User Tag List
Results 31 to 45 of 48
-
04-24-2020, 01:07 AM #315000 RPM
- Join Date
- May 2014
- Location
- WI
- Posts
- 126
- Thanks (Given)
- 15
- Thanks (Received)
- 6
- Likes (Given)
- 57
- Likes (Received)
- 60
- Mentioned
- 0 Post(s)
- Tagged
- 0 Thread(s)
Transom Knees: January 12 – January 13, 2017
The transom knees went in last, and they were built just like the stringer, transom, and crossmember (screws sandwiching a CSM layer between two ¾” marine plywood sections with CSM on both outer faces). Wet layers of CSM went between the knees and the floor, transom, and crossmember. CSM tabbing was later added as well.
This concludes the winter break 2016/17 work. It was very motivating for me to get to this point. Leading up to this point, I was pretty bummed about all the rot, and I wasn’t really sure if the fiberglass work was something I could learn to do myself. I was very lucky to have this great opportunity to make a lot of progress. This was all thanks to a great boss who enabled this by not only letting me bring my boat in, but by helping and guiding me as well. I wasn't even set up garage/shop and tool wise to complete this work.
Looking back, I likely should have used 1708 in certain areas. Obviously I can’t go back and change that now, but I could go over the top of the floor and add some tabbing to the transom & knees with 1708.
-
04-25-2020, 12:51 AM #325000 RPM
- Join Date
- May 2014
- Location
- WI
- Posts
- 126
- Thanks (Given)
- 15
- Thanks (Received)
- 6
- Likes (Given)
- 57
- Likes (Received)
- 60
- Mentioned
- 0 Post(s)
- Tagged
- 0 Thread(s)
1000 traded for 1350: March 18, 2017 – March 23, 2017
I came across a guy in MN looking to downgrade from a 1350 to something smaller, as he said it was too much for his boat. The motor was a long shaft with a jet pump, and 145 psi even across all 6. I still had my two 100hp long shaft motors, albeit both torn down to powerheads, mids, and lower units. I wasn’t actively looking for more power, but after realizing there’s little weight difference between the 100 & 135, and recalling that I overbuilt the transom, I was very tempted.
So I asked if he'd take a 100 hp powerhead + 20” mid combo in trade for his 1350 + 20” mid (I had no need/desire for a jet pump). He simply asked for a set of controls for the value difference. I figured I'd better jump on it, as there can't be too many people willing to trade a 135 for a 100. It needed wiring and fuel hoses, but as do most all unrestored inline 6’s. The high and even compression numbers were what really got my attention.
I put one of the 100’s together, and made sure it still ran. My dad and I then took a day road trip up to MN and back during my spring break to swap motors. The 1350’s will drop right onto a Super BP mid, so I was headed down the route of having a “Frankenmerc” motor comprised of a 1970 1350 powerhead, 1969 1000/1250 15” Super BP mid, and 1500XS lower unit (1976-78).
First two pics are of the 100hp & controls I traded for the 1350 (last 2 pics).
-
04-25-2020, 06:22 AM #33
Great thread. Keep the updates coming!
18 Talon/2.4 carb SOLD
26 Deck Boat/250 Merc
-
starviper10 thanked for this post
-
04-25-2020, 09:07 AM #34'78 Hydrostream Viking/'98 225 ProMax
Restoration: https://www.screamandfly.com/showthr...Viking-rebuild
Pictures: https://www.flickr.com/photos/152974...57708863869223
Videos: https://www.youtube.com/tnels
-
starviper10 thanked for this post
-
04-26-2020, 12:58 AM #355000 RPM
- Join Date
- May 2014
- Location
- WI
- Posts
- 126
- Thanks (Given)
- 15
- Thanks (Received)
- 6
- Likes (Given)
- 57
- Likes (Received)
- 60
- Mentioned
- 0 Post(s)
- Tagged
- 0 Thread(s)
Haha I wish it was done! Still a ways to go. Still need to replace deck structure, and prep it all for paint. I just went through your restoration thread for the first time, and I have to say I'm blown away. It sounds like this is your first restoration as well, kind of hard to believe with how professional your work is!
Also, thanks for the feedback on the fiberglass, I'll definitely add that tabbing. Please feel free to let me know if you see any other improvements that are needed.
