User Tag List

Page 12 of 13 FirstFirst 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 LastLast
Results 166 to 180 of 188
  1. #166
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    Tourist Trap, Florida
    Posts
    14,685
    Thanks (Given)
    380
    Thanks (Received)
    1269
    Likes (Given)
    5599
    Likes (Received)
    10891
    Mentioned
    2 Post(s)
    Tagged
    1 Thread(s)
    I would stick with the 80.

    83 V-King, 96 Mariner, 200 hp ff block 2.5 w/a 28p choppa
    We gotta clean this liberal mess up, VOTE TRUMP TO MAGA!
    Rebuild thread:
    http://www.screamandfly.com/showthre...-it&highlight=
    http://www.screamandfly.com/showthre...cs.&highlight=
    Videos

  2. #167
    Join Date
    May 2020
    Location
    Wisconsin
    Posts
    304
    Thanks (Given)
    0
    Thanks (Received)
    7
    Likes (Given)
    2
    Likes (Received)
    131
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Quote Originally Posted by XstreamVking View Post
    I would stick with the 80.
    Will do. I’m planning to paint the boat, is 80grit proper for accepting paint primer? I might gel coat the running surface tho. if you look back at one of the pics of my boat on the trailer you’ll see where the bottom is white, this is the area I may just repair and redo the gel in white. Can I add new gel to old gel with the proper prep work?

  3. #168
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    Tourist Trap, Florida
    Posts
    14,685
    Thanks (Given)
    380
    Thanks (Received)
    1269
    Likes (Given)
    5599
    Likes (Received)
    10891
    Mentioned
    2 Post(s)
    Tagged
    1 Thread(s)
    If re-doing the white gel, sand and repair, then use some thinned spray gel as a primer for the whole thing. Sand that smooth with 150 grit and do a finish spray of several coats of gel thinned with styrene out of a decent gun. Gel needs to have wax additive also. 1.8 tip is best and I prefer a HVLP gun. After cure it can be fine sanded and polished if desired.

    83 V-King, 96 Mariner, 200 hp ff block 2.5 w/a 28p choppa
    We gotta clean this liberal mess up, VOTE TRUMP TO MAGA!
    Rebuild thread:
    http://www.screamandfly.com/showthre...-it&highlight=
    http://www.screamandfly.com/showthre...cs.&highlight=
    Videos

  4. #169
    Join Date
    May 2020
    Location
    Wisconsin
    Posts
    304
    Thanks (Given)
    0
    Thanks (Received)
    7
    Likes (Given)
    2
    Likes (Received)
    131
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Quote Originally Posted by XstreamVking View Post
    If re-doing the white gel, sand and repair, then use some thinned spray gel as a primer for the whole thing. Sand that smooth with 150 grit and do a finish spray of several coats of gel thinned with styrene out of a decent gun. Gel needs to have wax additive also. 1.8 tip is best and I prefer a HVLP gun. After cure it can be fine sanded and polished if desired.
    Ok thanks. I’ll probably hit you up with a few more ?’s about that when I get to the bottom, I’m kinda bouncing around right now. I get sick of doing one thing after awhile on the boat then start something new. Lol.

  5. #170
    Join Date
    Jun 2018
    Location
    Floating around
    Posts
    3,912
    Thanks (Given)
    464
    Thanks (Received)
    414
    Likes (Given)
    3340
    Likes (Received)
    2433
    Mentioned
    1 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Most paints look decent with surface prep of 320 dry or 400 wet. Most quality 2k epoxy primers will fill 180 but no courser than that or over time it will sink and you’ll see scratch lines under the paint

    regarding the 2k primer I would do any fairing ( body work ) over the glass and prime the whole deck before paint with a really high quality brand primer ( sikkens, basf, ppg etc ) and then prep for paint with 180/240/320 adding more 2k if need be. Don’t be afraid to use lots of 2k it fills voids and blocks out all imperfections if your patient. Clean, clean, clean all surfaces first. Soap and water then chemical. I like to use reducer but it’s a bit pricey. There are wax and silicone removers paint prep cleaners specifically for this too.
    Last edited by LakeFever; 07-07-2021 at 12:45 PM.
    Hydrostream dreamin

  6. Likes XstreamVking liked this post
  7. #171
    Join Date
    May 2020
    Location
    Wisconsin
    Posts
    304
    Thanks (Given)
    0
    Thanks (Received)
    7
    Likes (Given)
    2
    Likes (Received)
    131
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Quote Originally Posted by LakeFever View Post
    Most paints look decent with surface prep of 320 dry or 400 wet. Most quality 2k epoxy primers will fill 180 but no courser than that or over time it will sink and you’ll see scratch lines under the paint

    regarding the 2k primer I would do any fairing ( body work ) over the glass and prime the whole deck before paint with a really high quality brand primer ( sikkens, basf, ppg etc ) and then prep for paint with 180/240/320 adding more 2k if need be. Don’t be afraid to use lots of 2k it fills voids and blocks out all imperfections if your patient. Clean, clean, clean all surfaces first. Soap and water then chemical. I like to use reducer but it’s a bit pricey. There are wax and silicone removers paint prep cleaners specifically for this too.
    Is 2k a brand of epoxy primer or just a general term for epoxy primer?

