Seastar ram rocking

**KIRCHNER** · 02-20-2020, 08:36 PM

I thought i had air in system, but thats not the case. i watched the ram ends, the aluminum ears are rocking one end rises, the other end kicks down. that slight movement allows play and at 80, not liking it. cant understand why its acting like a torsion bar. should i tighten the tilt tube? also how tight should the pivit bolt be? looks like a nylon bushing of sort, that also rocks slightly?

**JR IN JAX** · 02-22-2020, 08:36 PM

I switched to the Seastar Tournament Pro cylinder with the keyed shaft ends that stops the twisting. Mine is rock solid now.

**flabum1017** · 02-23-2020, 11:18 AM

Loosen the knurled adjusting nut on the tilt tube and make sure the ny-lock nuts on the pin going through the tilt tube and on the cylinder rod are tight. Then tighten the knurled nut back up. Don't forget to tighten the set screw in the knurled nut when you are done.

**KIRCHNER** · 02-23-2020, 01:10 PM

The adjusting collar is on starboard side with set screw?? it seems something is wearing,from trimming up n down. ive tightened those nuts before and the movement slowly comes back. are the aluminum ears supposed to remain a fixed distance apart, matching the ram rod? when i tighten the tilt nuts if the ears move closer or wider, ram rod length is fixed , all connections need to be a 90'. i think im missing a shim somewhere??

**flabum1017** · 02-23-2020, 01:47 PM

Originally Posted by KIRCHNER

The adjusting collar is on starboard side with set screw?? it seems something is wearing,from trimming up n down. ive tightened those nuts before and the movement slowly comes back. are the aluminum ears supposed to remain a fixed distance apart, matching the ram rod? when i tighten the tilt nuts if the ears move closer or wider, ram rod length is fixed , all connections need to be a 90'. i think im missing a shim somewhere??

There should be thin plastic washers between the collar and the ear. on the other side, there should be a couple thick washers next to the ear and a stainless washer against the tilt tube

**roadkill636** · 02-23-2020, 03:42 PM

The EARS stay tight on the ROD. The EARS should tilt with the ROD. The rod and ears should be as one.

**KIRCHNER** · 02-23-2020, 07:48 PM

F i thinking correct ears are tight on the rod, but the rod will still swivel as 1 unit? not tight against engine tube? what keeps the ears from squeezeing against engine tube, stopping the swivel motion? brain storm the rod has a flange so ears can only move in so far and i take up slack with spacers? yes? if so i have too many spacers the more it tighten, the more they wear... does that make sense? that has to be why im getting the play every 5-6 run hours of run time.

**flabum1017** · 02-23-2020, 07:55 PM

Originally Posted by KIRCHNER

F i thinking correct ears are tight on the rod, but the rod will still swivel as 1 unit? not tight against engine tube? what keeps the ears from squeezeing against engine tube, stopping the swivel motion? brain storm the rod has a flange so ears can only move in so far and i take up slack with spacers? yes? if so i have too many spacers the more it tighten, the more they wear... does that make sense?

The knurled adjusting nut takes up the slack...it does not need to be super tight, just tight enough to stop the slop. The rod that goes through the tilt tub should pivot inside the tilt tube. If it is seized in the tilt tube, the ears will become loose from the nut backing off every time you trim or tilt the motor. Grease is the key to keep everything working the way it should.

**flabum1017** · 02-23-2020, 07:57 PM

to answer your previous question, with the knurled nut screwd all the way onto the tilt tube, you should be able to tighten all the rod nuts at the ears and still have play in the steering, then take up the play by adjusting the knurled nut out.

**KIRCHNER** · 02-24-2020, 09:54 AM

ive got it now, going today and see whats up. thanks i understand now what to do..

**LakeFever** · 02-25-2020, 04:02 PM

Originally Posted by JR IN JAX

I switched to the Seastar Tournament Pro cylinder with the keyed shaft ends that stops the twisting. Mine is rock solid now.

I use the SeaStar pro which is also keyed, rock solid

**KIRCHNER** · 02-28-2020, 05:29 PM

Well i worked all morning and acomplished nothing. the rocking is the bushing tiller bolt. is must have a shoulder, i backed off lock not bottom side, but bolt is tight, ican see a gap if i pull on the cav plate back and forth. looks like some material is being squeezed out of joint? is that coupling a seastar part? cant really see it. pan is right on top. im ready to trash the whole POS! Cant get my fingers in there, an openend barely 9/16. What should i do? real bummer.

**JR IN JAX** · 02-29-2020, 02:23 PM

I agree that the specialty tiller bolt is almost impossible to get to. The large bushing/bearing/washer comes with the new keyed end tournament cylinder, along with a new traceable hardware tiller bolt. I got a real-deal on my new cylinder from a San Diego Go2marine.

**KIRCHNER** · 03-01-2020, 11:22 AM

i wassearching seastar parts, and unbelievably i found a company 5 min away, in an industrial park, that rebuilds, reconds all power tilts, trims, pistons everything seastar. 5star marine. ill see whats up with that bushing from them. heck, ill tow it over there, maybe find a final fix. there in port richey, fl. when i told tech boat runs about 80 he said buy a complete new system. i need a # ha5820 tiller bushing kit.????