-
tnelsmn thanked for this post
-
05-03-2020, 01:43 PM #365000 RPM
- Join Date
- Mar 2016
- Location
- cincinnati, ohio
- Posts
- 662
- Thanks (Given)
- 142
- Thanks (Received)
- 32
- Likes (Given)
- 278
- Likes (Received)
- 191
- Mentioned
- 1 Post(s)
- Tagged
- 0 Thread(s)
Come on, Ohio is still locked down, looking for some more progress!!!!
-
starviper10 liked this post
-
05-03-2020, 11:53 PM #375000 RPM
- Join Date
- May 2014
- Location
- WI
- Posts
- 126
- Thanks (Given)
- 15
- Thanks (Received)
- 6
- Likes (Given)
- 57
- Likes (Received)
- 60
- Mentioned
- 0 Post(s)
- Tagged
- 0 Thread(s)
MX-15 Acquisition: April 26, 2017
The next step of this project is likely rather unexpected, as it came in the form of the purchase of a second Checkmate. To most people, the purchase of a second boat, in much worse condition, likely seems completely illogical as an aid in the restoration of an existing project boat. Yet it seems perfectly justified to myself, and luckily my dad, and I would guess most of you here on this site. My mom on the other hand, wasn’t totally convinced, but I’m very thankful that she still let me park this crappy looking boat in the driveway for a couple weeks to strip it down to a bare hull.
This is the 15ft version of mine, called an MX-15. What really grabbed my attention was the 1500 short shaft on the back. The late model short mids are very hard to find. Note that this had a 5” extension on it. There’s also a louvered cowling on it, which was an option, and also stock on the Super BP’s and 1500XS. The boat was rigged with a dual opposed rack and pinion ride guide steering system. The secondary steering cable tube is hard to come across, as well as the linkage arm setup. There were also the optional checkmate trim tabs on this boat. It was really cool to see an Action Marine sticker on the motor as well. Many performance oriented Checkmates came from Action Marine.
I wasn’t actively looking for another boat, but I came across this on craigslist during my routine search for parts. Even with assuming the motor had low compression, and the hull was totally rotten, it was a good deal. I was in need of a trailer still. Although quite ugly, and a roller, this trailer looked solid and would suffice. I was also lacking the dual opposed steering linkage arm setup. I had been watching the later model short mids and louvered cowlings rise in value, so I figured I didn’t have to worry about getting my money out of it.
At this point, I was still planning on using the 1350 powerhead with the Super BP mid, but I was likely going to be tempted to borrow the louvered cowl off the 1500.
Also, just want to point out that this MX-15 hull is for sale with a trailer, without any titles or registration. Feel free to send a pm if interested. Assume new stringer, floor, transom, and paint job are required. I also have a running 1969 Merc 100hp short shaft and spare 68 100hp powerhead I could sell with it.
Last edited by starviper10; 05-04-2020 at 10:47 PM. Reason: spelling error
-
tnelsmn liked this post
-
05-04-2020, 10:49 AM #38
Thats a great buy for that inline!
'78 Hydrostream Viking/'98 225 ProMax
Restoration: https://www.screamandfly.com/showthr...Viking-rebuild
Pictures: https://www.flickr.com/photos/152974...57708863869223
Videos: https://www.youtube.com/tnels
-
starviper10 liked this post
-
05-07-2020, 12:23 AM #395000 RPM
- Join Date
- May 2014
- Location
- WI
- Posts
- 126
- Thanks (Given)
- 15
- Thanks (Received)
- 6
- Likes (Given)
- 57
- Likes (Received)
- 60
- Mentioned
- 0 Post(s)
- Tagged
- 0 Thread(s)
2017 Summer Plan + Splashwell
At this point, the structural rebuild of the hull was almost complete. There was just some tabbing to add, and the front bulkhead to build. The bottom was in pretty rough shape with lots of scratches. The deck had a lot of holes that needed to be filled, and although the dash and the deck stringers were not rotten, I wanted to replace them.
I started to think about some of the big decisions I need to make before painting it, such as the seat design & locations of the throttle, steering wheel, gauges, battery, trim pump, fuel tank, etc. I never had a small outboard powered boat like this before, or ever even driven one, so I was in new territory. I didn’t want to make any haste decisions that I might get stuck with and really regret later. I was fortunate to have a summer internship close to home, so I was home for the summer and therefore able to resume working on the boat. I decided to take the summer to get the boat running and out on the water, such that I could start playing around with locations of components, and get a feel for the boat. After spending some time driving it, I would then tear it back apart to prep for paint.
