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  1. #1
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    Anyone Buy A Wood Burning Fireplace Lately? Need Help!

    Hey guys, I'm sure someone here knows a lot more about this than I do. I'm looking to put a zero clearance wood burning fireplace in my house, but can't find what I'm looking for in my price range. I just want a basic open to the air wood fireplace, and don't want to spend a ton. Maybe thats the problem, but I cant find ANYTHING under $3500 Canadian, never-mind something I would want to buy.

    Lots of stuff has these big glass doors that to me look more like a wood stove than a fireplace. They all advertise high heat efficiency etc. I don't need any of that, I want an old-school burn the house down when sparks fly out type. My insurance requires it to be CSA, WH, ULC, or OTL approved.

    Thanks in advance for the help guys!

    P.S. Used is good too, if your intending to rip one of these out of your house, let me know. As long as its approved I would consider it a great option!

    Blake


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  2. #2
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    The woodburning fireplace with inserts are very expensive here but very efficient and worth every penny I have a old fashioned fireplace and I can tell you it burns 3 times the amount of wood and only heats part of the room the fireplace inserts with blowers will heat your entire room I also have a woodburning furnace that is connected to my duct Works to heat the entire house for supplemental use
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails 20181110_221218.jpg  

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  4. #3
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    I have a Hearthstone wood burning unit at the lake and its great. It has a soapstone model that retains heat without being crazy hot to the touch. I highly recommend them-it will heat our whole condo at LOTO (not the cold that you are dealing with) but I can't keep a bunch of wood on hand so I needed to maximize efficiency.

    Joe

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  6. #4
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    Thanks for the replies Micheal and Joe. Ill definitely check out the Hearthstone units, I had not heard of those. Ill have to check our heating bill again and see. I don't think this is something I could ever make pay for itself in savings, but maybe it's possible. We heat with natural gas and it is very cheap up here. I think that's the main reason I'm having a hard time even finding them up here, the natural gas units are a dime a dozen, but there's nothing quite like a real wood fire in January.


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  7. #5
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    Get a Pacific Energy insert. You want crackle and smells leave the door open. If you're trying to heat with it it'll do more than enough without bringing two to three times wood in depending on how good your fireplace is. Some of the double wall steel with cold to warm air convection vents are very good but still use much more wood and need to be custom built in a rough in fireplace. If you have a regular open fireplace an insert air tight is the best.

    If you're good you could weld up a double wall to your specs and ad that ducts.
    Last edited by FMP; 01-13-2020 at 06:37 PM.

  8. #6
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    Had a house on lake Ontario all electric two story, I tried different things, Finally installed a boilerplate air tite unit in front of the fireplace, could not believe how little wood I used a must, if you really want heat.
    We have invented the world; WE see

  9. #7
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    Electric baseboard heaters, the most efficient way to heat, just need a wicked stream of electrons to keep the meter spinning.

  10. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by FMP View Post
    Electric baseboard heaters, the most efficient way to heat, just need a wicked stream of electrons to keep the meter spinning.
    I would think a nat gas central air unit would be the most efficient way to heat a home.
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  12. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by CDave View Post
    I would think a nat gas central air unit would be the most efficient way to heat a home.
    With electric baseboards 100% of the consumed energy is turned to heat in the space it’s called for....its kinda hard to beat that in terms of efficiency. Cost of electricity.......that’s a different story.
    As far as finding a zero clearance, open fireplace (ie, not an airtight unit).....good luck. I don’t think there is such a thing. Just about every zero clearance unit I’ve ever seen has been EPA approved and as such they tend to be high efficiency, which an open FP is not.
    As mentioned above......Pacific Energy make an excellent product. I’ve had & installed several for customers. No complaints.
    I heat my house almost exclusively with wood. The only complaint is the dust in the winter months but if you’re careful it’s not to bad.

  13. #10
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    Just like this forum for outboard boats here is a place this is all about wood burning from boilers to pellet stoves.

    https://www.hearth.com/talk/forums/t...-fireplaces.6/
    http://i35.tinypic.com/epn6ma.jpg

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  15. #11
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    Better plan with Jr's post - read up but I agree , as much as you enjoy the open burn - a n air tight with the opportunity to open up and free burn is a great opportunity . You do need to heat the area reasonably well . Win win . I use a pellet stove from Harman and it' not cheap to run either but it can be throttled back to a minamum and enjoyed to pay for itself . If you have gas - it' cheap and insurance is also on board and the wife just flips a switch . When power is out still works . The wood is free I get it and easilly attained but chimney is not cheap and wood burned must be dry ,stacked, ashes and soot are constant and can be the cause of allot of fires - residential . I always found gas is the way to go - due to the eficiency . As much as i love a wood burning fire - cutting , stacking , drying - then when you bring the wood in , every bug wakes up from its slumber and then the ashes and soot . Dont mean to upset the cart but gas is inexpensive and great ambiance . Have your fires open pit outside and get that neandrothol thing out of the way . I found the inserts for wood pricey and then the class A chimney the same . Get a gas and B vent it right out the wall - simple effcient and insurance likes you . Just trying to give you options .

