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  1. #136
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    Quote Originally Posted by Hippie459MN View Post
    Them T-Nuts should have went in from the bottom. They will pull out very easily from the top like that. Ask me how I know. LoL
    yes I thought of doing that, I figured if they loosen up on the underside and I go to pull a bolt the nut will fall to the bottom of the seatbox and I will be stuck listening to an annoying nut rolling around under my but. I actually drilled the holes slightly larger just so the teeth on t-nut still could dig in and filled it with PL glue. On the top side I plan to feather them out with thickened epoxy and glass completely over them them, then retap the holes. If they don’t hold up I have some aluminum angle I’ll use to make a rail bracket with heavy duty stainless screws. Actually I kinda like this idea...

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  3. #137
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    Click image for larger version. 

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ID:	485991 Gonna glass in the foot throttle block today. what a pain in the but figuring out a comfortable place for it, I dicked around over an hour last night moving it back and forth and side to side before setting on where it sits, I have it cocked at a slight angle so the cable won’t interfere with the corner of the seat box. Added some glass under the rigging holes, gonna eliminate them. Don’t see a reason to keep them, I plan to use hydraulic steering and should be able to route everything under the deck and up thru the splashwell delete, plus one less place for water to get in. Also filed in the top of the knees where the rear seat sits so they follow the angle of the seat, didn’t realize this when I made them way back when.

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  5. #138
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ID:	486014Hot foot block is in, made a shifter block and did a little more build up on the splashwell delete and old rigging holes. I’m gonna do most of the glassing on the shifter block on the saw horses then tab it in.

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  7. #139
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ID:	486402 Gots me some more pieces to the puzzle ( nosecone kit).

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  9. #140
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    Attachment 487373Anyone know how thick I can go with this fairing compound? I’m using it on my splashwell delete, I should’ve ran my plywood higher than I’d did so now I’ve got to build it up anywhere from 3/8” to 1/4” as it tapers back to the transom to match the sides of the original splashwell... already have 2 layers of 1708 on it.

  10. #141
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ID:	487374Just got this 28p chopper for my 235 that’s going on the boat. It’s mint aside from being dusty from sitting in the guys barn. Not bad for 150.00 shipping included, DAH must’ve got ahold of it also as it’s stamped on the side.

  11. #142
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jmr1974 View Post
    Click image for larger version. 

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ID:	487374Just got this 28p chopper for my 235 that’s going on the boat. It’s mint aside from being dusty from sitting in the guys barn. Not bad for 150.00 shipping included, DAH must’ve got ahold of it also as it’s stamped on the side.
    Small ear, looks like John added some cup. Be interesting to see how that works.
    Living in the Freedom provided by Bud Conner and his fellow warriors.
    R.I.P. my Heathen Brother






  12. #143
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    Quote Originally Posted by transomstand View Post
    Small ear, looks like John added some cup. Be interesting to see how that works.
    so the guy I bought the prop from said he thought it came off a merc, my plan was to get it rehubbed for my OMC. I didn’t realize the splines on the prop would even go on the OMC prop shaft without rehubbing it... in the 1st pic is the sequence of how the washers go without the prop, 2nd pic shows prop on shaft all the way bottomed out on large washer behind prop, 3rd pic shows front of shaft sticking out with the splines. the front washer is to large OD to slide in, do I need different washers for this chopper style prop or do I actually need to rehub it?

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  14. #144
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    it should work, just need to find the right thrust washer and use some spacers on the nut side
    1973 Viper - sold
    1978 Viking - sold
    1995 XB02

  15. #145
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    looks like it was drilled out for an OMC already too
    1973 Viper - sold
    1978 Viking - sold
    1995 XB02

  16. #146
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    For a 3/8-1/4'' fill job I would prefer to bond down some 1/4'' divinnycell foam. Fair to within 1/8'' and run a layer of 1708 over it. If you want to use a lot of filler, (a gallon?) fair with filler to 1/16'' and cover with 1.5 oz mat.

    83 V-King, 96 Mariner, 200 hp ff block 2.5 w/a 28p choppa
    We gotta clean this liberal mess up, VOTE TRUMP TO MAGA!
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  17. #147
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    Quote Originally Posted by XstreamVking View Post
    For a 3/8-1/4'' fill job I would prefer to bond down some 1/4'' divinnycell foam. Fair to within 1/8'' and run a layer of 1708 over it. If you want to use a lot of filler, (a gallon?) fair with filler to 1/16'' and cover with 1.5 oz mat.
    I like your first option, all I need is a 2’x3’ piece of it. I’ll see what sizes the place I’ve ordered all my stuff from offer. Hopefully shipping isn’t outrageous for just one piece. Thanks.

  18. #148
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    Quote Originally Posted by XstreamVking View Post
    For a 3/8-1/4'' fill job I would prefer to bond down some 1/4'' divinnycell foam. Fair to within 1/8'' and run a layer of 1708 over it. If you want to use a lot of filler, (a gallon?) fair with filler to 1/16'' and cover with 1.5 oz mat.
    How about core cell grid scored? It comes in thicknesses of 1/8” and up, I used core cell for my core. Divinnycell is out of stock like everything else in this world today. I’m not even sure core cell is in stock, it says (limited stock)so I’m calling them tomorrow.

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  20. #149
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    Quote Originally Posted by rjdubiel View Post
    looks like it was drilled out for an OMC already too
    Sweet, looks like I did alright on the purchase. Thanks.

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  22. #150
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    Haven’t worked on the boat in a month. Ended that drought yesterday.Click image for larger version. 

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ID:	488343seat box,shifter block and rear seat toe kick are complete with a layer of 1708 and a layer of csm on them. Next I need to finish putting a layer of csm on the hull from the seat box to the back of the boat, from the front of the seat box to the front of the boat the hull is complete. Also need to make a block to mount the battery on.

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