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03-29-2020, 09:56 AM #1
3L Swivel pin/steering arm for 2.5 style offshore bracket
I'm restoring an old Mercury XR2 (1987)
It has the offshore transom brackets and swivel bracket with the skinny tiller. I want to replace it with a fat tiller but have a hard time finding one. The bolts that go in the adapter plate are 1/2".
Friend of mine has a 3L tiller. I found in older threads that it can be used on my motor. Since they are both 20" I think I only have to remove the shoulder below the steering arm and modify the steering stop nub? Anything else?
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03-29-2020, 11:03 AM #2
Have you posted an ad in the classifieds here? I picked up a hi-po fat tiller a few years ago for a very reasonable price...
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03-29-2020, 11:07 AM #3
I haven't, I live in the Netherlands, and it's quite a large item, shipping will be expensive and when it arrives here I have to pay taxes over the product itself AND shipping
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04-09-2020, 01:04 PM #4
I found a nice 3L swivel pin of a 250XS with 3 ram mid. I'll share the differences I found if anyone wants to do the same later.
Obviously the shoulder on the 3L pin needs to be trimmed, it will be cut down on a big lathe
Bolt holes in the old arm were for 1/2" bolts, new arm are for M12 bolts, so these will need to be enlarged for the 1/2" bolts
The steering stop is in a different position, leading to a smaller steering angle if using the 3L pin. I'll have to check whether the angle will be sufficient.
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04-10-2020, 10:35 AM #5
Roy, yes sir .. your on the right path ...
That new 3.0L arm .. won't leave an orange stain on your driveway either …
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04-12-2020, 07:15 AM #6
Thanks Chaz. Yes, I didn't know it was a stainless one when I was on my way to pick it up, was a nice suprise when I got there
https://www.screamandfly.com/showthr...09#post2936909
In above linked post you describe to clip the steering stop nub off, but since you also say to shorten the pin I think you were talking about a 15" conversion. I've never dealt with 15", but if I remove the steering stop there is nothing else to stop it in case of steering failure, for example. How do you deal with this?
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04-12-2020, 08:34 AM #7
Yes most of them that I do are for 15" conversions.
I couple months ago, I was able to pluck a few more out of the junk yard .. err , marina .. To try and buy them new is kind of Mercrazy … $ 806.36
http://parts.promarineusa.com/produc...M50/1/1/826432
After you machine the collar down, drop it in the hole and see how tall you need the stop to be. I grind down the casting flash on the rib underneath and TIG weld (with 309) a piece of 3/8" wide stainless that fits between the collar and original stop. Then I grind the original stop to look like a little ramp to the new welded in piece. The tiller arm is stronger than a stocker. Once it's painted, you really cant tell it didn't come from the factory like that.
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RoyE thanked for this post
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04-12-2020, 08:44 AM #8
That tiller arm is hard as a rock. Drilling the upper mount holes from 12mm to 1/2" will kill a bit per hole unless you buy a cobalt or carbide bit, and even then you gotta go slow and drown it in oil as you go ..
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RoyE thanked for this post
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04-15-2020, 03:56 PM #9
Yeah the new price on the swivel pin is insane! Thanks Chaz for the info on the steering stop and the drilling of the holes.
I had a friend machine the collar
And I enlarged the holes for the 1/2" bolts using plenty of oil, the stainless is indeed hard! Broke one bit in the process.
Then I trial fitted the steering arm to the swivel bracket
I still need to adjust the steering stop, and it looks like I need to trim the swivel bracket, as it won't clear the steering arm. I guess this is because this is the older style swivel bracket, and the newer style seems more flat up top. I plan on removing the 'bulge'.
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04-16-2020, 02:36 AM #10Screaming And Flying!
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Chazzz nice work...…. Fur $ the Merc Money I would go side steer...…..
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04-16-2020, 08:02 AM #11
The tounge on the tiller arm slopes down to make up for the height of the collar. Taking a little of the hump down wont hurt the bracket. And reducing the turning radius a little won't hurt the drivers style . ( I hate to see boats pull up to the ramp with the motor tilted up @ 90* sticking straight back and laid all the way over on it's side .. poor transom )
Before you paint~n~ pretty everything up , you might want to mock up the steering cylinder. The front of the tongue might need to be rolled up a bit to make everything happy . Heat is your friend on that one.
Uncle Dave,
On side steer … I cut em off at the stop and round the front edge.
Three - four pounds means I can eat another cheeseburger and a canoli' ..
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04-21-2020, 10:57 AM #12
I had the steering stop welded closer to the pin and removed the material that would hit the swivel bracket before the steering stop. I also took a little material of the swivel bracket to make room.
Chaz I never noticed that the tounge on the tiller arm slopes down, after I read your reply I put them side to side, and saw the difference.
And that's the last I thing that needs to be fixed for the tiller arm to work. It now hits the transom brackets, you can see the marks where it hits. I will try to bend the steering arm right next to the steering stop, that way the angle of the steering bolt won't change much.
Good idea on mocking up up the steering cylinder, thanks, will do that to be sure
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04-24-2020, 07:50 AM #13
I usually go around the engine brackets with a big sander and knock all the casting flash off. Some of those jagged points are pretty sharp. I don't get into the loop area to much .. They are already scalloped out pretty deep. Just a clean-up .
I would be more concerned with how well the steering cyl travels back and forth, more than turning radius. Keeping that tiller arm bolt happy and out of bind is job #1 .
But I guess if ya get the tongue height right , turning radius will come along with it .
Find the guy at the dealership that uncrates new motors. They usually have a stack of the little plates that bolt the arm and bracket together for shipping. They are a good gauge for setting arm height.
Roy you made a nice part for your boat. Most people wouldn't believe you, if you told them the time and effort you have in that project.
It looks good, is plenty strong, won't rot .. won't even leave a orange stain in your driveway …
This one is a quick off ~ on deal to hold the motor still while traveling …
Yes Dave It's ……….. side steer ..
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04-24-2020, 09:04 AM #14The Historic Photo Master
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...I take it finding a regular old clamp tiller is hard to do these days? They were standard on all the old Merc V-6's. I don't know.
Last edited by FUJIMO; 04-24-2020 at 09:16 AM.
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04-24-2020, 02:12 PM #15
Honorable Fugimoto …
Them old ones … come apart with a Sawzall
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