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03-02-2020, 11:22 PM #1
Hydrostream Viking/Vking blueprinting help
I'm almost to the point where I'm ready to start adding filler to the hull for the blueprinting process on my Viking project. I plan to perfect the last 6' of the hull.
My main question is the shape of the hull at the chine where the floor sits. Should this chine be parallel with the pad surface when viewed from the rear? I had my level on the pad from left to right measuring the height difference of the chines and noticed that to outer edge of this chine is lower than the inner side near the core. I don't know if this is how it is supposed to be, or this is from the hull sitting on a bad trailer with no core or floor for a decade.
These chines are 1/16" off port to starboard. I'm planning to add a layer of CSM to build up the low side.
Kinda hard to explain, I'll get pictures up in the morning.
Thanks!
Tony.Last edited by tnelsmn; 03-02-2020 at 11:25 PM.
'78 Hydrostream Viking/'98 225 ProMax
Restoration: https://www.screamandfly.com/showthr...Viking-rebuild
Pictures: https://www.flickr.com/photos/152974...57708863869223
Videos: https://www.youtube.com/tnels
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03-03-2020, 07:11 AM #2Screaming And Flying!
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Main objective is to have same shape from side to side. I make a baseline mark from chine to chine across the transom and measure up from there on each side of the hull. Once that is checked and adjusted, measure fwd 6'-8' and using a string or long straight edge start mapping out the hull shape. All edges should be sharpened (filled) and this is especially critical on the transom trailing edge. A small amount of hook is acceptable. (1/16) But side to side is most important to help reduce the dreaded chine walk. Using glass is the best way to fill low spots, using least amount of filler possible. I have a few shots in my rebuild pics of my process of blueprinting. Maybe most important part of the whole thing. Hook on the outer "wings" is good, leave it there.
83 V-King, 96 Mariner, 200 hp ff block 2.5 w/a 28p choppa
We gotta clean this liberal mess up, VOTE TRUMP TO MAGA!
Rebuild thread:
http://www.screamandfly.com/showthre...-it&highlight=
http://www.screamandfly.com/showthre...cs.&highlight=
Videos
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03-03-2020, 10:26 AM #3
Ok, I'll get my transom patched up and flattened out before I start the blueprint work so I have a good surface to mark on. I was thinking to leave the wings alone other than trailing edge since they're out of the water at speed. I've been using CSM to fill the low spots so far. I think I have most of them ready for filler. Just a few of the larger repairs need more. I can't thank you enough for all the help with my build!
Here are a few shots of the angled chine with a square set as reference. They angle inward at 3 degrees.'78 Hydrostream Viking/'98 225 ProMax
Restoration: https://www.screamandfly.com/showthr...Viking-rebuild
Pictures: https://www.flickr.com/photos/152974...57708863869223
Videos: https://www.youtube.com/tnels
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03-04-2020, 02:28 PM #4
I recently added some of those self leveling lasers to my workflow and let me tell you speed and quality have gone UP! I use Dewalt but they all seem to do the same job. I use them as a reference instead of a target. Meaning I set the laser to broadcast 4" above my true level and measure down from the laser to the work. Extremely useful for creating perfectly true fitment on uneven builds because the laser broadcasts across the entire surface area in real time. Im sure this on a tripod would be super useful for you here. Hope this is of some help
Hydrostream dreamin
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