put it where I wanted, wax paper over it, the used a plastic spreader to move it and shape it. The next morning...all good!
1990 Shadow bass boat w/ 2.4 200 Merc. Totally resto'd boat and love it!
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06-21-2020, 10:48 PM #9
This week I have to sand it all straight and flush. Will try to take some decent pics
1990 Shadow bass boat w/ 2.4 200 Merc. Totally resto'd boat and love it!
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06-30-2020, 07:27 PM #10Screaming And Flying!
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Flip the boat..... I mnow Jnnncammm latet….Just so sloppy......on a trailer
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Aaronhl liked this post
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07-06-2020, 09:15 PM #11
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10-31-2020, 09:45 AM #12Member
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Old guy told me to mix talcum powder with gel coat to make a great filler for chips and scratches. Made a paste and wiped on, smoothed, lightly sanded and polished after done, looked great and still there.....
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rgsauger thanked for this post
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10-31-2020, 10:59 AM #13
Working against gravity is what makes this so difficult. That’s why I suggested the tape because it holds against gravity and is transparent so you can see how well you filled the area before it cures and shape it with the tape too. This is for small chips mind you.
Hydrostream dreamin
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rgsauger thanked for this postDavid - WI liked this post
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10-31-2020, 12:25 PM #14Screaming And Flying!
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Small strips of waxed formica held in place with tape are the best imo for making a straight fill repair.
83 V-King, 96 Mariner, 200 hp ff block 2.5 w/a 28p choppa
We gotta clean this liberal mess up, VOTE TRUMP TO MAGA!
Rebuild thread:
http://www.screamandfly.com/showthre...-it&highlight=
http://www.screamandfly.com/showthre...cs.&highlight=
Videos
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rgsauger thanked for this post
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11-01-2020, 10:26 AM #15
That's A Great Idea On The Formica strips. Thanks
1990 Shadow bass boat w/ 2.4 200 Merc. Totally resto'd boat and love it!
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