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  1. #1
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    What is best 3/8" fuel line from tank to motor?

    I have the gray stuff and it's getting soft and starting to delam. What should I replace it with? Tank is mounted under rear hatch in bass boat. Need to go from tank to motor connection. We have ethanol even in our super unleaded down here in Houston.

    It's Moeller B1-15. J1527. It's probably 6 or 7 years old.

    Also, what bulb do folks use or is there a bulb/hose kit that is worth a dang?

    thanks
    Last edited by rgsauger; 03-30-2020 at 10:23 PM.
    1990 Shadow bass boat w/ 2.4 200 Merc. Totally resto'd boat and love it!

  2. #2
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    I order all of my fuel line from Summit or Jegs. Fragola performance systems part #871008 is the ten foot length. Made in the USA (google the part #).

    Joe

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  4. #3
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    Great idea, Joe. Never even thought of using AN stuff. You think that stuff is ok for USCG rating?
    1990 Shadow bass boat w/ 2.4 200 Merc. Totally resto'd boat and love it!

  5. #4
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    Anything under closed deck must meet USCG a1 standards legally...but on my own stuff I use the gray hose from Parker it's impervious to just about anything and rated to 350 psi.

  6. #5
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    If you think of the number/model on that stuff, will you please post it?
    1990 Shadow bass boat w/ 2.4 200 Merc. Totally resto'd boat and love it!

  7. #6
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    Shields 638 is a great balance between cost and performance but can be a little stiff. Shields Silverado 4000 is almost as good, fully reinforced, more flexible and less expensive. Both are non-permiable, USCG approved and ethanol safe. I’m partial to 4000 but if you have some tight turns it’s more prone to kinking but light years better than the cheaper non-reinforced silver bulk hose. Yes, it’s silver too but it’s not the same.
    Mark

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  9. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by JPEROG View Post
    I order all of my fuel line from Summit or Jegs. Fragola performance systems part #871008 is the ten foot length. Made in the USA (google the part #).

    Joe
    I use that too but the 008 is 1/2 , 871006 is 3/8

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  11. #8
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    I use the Eaton-Aeroquip Push-Lok blue or black hose & fittings. Its not Coast Guard approved, but it works. Used it on too many I/O & O/B boats to count. Fuel feed hose in boats approved by the U.S.C.G. has to have J-1527 printed on it, the length of the hose, in a new boat build from the boat builder. After it leaves the manufacturer(boat builder), its up to you. Push-Lok hoses, of which there are a few, do not have the J-1527 printed on them. Haven't seen any yet anyways. J-1527 Alchohol Approved is what it means.
    Last edited by FUJIMO; 04-02-2020 at 06:42 PM.

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  13. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by H2OPERF View Post
    I use that too but the 008 is 1/2 , 871006 is 3/8
    That is correct, I just happened to have a couple of rolls in my office area and grabbed a package. I run the -8 fittings from the tank pickups to the slosh tanks on my stuff

    Joe

  14. #10
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    I did the stv all in #8 , 3/8 on the fishn boat.

  15. #11
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    You could buy the Coast Guard aproved hose, but if you run a system that returns fuel back into the boat, it's then "not aproved" . So why even bother ??

    -5 or 5/16 , over 150 HP and your walkin on a fence. I wouldn't even consider it ..

    The feed side to filters and pump(s) should be at least one size larger than the pressure side. I made an adapter to feed VST canisters with a -8 AN hose, core drilled the internal passageways, put an adjustable regulator, and gauge port adapter, fed it with a Carter HP pump, but the float / single needle and seat became the cork in the system. See ya ..



    Cost a little more, I think a better idea is to use a Bosch pump and surge tank that returns excess fuel out of the top and back into a filter inlet. No such thing as "picking up air" and melting it down .. unless you get greedy on the regulator screw ..







    I did this a week or so ago. Filter and pump are low .. so it should feed without a "pusher pump" . I don't like to run those pumps dry , So I put a -4 and cap on the side of the filter to "quick prime" the system with a squeeze ball. Once full, put the cap back on and it will siphon prime / pump draw from there. Having my druthers, I would have liked to had a bottom exit tank with the pump behind it … down side to that is if it developed a leak, it won't stop till the tank is dry …



    BTW .. yes I vote for Jeg's or Summit for plumbing ...

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  17. #12
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    A size bigger goin in i agree do this too but figured i would get blasted for using overkill #10, also did the uscg nono of feeding from the bottom of the tank. Nothing on this rig is stock or uscg approved anyway lol, Way i see it efi pumps are not meant to be above the tank... so if ya mount it down low and the line leaks its going to siphon into the bilge anyway, yea no anti siphon either those are just a kink in the line. As u see felt i had to use the entire roll of hose lol..Nice work as always chaz...
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails 20190924_125742.jpg   20190924_125107.jpg  
    Last edited by H2OPERF; 04-04-2020 at 08:22 AM.

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  19. #13
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    I was embarrassed to say I "only used a -8 on the feed side" …
    Does it count if I used two -8's to the filter on my boat ..
    FuelLab , Stainless hard line, Adel clamps .. I reckon ya just can't hide money ..

    Chaz = thinkin, I waste more tie-wraps than anyone I know ..

  20. #14
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    E-bay lol, actually this disease is why we dont have money... I see no reson the tanks wont stay full but Just an idea but maybe Put some low level float switches in the tanks to the o/heat horn if you get air youll have time to shut it down. I have one of these from a helicopter low fuel warning ,made to be submerbed in fuel, urs if you want to try -8 an jamb nut holds it in.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails s-l1600.jpg  

  21. #15
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    The cans are welded shut ..

    The pumps that fill the cans are bigger than the Hi-Pres pumps which make the loop and dump right back in the can. Then vent back to the filter from the very top corner. Actually the line back to the filter is on a run tee. If the filter and housing is full , fuel can go back to the tank on the side it's tied too ..
    Draining the cans was a fear I had, so I made them bigger than they needed to be , and upsized the primary pump as well as baffled the cans to keep the air bubbles out of the fuel going in. Without sending a lil diver guy in to tell me what he saw … All I could do is work with sizing and volume numbers.
    I'm a Martin Co. vendor and also build/fix things for the Jet Center @ Whitham Field.
    I never even thought to ask the guys at our Helo and private hanger's what they use in the aircraft industry for low level warnings … Duuuuuu
    I ran the 3400cc motors on that system from Jensen Causeway to the electric wires WFO with no issues on fuel delivery. Or I should say, no dancing pressure gauges ..

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