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  1. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by mrichartz View Post
    At least your smart enough to know limitations..
    Does Chapman do them?
    I don't know... think I'll give him a call.

  2. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by Waterdigger View Post
    I don't know... think I'll give him a call.
    I just had my mids done by him really nice job...I'd be surprised if he didn't do lwp cones etc
    LETS GO BRANDON.... LETS GO BRANDON

    Sometimes I talk to myself...then we both just laugh and laugh

    '84 Checkmate Convincor

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  4. #18
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    Not trying to talk you into it.. just in case can't find someone.. Using the epoxy to install them isn't that hard
    Like cuda said when you think your finished mixing your half way done keep going...
    Do it in stages use enough to get it installed on the lower unit. Then one side at a time lay it so you don't have to fight it from sagging. Put plenty on and then just grind and sand smooth.. just keep checking as you go on the profile
    I think Bob's use too even send a template so you had the profile ..

    And worse case you put on way to much on and you have to grind off the excess and have to sand down the epoxy..
    It's only one lower unit not that big of an area
    Just DO NOT use Bondo etc for the finish filling/smoothing..

    But if you don't want exposed hose that's another story if your not good with epoxy etc...your probably right to find someone.. some people just prefer to just get it done and don't blame them
    LETS GO BRANDON.... LETS GO BRANDON

    Sometimes I talk to myself...then we both just laugh and laugh

    '84 Checkmate Convincor

  5. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by Waterdigger View Post
    no hoses
    I hear ya. I have a JC case and a Tooter. Works of art!!!

    Good to see you posting. Haven't heard from you in a while.

  6. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by mrichartz View Post
    Not trying to talk you into it.. just in case can't find someone.. Using the epoxy to install them isn't that hard
    Like cuda said when you think your finished mixing your half way done keep going...
    Do it in stages use enough to get it installed on the lower unit. Then one side at a time lay it so you don't have to fight it from sagging. Put plenty on and then just grind and sand smooth.. just keep checking as you go on the profile
    I think Bob's use too even send a template so you had the profile ..

    And worse case you put on way to much on and you have to grind off the excess and have to sand down the epoxy..
    It's only one lower unit not that big of an area
    Just DO NOT use Bondo etc for the finish filling/smoothing..

    But if you don't want exposed hose that's another story if your not good with epoxy etc...your probably right to find someone.. some people just prefer to just get it done and don't blame them
    I thought the aluminum cone has to be tack welded to existing bullet. I could see a possible OS problem if not straight. I certainly don't blame anyone doing their personal cone GC. I only have three gifts... eatin,drankin and barely keeping a A craft up right.

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  8. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by Forkin' Crazy View Post
    I hear ya. I have a JC case and a Tooter. Works of art!!!

    Good to see you posting. Haven't heard from you in a while.
    Paul your right... JC/Tooter were some of the best!

  9. #22
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    I would say give it a shot, like the other's have said it not a hard job, once you get the cone lined up, should be very easy from there. You'll need to know how to thicken epoxy to be able to put the cone on. This job doesn't only require you to mix epoxy, you will also need to know what to add to it to thicken it, and there are various consistencies you will need to make sure the job looks good. I use fumed silica to thicken the epoxy. The more silica used, the thicker it will become, you might want it very thick at first when you first put the cone on (similar consistency to peanut butter). Then thin it out as you fill the sides in. Even when you thicken the epoxy it can sag, make sure you add more silica if you find the batch you are working on gets thin when you are closer to the bottom of the cup. I also use the West System 410 fairing filler, which is a lot easier to sand then regular silica thickener when you are on lasts applications of epoxy.

    Edit, also forgot to add that I used chopped fiberglass strand pieces with the thicken epoxy to harden it and get good adhesion between the nose cone on the lower unit. Once you build up the sides with the silica and chopped fiberglass, you can just use a harden mixture without the chopped strands to fair out. And be gentle with a 4" grinder and rough paper flap disc to grind down the high spots, they will take forever to sand by hand!
    Last edited by Aaronhl; 05-26-2020 at 07:56 PM.


  10. #23
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    Heres one I had to repair, trying to post pictures below. pretty easy job to do the cone, you have to follow the direction on where to drill the new holes and would be a good idea to plug up the stock water pickup holes with epoxy in the cavity all the way up to the new holes you drilled. Also use a screw with some electrical tape so you can have access to the drain plug.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    Last edited by Aaronhl; 05-26-2020 at 07:50 PM.


  11. #24
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    Nice... looks good! Thanks

  12. #25
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    I had Chapman cone and build one a couple years ago. He did a did fine job and no exposed plumbing. I'd definitely have him do another.
    04 XR 2001 RR/2.5
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    87 Vegas XT
    87 Wellcraft 23 Nova XL
    86 Wellcraft 3400 Gran Sport

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  14. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by Garth91 View Post
    I had Chapman cone and build one a couple years ago. He did a did fine job and no exposed plumbing. I'd definitely have him do another.
    That's what I plan to do. Thanks!

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