  8. #172
    Join Date
    May 2020
    Location
    Wisconsin
    Posts
    304
    Thanks (Given)
    0
    Thanks (Received)
    7
    Likes (Given)
    2
    Likes (Received)
    131
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Quote Originally Posted by XstreamVking View Post
    If re-doing the white gel, sand and repair, then use some thinned spray gel as a primer for the whole thing. Sand that smooth with 150 grit and do a finish spray of several coats of gel thinned with styrene out of a decent gun. Gel needs to have wax additive also. 1.8 tip is best and I prefer a HVLP gun. After cure it can be fine sanded and polished if desired.
    After reading through your reply again I have a ? So after I do the primer gel then sanding with 150 and am ready to add the layers of gel over that, do I have to add layer after layer while it’s wet or can I add a layer, come back another day and do more over the cured gel? In other words, do I have to do it all in one shot to avoid sanding between coats.

  9. #173
    Join Date
    May 2020
    Location
    Wisconsin
    Posts
    304
    Thanks (Given)
    0
    Thanks (Received)
    7
    Likes (Given)
    2
    Likes (Received)
    131
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Lakefever, when I googled 2k epoxy primer this is one of the brands that popped upClick image for larger version. 

Name:	FFBA5E10-06E7-48EA-87D1-70DB29E49C13.png 
Views:	4 
Size:	2.08 MB 
ID:	490044this happens to be the place and the brand (total boat) of all the materials I’ve used for the build thus far.

  10. #174
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    Tourist Trap, Florida
    Posts
    14,685
    Thanks (Given)
    380
    Thanks (Received)
    1269
    Likes (Given)
    5599
    Likes (Received)
    10891
    Mentioned
    2 Post(s)
    Tagged
    1 Thread(s)
    You want to shoot a coat, let it set up some and hit it again. Maybe a coat every 1/2 hr.-1 hr. Min. 3 coats. Let it cure overnight and yes, you will have to sand again.

    83 V-King, 96 Mariner, 200 hp ff block 2.5 w/a 28p choppa
    We gotta clean this liberal mess up, VOTE TRUMP TO MAGA!
    Rebuild thread:
    http://www.screamandfly.com/showthre...-it&highlight=
    http://www.screamandfly.com/showthre...cs.&highlight=
    Videos

  11. #175
    Join Date
    May 2020
    Location
    Wisconsin
    Posts
    304
    Thanks (Given)
    0
    Thanks (Received)
    7
    Likes (Given)
    2
    Likes (Received)
    131
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Quote Originally Posted by XstreamVking View Post
    You want to shoot a coat, let it set up some and hit it again. Maybe a coat every 1/2 hr.-1 hr. Min. 3 coats. Let it cure overnight and yes, you will have to sand again.
    Ok, so when I get to this part of work on the boat and plan out enough time in the day I should be able to do the minimum of 3 coats, (maybe more if I want) then the only sanding I should have to do is the final sanding to get it to shine... is my thinking correct? This is if I follow the directions you explained to me... Did I mention I hate sanding

  12. #176
    Join Date
    Jun 2018
    Location
    Floating around
    Posts
    3,912
    Thanks (Given)
    464
    Thanks (Received)
    414
    Likes (Given)
    3340
    Likes (Received)
    2433
    Mentioned
    1 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    My old school stripes are showing here. 2K is a type of epoxy primer that is hard and strong and is excellent long term surfacer because a quality one will not shrink. Shrink is what affects bond and also what shows all the body work patches and scratches under the paint over time.

    Nowadays it’s all water base stuff and that’s long after my time really so I might be sending ya on a wild goose chase. Best thing to do is find a pro local auto refinishing supplier who sells name brand product and tell them what your doing and if the supplier is good? They will be able to guide you through all the product and steps you need to take. They can spec sanding grit for every step of the way too.

    sanding is 95% of the work unfortunately. I don’t mind it, you just have to accept its hours and hours of effort and you can plan out all your other work while sanding. It doesn’t take a lot of brains just a lot of time
    Hydrostream dreamin

  13. #177
    Join Date
    May 2020
    Location
    Wisconsin
    Posts
    304
    Thanks (Given)
    0
    Thanks (Received)
    7
    Likes (Given)
    2
    Likes (Received)
    131
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Quote Originally Posted by LakeFever View Post
    My old school stripes are showing here. 2K is a type of epoxy primer that is hard and strong and is excellent long term surfacer because a quality one will not shrink. Shrink is what affects bond and also what shows all the body work patches and scratches under the paint over time.

