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  1. #16
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    You are right on the money, but its never going to last. Sand it down flat with 1000# and clear it!

  2. #17
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    The factory doesnt use clear. they know better. once the clear starts to go, you got a huge job ahead. polyurethane imo is the worst, for fl. anyway.

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  4. #18
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    I understand the resistance to use clear coat, if it is not applied correctly and very high quality, high solids product it will fail! The reason gel-coat chalks and looses its luster is because it has no UV resistance, many boats are finished with a clear, weather it's gel or urethane.

  5. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by KIRCHNER View Post
    listen to TOMANYTOYS sand,sand,sand 2500,3000, no clear. i did a 1958 whaler,was just about white, now its smurf gloss blue. its not easy to find a slow speed buffer. the pros tell me 1200 rpm. im doing a 38 yr old windshield.that is fogged over almost done with 3000 paper, now buff,
    Once it's beautiful again, cover and protect it from the elements when not using it.

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  7. #20
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    I’m not gonna argue with anybody on this but from my own experience......
    progressive wet sanding to 3000 then high quality compound & polish. Once it looks like an absolute work of art then wax / sealer.
    Personal preference, for a wax / sealer.....3M or Shurhold.
    I’ve used both with great results.
    If you’re gonna clear coat, don’t skimp, you get what you pay for and it better be good or you’re gonna have a pile of work to fix it.....again.

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  9. #21
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    I don't want to argue either, you are correct, progressive sanding then polishing will usually bring out a nice finish, wax does have some resistance to uv but once the properties in gel are lost it won't stay. I own a custom paint and auto body shop and have been doing this for over 40 years, I do a lot of work on custom boats and equipment that are used in very harsh environments and have had great success with clears, it is also way easier to sand down the top deck and clear it that all the time sanding and polishing, I can prep and clear a deck of an 18' boat in about 12 hours and be confident that it will last years, and I hate all that sanding and compounding! lol, Good luck with ever method you use i am sure with dedication you will have a great looking board!

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  11. #22
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    Watched an older cut and buff expert bring an old 23' back from the dead ugly. Can't remember what it was, doesn't matter. Wasn't the same boat after five days, couldn't have believed it. But that gel took what he gave it and he knew how deep to cut.
    Last edited by FMP; 05-07-2020 at 09:25 PM.

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  13. #23
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    Hey Guys, I haven't seen much on the Ceramic Coatings that's taking over the car finish industry but I used Gyeon Pure which is for auto paint on a section and ended up coating the whole boat. UV A UV B protection and the finish is very slick. It's advertised to have 80% SIO2 content and 18 month warranty on your car paint.
    I would use their Gyeon Gel Coat specific coating, they were one of the first coatings I was aware of and are rated near the top in results.

    Attachment 465229 Click image for larger version. 

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    I used these to buff it out and probably spent 30-40 hours to get it here, DA and rotary and wet sanding. I'm so tired of buffing gel coat. I bought it to use on my MDX and had this left over. Again, I'd buy the Gel specific if I didn't have this already.
    Attachment 465230
    It can't be layered and it has to stay clean and dry for 24 hours after application. It takes 4-5 days to fully cure and you'll come back and find it looking shinier than a couple of days earlier. It's a very thin so it can still be scuffed, designed for chemical resistance more than anything. Water spots can't etch through it. There will be a small amount of dried particles on the surface but no etching.
    You must get it the way you want it because any scratches will be locked in.
    Good Luck dtmeeks on what you do....
    1991 Voyager XT pulled out to get it together after 10 years or so.
    Click image for larger version. 

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    https://gyeonquartz.com/product/gelcoat/
    Last edited by Robert; 05-08-2020 at 12:48 PM.
    Robert Jackson

    1991 Voyager XT 250 HPDI

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  15. #24
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    Thanks to everyone for the input. I believe that I am just going to sand and buff for now. The black is just too hot especially for my tender feet and the bottom of my arms so I believe its getting a brighter paint this winter, which will answer all the questions.
    92 Mirage Ski Racer
    86 Laser LTV Bass
    82 Hydrostream Vandal Comp
    ^(project that needs a new home)

  16. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by dtmeeks View Post
    Thanks to everyone for the input. I believe that I am just going to sand and buff for now. The black is just too hot especially for my tender feet and the bottom of my arms so I believe its getting a brighter paint this winter, which will answer all the questions.
    Sounds like an even better idea!

  17. #26
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    Robert, the ceramic coating is a real game changer as far as finish protection goes. Once you get it right the ceramic will really help, especially with the UV. Look up Wizards products, they make some of the finest products on the market today.

  18. #27
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    Agreed on coatings, Gyeon Pure is around 80% SIO2 near the highest content in the industry, TAC Systems is another and like you mentioned Wizards is an excellent product. Here's a link to Apex Detail, Brian tests most of the new products that hit the market. He'll do some destructive testing with chemicals to break the sample down.

    https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCqZ...htUBnebhY_ro_Q
    I'm waiting for the Graphene coatings to get sorted out and hit the market. You heat them up with a hair dryer to heal a scratch, very cool.
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yhPsI0U5MYM
    Robert Jackson

    1991 Voyager XT 250 HPDI

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  20. #28
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    Robert, I am about to buff the new gel on my restoration project. Ceramic coatings never crossed my mind to protect it. Don't know why I didn't think of that as I see it all the time in my car groups. Thanks!!

  21. #29
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    ive been down this exact road before, bought a boat and it was clear that someone did a poor job of clearing the deck. long story short I got the gel shine back and it has stayed for almost a decade now and counting. like you I sanded off the clear, I stopped with the paper at 1500. after 1500 I got the heaviest cut polish I could buy and worked my way up the scale with hours of polishing. the boat turned out fantastic and I regret nothing. looking at the pic posted when wet tells me there is still hope for you. get some heavy cut polish and a decent power buffer and get to work, start on a small area to get it figured out and work from there. please don't clear the boat lol

  22. #30
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    Coatings

    Quote Originally Posted by tnelsmn View Post
    Robert, I am about to buff the new gel on my restoration project. Ceramic coatings never crossed my mind to protect it. Don't know why I didn't think of that as I see it all the time in my car groups. Thanks!!
    I wished I had a Gloss Unit meter bc it's ridiculous,,,,,, Gyeon Can Coat Q2 would be a good bet, good for 6 months, cures 12 hours minimum for around 50 bucks. Plastic, chrome, leather friendly. Very cool. Good Luck on your boat.


    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iaQMpc6XIZo
    Robert Jackson

    1991 Voyager XT 250 HPDI

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