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  1. #16
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    I would rather practice on the junk before I do anything special to a nice unit. Most empty cases I see do not have any gears or bearings in them (of course) and I am not in the business of shimming... Gonna try to work with what I have so far, maybe I'll learn to shim later...

    I will take everyone's thoughts into consideration, glad I didn't cut the skeg yet


  2. #17
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    Down on the bottom of the skag welding should not be an issue. Make sure that you clean it up real good to eliminate any stress risers.

  3. #18
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    My dad hit a log or something and tore the whole skeg as well as part of the barrel off of his lower...there was a 2" wide gash at the bottom through which you could see the carrier. Local prop shop welded it up, remachined it, re-tapped it for the gland nut and welded on a new chunk of skeg and put it all back together and he's been running it (not surfacing) for about 20 years now...no issues.

    I'm not good enough at welding aluminum to trust myself with a lower unit...but I have seen plenty of welders who are. Use your judgement with the equipment and skills at your disposal.

  4. #19
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    What would be the shortest length of the skeg you could use safely on a 18ft Hydrostream? -Measuring a straight line from the underside of the rear part of the bullet to the bottom tip of the rear part of the skeg

    I think an untouched skeg will be about 6-5/8" on a regular/fishing lower unit
    I have one that is 5-7/8", wondering if the 5-7/8" length is ok....


  5. #20
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  6. #21
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    Yes saw that one last week, looks like a preload case, would prefer ratcheting because all the parts have have are for the ratcheting cases


  7. #22
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    gotcha!

  8. #23
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    Spring loaded pin on top of driveshaft = preload case. Stick with ratcheting for sure!
    AIRWALK
    gettin' old ain't for sissies

  9. #24
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    So a preload unit wont ratchet the opposite way while in gear?

    Is a ratching case one you can spin backwards while n gear and hear the clicking ratching sound?

  10. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by Whaaaaat View Post
    My apologies to the OP for mentioning welding, and skeg in the same sentence on this site.
    That said. The case is repairable. However it should have paint removed where the case meets the skeg and inspected for cracks. Don't use a wire wheel as steel fragments could imbed in the aluminum causing cracks later.

    Here's a picture of a lower that's too far goneAttachment 456316
    You could mention, skeg ( or skag pendin on where ya growed~up ) and welding in the same sentence . If … you say , change of direction , corrugation , 110% penetration , preheat, argon bath, post heat .. then at least a few will understand ..

    Lets see .. build up a couple coral rock sanded corners … Or …

    Knock 20% of the depth off .. then run it on top …

    I can't make up my mind …





    When I wuz a kid .. I wuz told , all ya be is just a little bit smarter than what your workin with .. truer words were never spoken ..



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  12. #26
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    So how hard and how high would you run that lower, Chaz? Honestly...
    1990 Shadow bass boat w/ 2.4 200 Merc. Totally resto'd boat and love it!

  13. #27
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    RG,
    I'd be skeerddd to death ...

    Let me ask you … which of these is the strongest, which is the weakest .. ???



    How many tons of products get thrown around in this stuff every day .. ???


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  15. #28
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    Oh no... Chaz is going to start making those cardboard skegs again....


    www.InjectorService.com
    Call/Text - 204-326-0390



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  17. #29
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    Double post pls delete
    Last edited by LakeFever; 05-01-2020 at 12:29 PM.
    Hydrostream dreamin

  18. #30
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    I wouldnt cut the whole thing off if its sound above the crack, leave it be. Fab up your own torque tab out of aluminum and section it into the lower unit where its cracked. Dress the cracked off part of the lower and weld the torque tab shaped to match the height of the stock lower, with the torque tab out back angled slightly. I cant see this not being as strong or stronger than stock if prepped and welded properly. Clean clean clean is key. Acetone and stainless steel wire brushes only for welding prep. If this works out well? Then cone it, not before LOL so your only out time and no $ just to be safe. While your at it might was well fab up a cavitation plate deal. I like the look of this one, no idea how well it works but it looks great

    http://hydrostream.org/ArticleArchiv...ationPlate.htm


    Heres a pic of the torque tab I would make

    Attachment 464564
    Hydrostream dreamin

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