Step 1: Splashwell Repair
There were 10 holes in the splashwell that needed to be filled in, including the big cut outs for whatever genius put the transom bracket thumb screws through them. I also built the area back up where the transom cut out was. My repairs weren’t perfect, as there would definitely be some more work required before final paint, but all the holes were sealed up now.
-
tnelsmn liked this post
-
05-07-2020, 12:46 AM #405000 RPM
- Join Date
- May 2014
- Location
- WI
- Posts
- 126
- Thanks (Given)
- 15
- Thanks (Received)
- 6
- Likes (Given)
- 57
- Likes (Received)
- 60
- Mentioned
- 0 Post(s)
- Tagged
- 0 Thread(s)
Trim Tabs: June 11, 2017 – July 3, 2017
Viper1 (Sammie from Action Marine) over on the Checkmate forum gave me tremendous amounts of advice for this boat, including trim positioning. I attached a screenshot from my CAD model of the correct dimensions that utilize the strake corner as a datum.
After drilling the holes and bolting them on, I noticed that they didn’t sit flat, and had large gaps on the outer corners. There was a slight angle in the transom a couple inches above the bottom edge that was the cause. My solution for this problem was basically a fiberglass spacer/adapter that would sit flush between the trim tab and the transom, with a tapered corner. I glassed 7 CSM sheets together, then grinded it to fit as best I could. I then used some duraglass to fill in any large voids that might still be left.
-
05-13-2020, 01:13 PM #415000 RPM
- Join Date
- May 2014
- Location
- WI
- Posts
- 126
- Thanks (Given)
- 15
- Thanks (Received)
- 6
- Likes (Given)
- 57
- Likes (Received)
- 60
- Mentioned
- 0 Post(s)
- Tagged
- 0 Thread(s)
Transom Bracket: July 6, 2017 – July 15, 2017
The transom bracket was likely the component that I stressed over the most. As you can see by some of the pictures in Post #1, I have put the boat through some rough water, giving it a decent structural test. However, this is still something I worry about, and I would appreciate if anyone has any suggestions as to whether it is sufficient or needs more reinforcing.
From what I’ve gathered, these hulls don’t do well with setback. Combine this ideal 0 setback with my goal to have a period correct restoration, a simple transom bracket seemed like the way to go. The MX-15 had a simple single piece steel sheet bent to form a U shape. It dropped right on top of a block of wood sitting on top of the transom. I wanted to make something more professional looking. I drew up some designs in CAD, matching the side edge angle with the trim tab angle.
Another design decision that I would appreciate feedback on is install height, but I’ll speak to that in a later post with pics of the engine installed. For this post, I’ll just explain the construction of the bracket.
Looking back, I likely should have simply made the transom higher with transom knees extending upward through the splashwell to negate any need for a bracket. After all, the splashwell was swiss cheese anyway with all the holes and cut outs. However, at the time of the transom install I was trying to keep the boat looking original, so this is what I ended up building.
The bracket is comprised of 3 main parts, 2 plates and one welded element. The 2 plates are 7075 T651 0.25” AL that run vertically on the inside and outside of the transom. The inside plate extends as far downward as possible before bottoming out on the splashwell. Finally, a welded 6061 AL rectangular stock structure is sandwiched in between these two plates. Note that the T-handle thumb screws land roughly halfway down this structure, so they are no longer clamping on the wooden transom, which where my concern really stemmed from. However, they do land on vertical sections of rectangular AL stock.
As for bolting, there are 4 bolts that hold just the outside plate onto the transom, the top 2 of which also bolt through in the inner plate. There are 6 additional bolts just for the engine. The two engine bolts at the bottom landed at the transom crossmember height (crazy long 8” bolts). The top 4 engine bolts go through both vertical plates and the power trim brackets, 2 of which land low enough to hit the wooden transom, which made me feel a lot better.
I likely went excessively far down with the outside plate. I might trim that up some, maybe equal depth to the bottom of the trim tabs. I hate the idea of filling in holes on a new transom, but the depth of that plate bugs me.
Also, please excuse the galvanized bolts in these pics, they are what I had at the time for mocking things up.
Last edited by starviper10; 05-18-2020 at 10:51 PM.
-
05-18-2020, 11:31 PM #425000 RPM
- Join Date
- May 2014
- Location
- WI
- Posts
- 126
- Thanks (Given)
- 15
- Thanks (Received)
- 6
- Likes (Given)
- 57
- Likes (Received)
- 60
- Mentioned
- 0 Post(s)
- Tagged
- 0 Thread(s)
Engine work: June 3, 2017 – August 6, 2017
Other than dropping the powerhead onto the mid and mounting the lower unit, there wasn’t a whole lot of work required to get the engine running. The Super BP mid required shorter length powerhead and lower unit studs in areas. I was afraid of the lower crank seal going bad and letting air in, so I replaced it while I had the powerhead hanging.
