stripped spark plug hole - can it be repaired other than help coil?

[eli]

Whos cranking them plugs in like enough to strip threads

[Instigator]

The new cars say the plugs are good good for a 100k.
Try removing one at 100k.

Especially in a salt environment.

Whos cranking them plugs in like enough to strip threads

[Dave Strong]

The new cars say the plugs are good good for a 100k.
Try removing one at 100k.

Especially in a salt environment.

We started recommending changing at 50 or at least pull and put some high temp antiseize on them.

Dave

[Chaz]

I think what you talking about is “Lock Stitch”. It is the only method approved by Ford for warranty repairs on the spark plugs that blow out. The proper alloys match the Ford heads and expand and contract at the same rate.

I have a 4.6 in my truck and a 6.8L Triton V-10 in my motorhome. My friend at NAPA asked, do you want the tool now or would you rather come back and get it ???
Out of 18 plugs, I broke …. none. A couple I was worried about … but the whole thing came out as one piece ..
This is what I was warned .. would / could happen … >

[Scream And Fly]

@bill mason , I just wanted to say hi Hope you're well buddy.
Greg

[eli]

Thout we were talking boat heads ,i changed my plugs in my ram at 75 k put in fine wire ngk to hope never do it again its at 166 k now runs fine yet truckmis 15 yr old lots of rust so i,m good

[gfinch]

Thanks Chaz for the pic's of the enemy(spark plugs). I too have a motor home with the V-10. 30,000 on a 2004. I'm not looking forward to replacing the plugs.

[Chaz]

Thout we were talking boat heads ,

Here's the title .. make of it what you will :

Thread: stripped spark plug hole - can it be repaired other than help coil?

i changed my plugs in my ram at 75 k put in fine wire ngk to hope never do it again its at 166 k now runs fine yet truckmis 15 yr old lots of rust so i,m good

Don't look now .. but you talked about your truck ..

Unless your boat is swinging from davits behind you home on the water, your truck is a very important tool in boating ..

gfinch

Thanks Chaz for the pic's of the enemy(spark plugs). I too have a motor home with the V-10. 30,000 on a 2004. I'm not looking forward to replacing the plugs.

They are a weird bird indeed .. one balance shaft up top . Plugs that go in thru the intake face .
Chamber quench area (what little it has) is on the "wrong side" of the head. But by doing so, they were able to stand the intake valve and port all most straight up . That and with the peanut sized exhaust port .. they make (as you know) a mountain of torque off the bottom and mid range cruise.
What I did with mine was gunked the engine down, blow any remaining road grime off. I pulled the wires off, shot PB Blaster in the holes put the wires back on , let it run for 30 - 40 seconds to try and expand the aluminum ( I doubt it did anything but make me feel a little better) broke the plug loose ,, worked it back and forth a little .. then turned them out.
I kind of went about it with the mind set that if I took my time and keep side loading to a minimum .. that I would only break a few. I guess I got lucky that I didn't have a lot of rust / carbon on the lower body portion of the plug.








Should fit a Verado mid .. standing on end ...

​

[XstreamVking]

Warm it up some and just pull them plugs with an impact gun.

[BarryStrawn]

There is also a new tool out that goes through the plug hole, then expands to cut threads as you extract it and the shavings to be able to do one w/o pulling a head.
Probably designed for the new hi tech car motors that are so labor intensive.

Like a grand to put a water pump on a new Ford 4 or 6 banger!
I think 8 or 9 hrs flat rate!

Hi Gary - Like this? https://www.amazon.com/Powerbuilt-64.../dp/B0014FGVVW They work well when someone has started to crossthread a plug and buggered the first thread. Similar results to pulling the head and running a tap or chaser in from the chamber side. Much easier.

But not going to help if all the threads are gone.

[powerabout]

Here's the title .. make of it what you will :

Thread: stripped spark plug hole - can it be repaired other than help coil?

Don't look now .. but you talked about your truck ..

Unless your boat is swinging from davits behind you home on the water, your truck is a very important tool in boating ..



They are a weird bird indeed .. one balance shaft up top . Plugs that go in thru the intake face .
Chamber quench area (what little it has) is on the "wrong side" of the head. But by doing so, they were able to stand the intake valve and port all most straight up . That and with the peanut sized exhaust port .. they make (as you know) a mountain of torque off the bottom and mid range cruise.
What I did with mine was gunked the engine down, blow any remaining road grime off. I pulled the wires off, shot PB Blaster in the holes put the wires back on , let it run for 30 - 40 seconds to try and expand the aluminum ( I doubt it did anything but make me feel a little better) broke the plug loose ,, worked it back and forth a little .. then turned them out.
I kind of went about it with the mind set that if I took my time and keep side loading to a minimum .. that I would only break a few. I guess I got lucky that I didn't have a lot of rust / carbon on the lower body portion of the plug.








Should fit a Verado mid .. standing on end ...

​[/INDENT][/FONT][/COLOR][/LEFT]

So now Ford replaced that with a pushrod engine ( copied the LS Chev..lol)

[Instigator]

That’s it.

Thx Barry and hope all is well your way.

Hi Gary - Like this? https://www.amazon.com/Powerbuilt-64.../dp/B0014FGVVW They work well when someone has started to crossthread a plug and buggered the first thread. Similar results to pulling the head and running a tap or chaser in from the chamber side. Much easier.

But not going to help if all the threads are gone.

[Instigator]

That’s what the techs were telling me.

They said a 3/8” impact pulls them right out.

Warm it up some and just pull them plugs with an impact gun.

[Chaz]

So now Ford replaced that with a pushrod engine ( copied the LS Chev..lol)

Ifin you were ever on the road for months at a time , 1500 miles from home and found yourself in the pits , WalMart parking lot , etc , needing to change a few pistons , a tuliped exhaust valve .. or even just a burned head gasket … you would appreciate the importance of a two piece pan , dry sump oil pump , front mount distributor and of course , push rod's …





The next race or two would be over before you would get this engineering marvel apart , repaired and back in one pile ...







Then my favorite , the late model cam phase gear ...



What do the "experts" think of cam chain guides ...

Chaz = thinkin , you'll never get 1.125" of lift , 400 lbs on the seat and 900 over the nose with this set-up ..

[powerabout]

pushrod engine is the way to go but I can do without a distributor, then its real simple on the road maybe even a Duramax??