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  1. #1
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    Are Polished Reed Stops a good or bad thing ???????

    So we sort of covered the exhaust side of the Johnson V4 140 build in a previous post, what about the intake side of things in particular the reed stops.

    Is it better to have a polished mirror like surface on the reed stops to help the fuel flow better and faster through to the crankcase
    OR
    Is it better to have a smooth but not polished surface so the gas does not cling to the stops ?????Click image for larger version. 

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    On a side note why does the 140 have shims under the outer set of stops ????
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails 3.jpg  
    Last edited by spybot; 02-20-2020 at 05:24 AM.

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  2. #2
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    I would think that a polished reed stop could cause the reeds to stick a little to the stop.

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  4. #3
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    I,ve never heard of a polished reed stop. A polished reed block may have an advantage, if you want to turn over 7,000 rpm. The only reason the spacer is there, is so longer reed valve screws. can be used & do not protrude into intake flow. But yet are long enough, so if they come out. they will not be able to fall into motor. Because they will back out only far enough, to be captured in intake or front half of block. Chris Carson reed stuffers, would work good in your motor. Another thing to help intake side is. Before assembly bolt intake & gaskets to front half. Check for any factory ridges that may be interrupting flow. Carefully grind them down with dremel. Go to boyesen reeds & remove reed stops.
    Last edited by billybob; 02-20-2020 at 11:14 AM.

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  6. #4
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    Polished will cause fuel to stick. Polish exhaust, rough finish on intake.

    Dave
    1980 Cougar 19 tunnel,90 2.4L Bridgeport EFI in middle of restoration.
    1988 BAJA Sunsport 186, 96 225 Pro Max
    79 12' Auminum, 95 Merc 9.9
    RIP Stu
    "So many idiots, so few bullets"

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  8. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by billybob View Post
    Chris Carson reed stuffers, would work good in your motor.
    Unfortunately Chris doesn't do stuffers for OMC yet. I have the factory stuffers but was wondering about the holes/spaces in them.
    Would it be better if the voids were filled with epoxy of some kind ???

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    Quote Originally Posted by Dave Strong View Post
    Polished will cause fuel to stick. Polish exhaust, rough finish on intake.

    Dave
    I will look into polishing the exhaust, it seems the logical thing to do. The flow path is a bit rough round the edges (so to speak) and could do with a little fetling to get it spot on.

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  10. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by spybot View Post
    I will look into polishing the exhaust, it seems the logical thing to do. The flow path is a bit rough round the edges (so to speak) and could do with a little fetling to get it spot on.
    Doubt you would see much gain with polishing, a ton of work for minimal gain. As was said get rid of ugly casting bumps and be done.

    Dave
    1980 Cougar 19 tunnel,90 2.4L Bridgeport EFI in middle of restoration.
    1988 BAJA Sunsport 186, 96 225 Pro Max
    79 12' Auminum, 95 Merc 9.9
    RIP Stu
    "So many idiots, so few bullets"

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  12. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by spybot View Post
    Unfortunately Chris doesn't do stuffers for OMC yet. I have the factory stuffers but was wondering about the holes/spaces in them.
    Would it be better if the voids were filled with epoxy of some kind ???

    I bought a pair for my 1990 140 rude from him last year. Might want to check back with him.

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  14. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by spybot View Post
    Unfortunately Chris doesn't do stuffers for OMC yet. I have the factory stuffers but was wondering about the holes/spaces in them.
    Would it be better if the voids were filled with epoxy of some kind ???
    Ya hes got em now

  15. #10
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    Ifin it were me ...
    I'd cut them off at the red line, round the corners off, throw them in the tumbler or bead blast em .. just something to knock down any bur's at the edges (it is a stanping)
    and put them back together with new Carson reeds.
    The flat will hold the reed in place, the radius will soften the hinge point, after that it's up to the reed to open as far as it wants to ..


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  17. #11
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    Cut like chaz says or find some like this https://www.ebay.com/itm/Johnson-leaf-plate-assembly-50-150-HP-1972-1983-4-available/181757795307?hash=item2a519bdbeb:g:sd0AAOSwpdpVZUUV . trash the ones with the bumper on the end.

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  19. #12
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    https://www.ebay.com/itm/Johnson-lea...0AAOSwpdpVZUUV

    Re-posting above message to include link.

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  21. #13
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    OK so will look into cutting these ones i have.
    So should it be straight across with a corner radius ??
    I struggle to get parts like those listed above over here in Scotland.
    Anything i buy from the US has an import tax around 13% then 20% added to the full value so the $80 Reed cadges would cost around £110 gbp plus the shipping so around £140 just to have them here.
    I will try and cut these ones and take it from there, any other things i should look in to doing on the cadges petals ???

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  22. #14
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    Lap the reed cages to make sure they are perfectly flat.

    Dave
    1980 Cougar 19 tunnel,90 2.4L Bridgeport EFI in middle of restoration.
    1988 BAJA Sunsport 186, 96 225 Pro Max
    79 12' Auminum, 95 Merc 9.9
    RIP Stu
    "So many idiots, so few bullets"

  23. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dave Strong View Post
    Lap the reed cages to make sure they are perfectly flat.

    Dave
    Done that Dave

    Lapped on a 400 grit wet and dry they are ready for the reeds going on to.

    I love my Bikini

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