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  17. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by JrCRXHF View Post
    Just like this forum for outboard boats here is a place this is all about wood burning from boilers to pellet stoves.

    https://www.hearth.com/talk/forums/t...-fireplaces.6/
    I bet they talk about boats

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  19. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tomanytoys View Post
    With electric baseboards 100% of the consumed energy is turned to heat in the space it’s called for....its kinda hard to beat that in terms of efficiency. Cost of electricity.......that’s a different story.
    As far as finding a zero clearance, open fireplace (ie, not an airtight unit).....good luck. I don’t think there is such a thing. Just about every zero clearance unit I’ve ever seen has been EPA approved and as such they tend to be high efficiency, which an open FP is not.
    As mentioned above......Pacific Energy make an excellent product. I’ve had & installed several for customers. No complaints.
    I heat my house almost exclusively with wood. The only complaint is the dust in the winter months but if you’re careful it’s not to bad.
    I am definitely going to look into the Pacific Energy units, I have a few emails I am waiting on to find out some more info and pricing.

    I think for me it comes down to how badly I want this. (and if I can convince the wife we NEED this) It's always something I have wanted, I love fire. I checked last night and our gas bills average ~$55 / month (~$42USD). It's tough to tell exactly what they are because of their crazy averaging and estimating system. This includes my central heat, heating my hot water, clothes dryer, and BBQ. It just doesn't seem like there's a ton of room for actual money saving, I don't think the unit will ever pay for itself.


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  20. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by kellytheaker View Post
    Better plan with Jr's post - read up but I agree , as much as you enjoy the open burn - a n air tight with the opportunity to open up and free burn is a great opportunity . You do need to heat the area reasonably well . Win win . I use a pellet stove from Harman and it' not cheap to run either but it can be throttled back to a minamum and enjoyed to pay for itself . If you have gas - it' cheap and insurance is also on board and the wife just flips a switch . When power is out still works . The wood is free I get it and easilly attained but chimney is not cheap and wood burned must be dry ,stacked, ashes and soot are constant and can be the cause of allot of fires - residential . I always found gas is the way to go - due to the eficiency . As much as i love a wood burning fire - cutting , stacking , drying - then when you bring the wood in , every bug wakes up from its slumber and then the ashes and soot . Dont mean to upset the cart but gas is inexpensive and great ambiance . Have your fires open pit outside and get that neandrothol thing out of the way . I found the inserts for wood pricey and then the class A chimney the same . Get a gas and B vent it right out the wall - simple effcient and insurance likes you . Just trying to give you options .
    I think it might come down to this, I really didn't want to go with a gas unit, but they are much cheaper and cheaper to install as well. My whole house is already on gas, so what's 1 more appliance. I do agree with the mess though, that is one of the biggest drawbacks. Maybe you're right, save the fire burning for outside. I just find we don't do it that often and it's impossible to do on the days when you really want it (-40°). We do already have a lot of fire going on, fire pit outside, gas fire table on the deck, small electric fireplace upstairs, stick burner smoker, gas grill. Now that I read all that maybe I'm a pyromaniac.

    Also thanks JR, I will check out those forums, I'm sure there's some great info on there.


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  21. #15
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    You need to record your meter consumption, cubic meters or cubic feet depending on how old the meter is. Averaging is drag come summer when you're still paying for winter. Plus they can increase the rate when you're hardly using any and apply it to the back consumption.
    Depending on insert opening you can get some very robust BTU numbers from the Pacific Energy units, they burn very clean. If it's in the basement or lowest level it'll heat right to the attic insulation if you have enough open area for the heat to rise. Can always set your furnace fan to cycle so often to move the air around and the whole place is near even if you're properly insulated, upstairs exterior walls, windows, attic etc. Keeps the kids busy keeping the wood split and stacked dry and brought inside every couple days. Clear see through window in the door, watch the flames rotate and tumble, washing the window without a hint of smoke or smell. Many units also have a fan or two to add to heating, variable speed, thermo controlled for low load efficiency or just off. I can load it full ,set it low and it'll go through the the night until morning with good hard wood but even spit spruce does fine, then stack a fee more pieces in for the morning. If you use it continuously it gets into a routine. Once lit you only need to shovel the hot ash out every 1-2 weeks to keep it good. Never empty it clean and always do it with hot coals still in it for fast restart. Metal bucket , ashes to a spot out back in the snow or wet it down etc.

    Also Napoleon
    Last edited by FMP; 01-14-2020 at 12:31 PM.

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