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Thread: 1977 Ventura build
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05-27-2020, 10:35 PM #166000 RPM
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Setup correctly that speed will be easy. Ask around about setup and weight placement. You are in for a rush! You will feel like your flying. Be carefull
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05-29-2020, 04:39 PM #17
Express Composites is based in Minneapolis. Very knowledgeable people there. Carries many core varieties. This is where I've bought all my supplies, easy for me as its a 20min drive. 15 yards of 1708 and 5gal of resin would be a good starting point. Probably want 5 yards or more of 1.5oz CSM also.
'78 Hydrostream Viking/'98 225 ProMax
Restoration: https://www.screamandfly.com/showthr...Viking-rebuild
Pictures: https://www.flickr.com/photos/152974...57708863869223
Videos: https://www.youtube.com/tnels
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05-29-2020, 05:00 PM #185000 RPM
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Thanks Tnelsmn, I ended up ordering A bunch of stuff from Jamestown distributors about 2hrs ago. 35yrds of 1708, 7 gallons of resin some cell core and coosa board, I didn’t get any csm... where exactly is the csm used? I see guys mention it all the time in their builds but for what and where?
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05-29-2020, 06:41 PM #19
Yep, that’s a comp hull. I had a 1976 ventura II comp hull. I ran about 80 with a 150 in-line short shaft and upgraded to a 2 L 175 and moved up to about 87. Both with stock lower units. Boat was set up for ski racing. I glassed a plywood floor between the seat box and the bow compartment to make it more comfortable to drive.
18 Talon/2.4 carb SOLD
26 Deck Boat/250 Merc
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05-29-2020, 09:37 PM #20
Chop Strand Mat, it conforms a bit easier than 1708 and has better adhesion, but doesn't have the strength characteristics. I used CSM for bonding the transom boards together, transom to hull, core to hull, and for the final layer over everything to cover any seams of 1708. Also for filling repairs and such.
I'm no expert, I don't do this for a living or anything. Only just completed my first rebuild. I've just spend countless hours researching and reading before and during my build.
Also, very cool factory comp hull!Last edited by tnelsmn; 05-30-2020 at 08:59 AM.
'78 Hydrostream Viking/'98 225 ProMax
Restoration: https://www.screamandfly.com/showthr...Viking-rebuild
Pictures: https://www.flickr.com/photos/152974...57708863869223
Videos: https://www.youtube.com/tnels
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05-30-2020, 07:21 AM #215000 RPM
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How did you know that this was a competition hull just from pictures?? Nice catch.
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05-30-2020, 11:20 AM #22
Looking at the interior pictures, that is how Hydrostream did their comp hulls from the factory, by leaving the taller stringers exposed like that with no flat floor.. And that is a set of their race seats. These hull were raced in the FS class with great success, FS stands for family ski, in which you raced with 2 people in the boat, and the need for 2 seats..
#12 Miller American SST 140 Tunnel hull
1970 Glastron Carlson CT-15, Merc 1350
1977 Hydrostream Ventura II Comp, under construction. Have 1500xs waiting.
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06-13-2020, 06:36 PM #235000 RPM
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Found out Friday that my materials finally shipped so I have not been able to do anything on the boat, maybe I’ll be able to get after it next weekend. Fingers crossed! So I’ve had a lot of time thinking about the motor for it. Is there any reason to not consider a 140hp V4? I think it would be kinda cool. I really want this boat to hit 80mph without a struggle, is 80 possible with a 140? I know it shouldn’t be a problem with a 200hp but how many more mph does 60hp get? I love the way mercs look but there’s something I really like about the big blocky look of an OMC especially the older V6 OMC’s. I know the 140 looper weighs around 365lbs, probably not much less than a V6 Merc, not sure the weight of a OMC V6 but would like to find out in case I go that route. I know I can get a 140 crossflow that’s in good shape for cheep but they are crankshaft rated with smaller gear case vs the 140 looper is propshaft rated and I think came with the V6 gear case. The crossflow is much lighter tho. I read some older threads from a member here named Laker that knows these 140’s inside and out, hopefully he sees this and chimes in.
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06-13-2020, 08:04 PM #24
I loved my cross flow v4 and screamed the hell out of that thing. Premix motor and never had a blip of trouble. Hp was rated at 5200rpm but it spun to 6200 effortlessly. They sound great too
Hydrostream dreamin
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06-13-2020, 08:22 PM #255000 RPM
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06-18-2020, 03:41 PM #265000 RPM
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06-19-2020, 06:43 PM #275000 RPM
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Alright, I got my transom boards cut ( 2 layers of 3/4” Cosa board) and a layer of csm for in between. Also gonna put a layer Of csm over the inside of the transom to thicken up the skin before I put my new transom in. I’ve got a couple of ?’s tho, what side of the csm goes against the existing boat shell, the shiny side or the strandy side, same question goes for the 1708 when I get to that. When I laminate the transom boards together should I drill a bunch of small holes in it first to let the air escape? I’ve seen builds on here where it’s done with holes drilled and without...I’m gonna get some pics later, right now I’m sweating my bag off. Also what works best for applying the resin on? I would assume just get a bunch of cheep throw away paint brushes...
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06-19-2020, 07:08 PM #285000 RPM
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06-19-2020, 09:44 PM #29
CSM looks the same on both sides. 1708 will have the shiny side and the "dull" chop strand side. CSM doesn't matter what way it goes. 1708 think of the chop side as having the better adhesion. When I did my transom I put the chop side to the hull, then scuffed the shiny side after it cured with 36g on a DA, then used CSM to to bond the transom boards to the hull.
Yes drill holes to let air and excess resin escape. I did a 1/8" hole about every inch.
I've been using .99 paint brushes for applying resin. You'll want a finned roller for working out air bubbles in CSM.Last edited by tnelsmn; 06-19-2020 at 09:46 PM.
'78 Hydrostream Viking/'98 225 ProMax
Restoration: https://www.screamandfly.com/showthr...Viking-rebuild
Pictures: https://www.flickr.com/photos/152974...57708863869223
Videos: https://www.youtube.com/tnels
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06-19-2020, 10:08 PM #305000 RPM
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