Merc XR2 upgrading from rectifier to regulator - advice needed.

[tlwjkw]

thats one reason it didn't say around but 3 yrs. before design change.. it would get air bubbles in tha water jacket and overheat.. tried ta fix it by adding tha hose from top of block ta poppet but didn't help that much........

[tristanlee85]

he's still runnin' tha water cooled reg.. he jus put up a pic of what he thought he needed to replace it but thought he only needed one!

So are you saying ditch my water cooled one and get 2 of these? https://www.amazon.com/815279T-regul.../dp/B01JODOF3G If not the right part, do you have a part number for the 16A version? I couldn't find anything but the CDI version of https://www.ebay.com/p/2186722992.

[FORBESAUTO]

So are you saying ditch my water cooled one and get 2 of these? https://www.amazon.com/815279T-regul.../dp/B01JODOF3G If not the right part, do you have a part number for the 16A version? I couldn't find anything but the CDI version of https://www.ebay.com/p/2186722992.

Told ya what to do waaay back on post #6, ditch the water cooled crap and get two new style regs

[FORBESAUTO]

To the OP; your XR2 should have a 16 amp charging system. If you're running lots of expensive electronics your charging system is working at full capacity to keep all that stuff running but it's still just a 16 amp system. Adding a 20 amp regulator isn't going to accomplish anything except costing extra money and adding another failure point...

You should track your battery voltage when you're running all those electronics. Are you using more amps than the system puts out? In other words discharging the battery with the charging system working at 100%. If you are then you should be looking to upgrade your XR2 to 40 amp charging or upgrading your power to a newer motor that has 40 amp charging standard.

Just my two cents...

The OP was talking about a 16 amp system, good advise to him. But we have since changed gears to a 40amp system.

[tristanlee85]

Told ya what to do waaay back on post #6, ditch the water cooled crap and get two new style regs

I saw that post, but what I am trying to figure out is the part number for the "new style regs". They look the same to me yet the price is completely different.

[FORBESAUTO]

Any of the dual 20 amp regs will work, the price differences are mainly quality differences (made in China/Taiwan and such). I’d be real careful with cheapos, in my opinion none of em are real great, you just gotta try and get the least bad. You get one shortin out and before ya know it your stator and wires are burnt to a crisp or even worse a fire. Not a good idea to skimp on them, i would go with quality, in the long run it will cost ya. I would suggest to not use any of the crimp on or bullet connectors supplied with any of em. Any resistance causes heat, then will lead to failure. I personally solder mine in. Also make sure the regulators are bolted up tight and case grounded good. Not sure on this conversion, but a good chance CDI makes a bracket kit to install them like they do for the 16amp conversion, I would check on it for sure.

[rgsauger]

Forbes pretty much nailed it. I wouldn't go with a $13 one but I also didn't pay $130. I think mine were $30 each so. But yes, that's the general idea. Two of the little combo pucks

[tristanlee85]

This is the pack of 2 I was looking at ($33 each): https://www.ebay.com/itm/VOLTAGE-REG...oAAOSwr~lYsIIR

Corresponds to the CDI 194-8825K part number which is used on the 16A systems. And I can machine an aluminum plate to cover the water jacket and mount these right to it.

[rgsauger]

You're getting close. Some will have lifetime warranty. Find one that corresponds to a pro max. Great idea on that replacement plate.

[rgsauger]

I just looked again and those are probably as good as any. I used a 6 wire but 5 is fine if the case is grounded when you mount it. Show pics on your plate.

[Steve2ManyBoats]

To finish out the original purpose of this thread, I tried a standard 6 wire square 20 amp voltage regulator as a replacement for the rectifier on my XR2. Worked just fine.

Thanks for the helpful advice folks.

Steve2ManyBoats.

[rgsauger]

To finish out the original purpose of this thread, I tried a standard 6 wire square 20 amp voltage regulator as a replacement for the rectifier on my XR2. Worked just fine.

Thanks for the helpful advice folks.

Steve2ManyBoats.

Thanks for letting us know and glad it all worked out for you!

[tristanlee85]

To finish out the original purpose of this thread, I tried a standard 6 wire square 20 amp voltage regulator as a replacement for the rectifier on my XR2. Worked just fine.

Thanks for the helpful advice folks.

Steve2ManyBoats.

Do you have a picture with how you wired this? I just got mine in the mail today and trying to do the same. My current rectifier has both gray and purple wire coming from it. The regulators only have a gray. But each regulator now has 2 red wires, 4 total since I have 2 regs. Just not sure which wires can remain disconnected.

I assume all 4 reds go to the post that feeds positive back to the starter/battery. Only 1 of the grays should be needed for I assume TACH reading. But I am not sure what to do with this original purple wire.

[pjbrownva]

To finish out the original purpose of this thread, I tried a standard 6 wire square 20 amp voltage regulator as a replacement for the rectifier on my XR2. Worked just fine.

Thanks for the helpful advice folks.

Steve2ManyBoats.

Glad it worked out for you. When I changed a 16 amp system to a 40 amp, I also made a plate out of 1/4 aluminum. I first made a template out of cardboard, then used it to cut and drill the aluminum. It's not pretty... I hacked at it some. but it's bolted tightly to the block at the top where the cold water comes up from the water pump, and it provides what I believe is a decent amount of heat transfer to provide pretty good cooling for the 2 voltage regulators... I don't know how much, if any cooling they require, but heat certainly can't be GOOD for them, so cooling certainly isn't bad. :-)

[pjbrownva]

My water-cooled reg literally caught on FIRE!!! Scared the chit out of me. 2.5 empty fire extinguishers and it was still blazing. Battery was feeding it power to a direct short. Look at how a 40 amp is set up on a pro max with dual regs

@rgsauger , I guess you learned, with an electrical fire, always cut the power first, then try putting it out.

I once was trailering my boat through Manhattan, about to head into the Holland tunnel, when my mota caught on fire!! It turns out the power cable that was extended and raised because of a jacking plate rubbed against the block and shorted to ground. Luckily, I had tools handy, so I cut the power, then doused it with H20. (I was too cheap to "waste" a good fire extinguisher on this... plus there's such a big mess to clean up after you discharge one of those chemical bottles !... but the fire extinguisher was my plan B if the water didn't work).

I'm *most* thankful that the fire happened BEFORE I was in the tunnel. This was around 2003, and in the post 9/11 environment, I'd probably still be held at GITMO, for being accused of trying to blow up NYC with a boat bomb that failed!!! (hehe!!! ).

BTW, only half-joking about the ugly fate I might have suffered if it caught fire in the tunnel!

My first thought was .... what idiot didn't install any fuses... then upon research, I learned that your starter motor draws so much power that you CAN'T put in a fuse big enough to protect it.

Lesson learned. Always have a battery disconnect switch, and ALWAYS turn it off when towing!!!!

:-) Glad to be free!!!

-Phil