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Thread: Sportmaster pioion sertup
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03-16-2020, 05:05 PM #1
Sportmaster pioion sertup
I just rebuilt my 300XS LH sportmaster this weekend. Had water damage so replaced all bearings, races, gears and the driveshaft. Propshaft and case were ok. When I setup the pinion I ended up with .005 in top and .020 on the bottom for shims. The reverse backlash is right at the minimum with no shims and the forward was perfect with the old shim. Does this seem normal? It had .038 on top, .021 on the bottom and no shim on reverse when I took it apart. I've done a few 2.5 gearcases but this is the first 3.0 and also the first lefty.
96 Cougar 23 MTR twin 300XS's. 100 something
98 Laveycraft Sebring 20.2 Tunnel 280 90 something SOLD
85 Baker RST 220 Laser SOLD
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03-27-2020, 06:51 PM #2
Wow no love...1 1/2 weeks 150 looks and no responses. I think it's fine because the backlash came in with the fwd and rev gears in the same place they were. Just feels a bit funny that the pinion needed so much less shim to get the correct height.
Comments...please?
96 Cougar 23 MTR twin 300XS's. 100 something
98 Laveycraft Sebring 20.2 Tunnel 280 90 something SOLD
85 Baker RST 220 Laser SOLD
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03-28-2020, 12:32 AM #3
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03-29-2020, 12:51 PM #4
Wow I must really suck at describing a question if one of the smartest guys on this site says . I was just looking for someone to say "yep have seen gears that took .005 shim" or "never seen that so you must have done something wrong". A bonus would be if they could tell me what I did wrong. I don't want to have to "Bring Out Another Thousand"...
96 Cougar 23 MTR twin 300XS's. 100 something
98 Laveycraft Sebring 20.2 Tunnel 280 90 something SOLD
85 Baker RST 220 Laser SOLD
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03-29-2020, 01:21 PM #5
Hi luv, a few things. If pinion ht is set per manual with new parts, I would expect driveshaft bearing shims to be different. Bearings, races, and driveshafts can vary.
If you forgot to remove old shims or failed to seat bearings properly can account for a difference in driveshaft bearing shims.
Hope this helps. Todd
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luv2gofast thanked for this post
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03-29-2020, 02:14 PM #6
Thanks Todd, those are good tips. New driveshaft, new gears and new bearings. I went back to the press when the shim was so small and made sure I got the bearings seated solid. I would like to remove the bearings to check all of the surfaces to make no burr but would probably destroy the bottom one. I'm using the solid 91-56048 gauge and the spring tool that pulls the driveshaft up. But there is only one .005 on top. I guess it's it's just an odd combination of parts that have all of the tolerances the same way.
96 Cougar 23 MTR twin 300XS's. 100 something
98 Laveycraft Sebring 20.2 Tunnel 280 90 something SOLD
85 Baker RST 220 Laser SOLD
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03-29-2020, 02:39 PM #7
Agree. And if you are unsure of anything, tear it apart and do it again. A $40 bearing is cheap compared to failure. Todd
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luv2gofast thanked for this post
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03-29-2020, 05:37 PM #8
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luv2gofast thanked for this post
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03-29-2020, 05:53 PM #9
Hi Capt., hope you are remaining virus free during lockdown. Perfect time for boat fixing. Not sure if you've heard but I've crossed over to the dark side and bought an i/o. I'll text you pics. Todd
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03-29-2020, 08:42 PM #10
The parts that can be measured easily , bearing race and gear . Why not grab a micrometer and do a comparison where ya can . Hf...
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luv2gofast thanked for this post
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03-29-2020, 10:06 PM #11
96 Cougar 23 MTR twin 300XS's. 100 something
98 Laveycraft Sebring 20.2 Tunnel 280 90 something SOLD
85 Baker RST 220 Laser SOLD
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03-29-2020, 10:50 PM #12A totally stunned Capt. says :
Mr. "to go fast" ,
The reason you had no response's to your liking, probably had a bit to do with the way you asked .. Meaning you spoke only of shims, nothing about having tools or a manual. If you have done 3 lower units .. if you don't have a manual, it's good reading for the bathroom .. pages you don't like , use for ... nevermind ..
I have the same spring jack for the driveshaft and the above pinion ht. checking tool. The manual says .025 +/- .001 Not a lot of wiggle room there.
I have seen the last few closer to .045 and .060 they went back together @ .025
If I put a used ring and pinion in a dana 60 or 9" Ford , I always tried to match the old pattern when setting them up they seem to run quieter that way. But these gears are so small and the end of the driveshaft is in single shear, so it's better to just follow the book.
Shims .. who cares what was in it ... Pinion ht .025" and whatever it takes to get there.
Personally I don't care for that little azz shim bendin ledge up top, but that's what sets the pinion ht. The ledge, shim, outer top race and the closure nut. The book says leave the lower race off of two bearing driveshafts until the pinion ht is set to .025"
Once that is established, the lower race and shim is installed to set bearing preload.
Put those tools away, end of pinion ht. exercise. But don't locktite the new nut and washer in yet ...
When you play "flag football" to check backlash, if you dont like the numbers, then you adjust that with the shim behind the forward race ... sukkz takin it back apart again, but at least you know that the pinion ht is already set to .025" ...
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03-30-2020, 02:08 AM #13Screaming And Flying!
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atta boy Charlie you know sometimes you can lead a man to knowledge but you cannot make him think, i gave up trying to help people on gearcase building they only seemed to receive an answer that was what they wanted to hear!!!!! i have always hated the dual drive shaft bearing set up in a 2.5 sporty take the later CLE and Torqmaster cases they used almost exact parts inside as a Sporty but neither one had a dual drive shaft bearing go figure
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03-30-2020, 03:47 AM #14
The worst part about it all is building a case from new parts. The past couple years for me it's been a total crap shoot if what comes out of the box is even worth a damn..quality control has gone some where else, a long ways away. They make the set up tools for a reason..all bearings, shafts, gears,cases new, old whatever have production tolerances..more so now than ever it seems.
Like this nice NOS OMC V8 lower drive shaft that the pinion nutthreads aren't cut all the way to the end so the nut won't start.Last edited by Capt.Insane-o; 03-30-2020 at 03:50 AM.
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Todd B. liked this post
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03-30-2020, 08:27 AM #15
My zenmaster told me, just buy the single bearing driveshaft. I said, yes, but if it came with a two bearing deal .. I'd like to put it back together that way. He said : OK then just throw the little spacer away and now you have a two bearing driveshaft ...
The mothership sells a part with an extra part installed and charges less for that part than the same part without the extra part ... I get it now ...
Capt seyz :
The worst part about it all is building a case from new parts. The past couple years for me it's been a total crap shoot if what comes out of the box is even worth a damn..quality control has gone some where else, a long ways away. They make the set up tools for a reason..all bearings, shafts, gears,cases new, old whatever have production tolerances..more so now than ever it seems.Attachment 461681
Like this nice NOS OMC V8 lower drive shaft that the pinion nutthreads aren't cut all the way to the end so the nut won't start.Yes, but have you forgotten .... they sell 4-stroke V-8's now ...
My kid became a personal trainer. He hates what I do. Dad you always put stuff together and take it apart 10 ******* times, before you put it together. Well son, if you need a breaker bar or the porta power to push it around to stick all the bolts in .. then it's obviously not ready yet ..
**** that dad, You cant make any money on the time you "have to" spent on it .. Son, I wish you told me that 45 years ago ..
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Dave Strong, JrCRXHF liked this post
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