I was surprised to see that the trim cylinders did not align with the mounting brackets. A quick measurement on a stock short mid reveals that the BP mid’s lower shock/trim mounts are ~1” wider than stock, likely to account for the added width of the mid section. I didn’t want to cut up perfectly good, stock trim rams, so I simply flipped the lower mounts around 180°, and later added washers to account for the difference.
-
05-22-2020, 12:48 AM #435000 RPM
- Join Date
- May 2014
- Location
- WI
- Posts
- 126
- Thanks (Given)
- 15
- Thanks (Received)
- 6
- Likes (Given)
- 57
- Likes (Received)
- 60
- Mentioned
- 0 Post(s)
- Tagged
- 0 Thread(s)
Engine mounted: July 9, 2017 – August 6, 2017
The next step was mounting the engine. Yes, I did make it such that steering cables cannot be replaced with the engine mounted. I didn’t plan for that, but with the additional height of the transom bracket, the splashwell walls were too low. I know one solution is to drill vertically downward on either side of the splashwell and use some chrome vent bezels, but I would really hate the look of that.
The transom bracket adds 3.5” to the 19” stock transom for a 22.5” grand total. Given this transom height, I believe that the prop shaft should have ended up ~1” below the pad. However, the thickness of my transom bracket caused the engine to rise another ~1/8” due to the rounded corners of the transom clamp brackets (I added a ~1/8” strip of AL to alleviate the point loading on the clamp bracket fillets). This places the prop shaft ~7/8” below the pad.
Anyone here run a similar install height on a similar hull? I have yet to have any water pressure issues, but I should note that I have only ever ran with a 1500XS lower unit. One concern I have is if I ever damage the lower unit past repair, and if I can’t find another one, as I’d have to run a stock lower unit. I’m not sure if I’d have sufficient water pressure at this height, even if I plug the upper holes.
I’ll skip forward a little timeline wise briefly to when I had the boat together and running. Performance wise, I was just around the 60 mph mark with a 28p small ear chopper at full tuck. The engine has good compression (135 psi across all 6), but the hull does have quite a lot of scratches, some fairly deep. I didn’t trim up much at all, as I was a little apprehensive without having the boat more completed. I also have 0 experience with chine walking. Unfortunately I never got a tach that worked to know what rpm I was at. Looking back that was rather foolish not to prioritize that while I had it running, as slip numbers would be very helpful.
-
05-22-2020, 07:02 AM #445000 RPM
- Join Date
- Mar 2016
- Location
- cincinnati, ohio
- Posts
- 662
- Thanks (Given)
- 142
- Thanks (Received)
- 32
- Likes (Given)
- 278
- Likes (Received)
- 191
- Mentioned
- 1 Post(s)
- Tagged
- 0 Thread(s)
Really surprised you could spin that 28 pitch, I think on my MX15 with a 135 on a homemade jack plate, I had a 22 pitch chopper that ran right at 59/60 mph.
-
starviper10 liked this post
-
05-22-2020, 09:14 AM #45Screaming And Flying!
- Join Date
- Feb 2015
- Location
- Ontario
- Posts
- 8,091
- Thanks (Given)
- 205
- Thanks (Received)
- 321
- Likes (Given)
- 1921
- Likes (Received)
- 2005
- Mentioned
- 2 Post(s)
- Tagged
- 0 Thread(s)
Great thread, super details.
Last edited by FMP; 06-03-2020 at 11:21 AM. Reason: This message will self destruct in a couple days
-
starviper10 liked this post
Similar Threads
-
1500 XS stacker
By t0mays in forum General Boating DiscussionReplies: 9Last Post: 12-09-2016, 04:52 PM -
Checkmate & 1250 Super BP on ebay
By Mark75H in forum Outboard and Racing HistoryReplies: 19Last Post: 07-24-2009, 02:32 PM -
Birthing 1250 Stacker
By kim cleckler in forum Outboard and Racing HistoryReplies: 22Last Post: 09-28-2004, 08:22 PM -
1250 BP Stacker & 1957 Switzer..eye candy
By Gary Mac Norius in forum General Boating DiscussionReplies: 4Last Post: 08-20-2002, 12:13 AM