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Thread: Eddie Mac

  1. #31
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    Quote Originally Posted by CI STV View Post
    Thanks. I’ve just sent him an email, coincidentally. He doesn’t have that model up on his website as yet. Thank god for people like him though, without which, the two-stroke outboard drag racing scene might have died already.
    Jack is single handily keeping the sport alive, for sure. He probably doesn’t have any pics up on the website because he’s too busy out in the shop, and the Qs1 is really new. If he doesn’t get back with you in a couple days, and you’re serious, PM me and I’ll give you his cell.


    '95 STV "The Blue Goose"


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  3. #32
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    Click image for larger version. 

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    I CAN ALWAYS MAKE ANOTHER DOLLAR, BUT I CANNOT MAKE ANOTHER DAY

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  5. #33
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    Quote Originally Posted by CI STV View Post
    I’ve looked at the videos posted several times now, trying to see when it planed, and still no dice.
    The "stick-mid" was Monty's idea. He said to me one day, I want you to do a mid for an outboard ... like you build your cars And the *&*^*(()()$&( &*%$%#&78 thing better be light ...




    OK boss ...

    First one was for the "twisted" boat that Rick George wanted to set the outboard speed record with. All the ones after that were for drag boats.
    I've downloaded and watched race footage on my big screen TV. It has a frame advance deal that can go one at a time.
    If you think about it, when you give just about any boat the gas, it squats.
    The worst place to hang weight is in the back .. let alone outside of the back. So every pound is critical. If you can get rid of almost 100 pounds from the "bad spot" I can't help but think that it's gotta shorten the transition time from churdelin along at 7MPH to being on top and going ...

    As far as the new boat's bottom .. Ya gotta ask Jack about that .. or send Instigator over with a square and tape measure ...

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  7. #34
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    Here is what the bottom looks like.

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  8. #35
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    Quote Originally Posted by Chaz View Post
    The "stick-mid" was Monty's idea. He said to me one day, I want you to do a mid for an outboard ... like you build your cars And the *&*^*(()()$&( &*%$%#&78 thing better be light ...




    OK boss ...

    First one was for the "twisted" boat that Rick George wanted to set the outboard speed record with. All the ones after that were for drag boats.
    I've downloaded and watched race footage on my big screen TV. It has a frame advance deal that can go one at a time.
    If you think about it, when you give just about any boat the gas, it squats.
    The worst place to hang weight is in the back .. let alone outside of the back. So every pound is critical. If you can get rid of almost 100 pounds from the "bad spot" I can't help but think that it's gotta shorten the transition time from churdelin along at 7MPH to being on top and going ...

    As far as the new boat's bottom .. Ya gotta ask Jack about that .. or send Instigator over with a square and tape measure ...
    That sounds just like the mad scientist Gordon that I know. I haven’t seen or spoken to him in years, but he’s one of the best, imho. He’s another guy who’s keeping two stroke drag racing alive (along with a few other crazy souls on here, present company included
    Monty built a badass 3.0 Johnson for me back in the mid 90s that I turned 8600+ RPM on nitrous too many times to count. I first had it on the back of an Action 18’, but it couldn’t handle the power, so I bought Gordon’s yellow and lime green checkered over purple mirage RR. I cut the midsection down to 16” and used a Merc F1 ram for trim. That boat was an animal on the spray, but I couldn’t get it to stop bogging out of the hole coming on to plane. The only guy I couldn’t beat with that setup was a friend of mine who bought Larry Smith’s APBA hall of famer Triad. I sold the OMC motor to guy down here with an Allison bass boat and he beat the hell out of it and last I heard it was still running. I then bought a Merc 260 and then a stock drag from Diamond and ran that until I got distracted with other projects and sold it. That’s still running to this day too. My current project is Gordon’s former blue and yellow STV, which I have just got a nice modded Drag powerhead back from Diamond to put on it. So, yeah, maybe he might not even speak to me again, since I’ve gone over to the dark motor side, but he’s still a good guy and a hell of a drag outboard builder/racer in my books, and I’m still running his ****, lol.