    Nowadays it’s all water base stuff and that’s long after my time really so I might be sending ya on a wild goose chase. Best thing to do is find a pro local auto refinishing supplier who sells name brand product and tell them what your doing and if the supplier is good? They will be able to guide you through all the product and steps you need to take. They can spec sanding grit for every step of the way too.

    sanding is 95% of the work unfortunately. I don’t mind it, you just have to accept its hours and hours of effort and you can plan out all your other work while sanding. It doesn’t take a lot of brains just a lot of time
    Yep, if it was easy everybody would do it. I don’t know if that total boat stuff I posted is water based or not, I’ll have to call and find out. I had a guy that owns a body shop do some work on a truck for me, I got to know him pretty good so I can talk to him and see if he can get me some of the stuff your talking about. Do you know if the epoxy you recommend works below the waterline? Some of it will be below the waterline...

  14. #178
    Join Date
    Jun 2018
    Location
    Floating around
    Posts
    3,912
    Thanks (Given)
    464
    Thanks (Received)
    414
    Likes (Given)
    3340
    Likes (Received)
    2433
    Mentioned
    1 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    I don’t think any of the auto paints are rated for below the water line but I don’t think you’ll have much problem unless it’s sitting in the drink for days on end. I used RM product and their 2k and base/clear was all urethane products. It’s quite resilient and the 2K primer RM made was called dp20 and that stuff is hard as a rock and twice as tough. The only downside to it was it’s extremely hard to sand. Sikkens 2k primer was much easier to sand and was also excellent at resisting shrink although I don’t think it was as tough as the RM primer.
    Hydrostream dreamin

  15. #179
    Join Date
    May 2020
    Location
    Wisconsin
    Posts
    304
    Thanks (Given)
    0
    Thanks (Received)
    7
    Likes (Given)
    2
    Likes (Received)
    131
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Quote Originally Posted by LakeFever View Post
    I don’t think any of the auto paints are rated for below the water line but I don’t think you’ll have much problem unless it’s sitting in the drink for days on end. I used RM product and their 2k and base/clear was all urethane products. It’s quite resilient and the 2K primer RM made was called dp20 and that stuff is hard as a rock and twice as tough. The only downside to it was it’s extremely hard to sand. Sikkens 2k primer was much easier to sand and was also excellent at resisting shrink although I don’t think it was as tough as the RM primer.
    If you look back at a pic of my boat,everything that is already white I’m gonna fix like xstream explained to me, everything that is currently red gel coat is going to be painted.

  16. #180
    Join Date
    Jun 2018
    Location
    Floating around
    Posts
    3,912
    Thanks (Given)
    464
    Thanks (Received)
    414
    Likes (Given)
    3340
    Likes (Received)
    2433
    Mentioned
    1 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Looks like a lot of the paint is going below the waterline. For that your best to stick with a paint made for this like awlgrip or imron. There’s others I’m not all that familiar but I have used imron in the past a few times it’s easy to use and holds up extremely well. The one hull we painted was about 35 years ago and it still looks great. It’s a summer boat but it does sit in fresh water all season every year. No peeling. It’s an aluminum boat, we used the correct primer the supplier suggested. That’s the key really you want all the layers of putty, primer, paint and any clears to be long term compatible. Getting paint to stick is easy, getting paint to hold shine and not shrink and lose bond over the long haul is tricky
    Hydrostream dreamin

  17. Likes tnelsmn liked this post
Page 12 of 13 FirstFirst 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 LastLast

Similar Threads

  1. 1977 Ventura II Race Boat For Sale
    By JWTjr. in forum Hulls up to 20'
    Replies: 9
    Last Post: 09-30-2014, 04:59 PM
  2. Best workstand to build powerheads? Build? Buy?
    By Zoomba in forum Technical Discussion
    Replies: 6
    Last Post: 03-10-2014, 07:45 PM
  3. How fast?1977 ventura II
    By busa198 in forum General Boating Discussion
    Replies: 6
    Last Post: 03-01-2010, 08:04 PM
  4. Build better and Safer Build Union
    By SnakeBit in forum The Scream And Fly Lounge
    Replies: 38
    Last Post: 09-06-2008, 05:00 PM
  5. Ventura set up ?s
    By zzzman in forum Props, Setup, and Rigging
    Replies: 1
    Last Post: 11-15-2006, 07:41 PM

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •