3L Swivel pin/steering arm for 2.5 style offshore bracket

[RoyE]

Thanks for the info Chaz

Did some more work on the steering arm. I cut two grooves in the ridge on the bottom of the arm, I was afraid otherwise it would be too hard to bend.


We then bent the steering arm using a press and a solid cylinder of about 6 inches in diameter placed sideways on top of the area that we wanted to bend, while supporting the sides around the bending area. We first bended it up to clear the transom brackets.


Obviously the angle isn't right, so we bent the end of the arm back, and I am happy with the result


Also mocked up the steering to make sure everything moves at it should, all is fine


The grooves were welded shut. Now just need to make it nice and pretty again


Now that I read your posts again Chaz I realize that we did not heat the steering arm when we were bending it. So one more question Chaz.. does the bending weaken the arm substantially? Does it make a difference between hot or cold?

I noticed during bending that the arm is very flexible and that you need to overbend compared to the desired position, because when pressure is release it will partly bend back.

[Chaz]

Bent it cold .. ? what do you do bench press 400 lbs ..
Hurt it .. no , pretty hard to do that. Unless you get it just way-way-way too hot.
Heating it .. makes it easier, and you can control the radius of your bend a little better by moving the heat around to different area's .
Other than that, your part looks great. You kept the integrety of the rib on the bottom and best of all it fits and has been tested with it neighboring parts.
It will prob be still in service after you and I are gone ...
Speaking of the neighbors ......

Your guy looks like he can bench press a pick-up truck .. a big azz American truck !

Look atthis guy, (good to see you have a washer on the bolt in case of a spit .. yet weak compaired to the weight lifter ..

Speaking of this engineering marvels , who's ideal was it to heat and beat some clearence into this thing ...

The two bolts under your plate .. maybe lift a little Japanese truck ..

I say red is the strongest .. either green or blue would use it's built in (how the Sweede's say it .. crumple zones ) and give it up first .. Nice piece bro .. next one should only take an hour ...



The hi-Nickel content in stainless makes it pretty tough stuff. Gives it excelent "memory" , as you noted ..
Funny stuff in that it will stand up to heat.. which travels thru it slow, but if you overheat it .. It loses it's colors and turns grey .. kind of junk at that point. And the back side of the weld looks like the moon's surface .. We call them "the black noogies" .. LOL
I usually cool a thin wall tube ( .049 ) with a sponge that sits in a plastic lid filled with water a couple times at each weld joint. It doesn't hurt the base material or the filler rod. It does tend to melt the sponge enough to tarnish the tube . Scotch brite and WD-40 .. or the first time they see 1200* It blends right in ..

[RoyE]

Thanks for the clarifications and explanations Chaz

The part about the neighbours.. you made your point