  9. #36
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    Quote Originally Posted by mach351 View Post
    Jack is single handily keeping the sport alive, for sure. He probably doesn’t have any pics up on the website because he’s too busy out in the shop, and the Qs1 is really new. If he doesn’t get back with you in a couple days, and you’re serious, PM me and I’ll give you his cell.
    Thanks man. Jack emailed me back right away the other day, and wanted to call me then to talk about the QS-1 hull, but I’m currently traveling in Europe, so I told him I would ring him back when I get back, which I will. I’ve always heard good things about him. I’m seriously interested.
    I may start a thread on here and ask everyone which hull they think would be quicker in an 800 ft drag race: a lightweight STV Mod or one of these QS-1 hulls, but I suspect I know the answer to that poll already!

  10. #37
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    That Red QS1 is beautiful. Boat looks like it hooks up right now and leaves flat. 110MPH in 800 ft is bad ass.

    The picture of the string steering setup on the blue boat is a piece of art. Is that on the back of Mach351's Blue STV?

    The Green QS! looks like it could take you up to visit the Space X Star mans sports car, then turn around with a perfect re-entry to Lake Butler. Epic.

    I had a tiller bolt back out of a 1 piece exhaust adaptor on a 15" 260 N2O motor on a Ally SS 2000 at speed once. Resulting in highly spirited driving. That was enough for me.
    Last edited by scott reierson; 02-18-2020 at 02:15 PM.

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  12. #38
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    That steering isn’t my gear (I wish it was though!)


    '95 STV "The Blue Goose"


  13. #39
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    Beautiful rig Eddie
    Rob Lankford

    1988 20' Action Marine 2.4 200

    Previous owned boats worth mentioning

    1976 17' Action Marine 2.4 200
    1984 20' Action Marine 2.5 200
    1983 17' Hydrostream V-King 2.4 Bridgeport
    2003 LPB STV RR COPY 2.5 280 /300 Drag
    2005 LPB STV RR COPY 2.5 280
    2005 Baja 23 Outlaw 6.2 Mercruiser
    2006 FTP Quarter Shot T3 Race 2.5 200 CARB/2.5 225 PROMAX
    2009 FTP Quarter Shot T3 Race 2.5 280




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  15. #40
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kevin_From_NJ View Post
    Here is what the bottom looks like.
    Excuse me sir ... does that come in a different color .. ???
    I'm getting older, and don't see that well anymore ...


    Blue steering gear .. H20 Dave's STV ...

    Sumptin bout it scream's .. I'm not just an A&P mechanic ...

    I build and fly helicopters too ....


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  17. #41
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    Quote Originally Posted by Chaz View Post
    Excuse me sir ... does that come in a different color .. ???
    I'm getting older, and don't see that well anymore ...


    Blue steering gear .. H20 Dave's STV ...

    Sumptin bout it scream's .. I'm not just an A&P mechanic ...

    I build and fly helicopters too ....

    That is an awesome piece of engineering. Some beautiful machine and finish work on that rig.

  18. #42
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    I love the simplicity of the GeigerTec pulley setup though. I may have accidentally taken that spy shot of a certain beautiful S&F featured STV at Diamond one day, when Marty wasn’t looking...

  19. #43
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    NAS grip to length bolts .. Hi-misalignment washers ..


  20. #44
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    Chaz I have built several steering bars over time and always strove to make the pivot points (where the pulley attaches to the end of the bar) align with the swivel pin. In other words, a line from pivot point to pivot point would intersect the swivel. This looks to be forward of the swivel. How does the cable tension remain constant? Am I missing something?
    18 Talon/2.4 carb SOLD
    26 Deck Boat/250 Merc

  21. #45
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    Quote Originally Posted by 99fxst99 View Post
    Chaz I have built several steering bars over time and always strove to make the pivot points (where the pulley attaches to the end of the bar) align with the swivel pin. In other words, a line from pivot point to pivot point would intersect the swivel. This looks to be forward of the swivel. How does the cable tension remain constant? Am I missing something?
    That’s how I’ve always understood it works too. I think it’s just the angle I took the picture at. Pretty sure that Diamond marine and the owner wouldn’t make a mistake like that. The workmanship on everything in this boat was some of the best I’ve ever seen.
    And as far as I know, both the steering wings and the swivel bracket assembly were both made by Geiger Tec, so I’m sure they were designed to work together.
    Here’s a zoomed out picture at a slightly better angle:
    Click image for larger version. 

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    Last edited by CI STV; 02-19-2020 at 01:23 PM.

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