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  1. #31
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    I almost went with a bravo you would have multiple gear ratio options along with the huge skeg size and several housing lengths, the water pump would be a bit of work but not too bad. Sure would be bullet proof with the strait gears though. Thinking a mod vp without Neutral or Reverse would be no fun at the dock so it didn't happen..

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  3. #32
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    Kevin, would love pictures of the m2 once complete, and curious how they will live surfaced.

  4. #33
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    locked and paddling......the boat not the prop........Mc1... clubfoot..x115....#2....#4.... # 8......Just add power......

  5. #34
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    Quote Originally Posted by oldschoolltv View Post
    Kevin, would love pictures of the m2 once complete, and curious how they will live surfaced.
    I ran one for over a year on my t1 (8yrs ago) my only issue was 6250 limiter and 1.85 gear. They solved a few of the usual omc lower problems one being carrier cannot spin another is they have a nice sized skeg. Since you can re route the water there’s no expensive nosecone to add or stupid epoxy filler to fall off.
    Quartershot T-3R 15" 3.5L E-Tec 1.62 Sportmaster


  6. #35
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    Quote Originally Posted by oldschoolltv View Post
    Kevin, would love pictures of the m2 once complete, and curious how they will live surfaced.
    I ran one for over a year on my t1 (8yrs ago) my only issue was 6250 limiter and 1.85 gear. They solved a few of the usual omc lower problems one being carrier cannot spin another is they have a nice sized skeg. Since you can re route the water there’s no expensive nosecone to add or stupid epoxy filler to fall off.
    Quartershot T-3R 15" 3.5L E-Tec 1.62 Sportmaster


  7. #36
    Join Date
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    Got your PM about Sportys/CLE's on your boat and thought I would answer here for those following w/similar style (heavy vee's) rigs.

    In my experience, they wont work. You need to carry the bow and Sporty/CLE's add too much planning surface to the bottom of the case.
    Which means, it lifts the transom and drops the bow.[
    Opposite of what you want.

    I did tons of testing on my first twin O/B 24' Sonic, including nose cones as it was doing the magic 80 mph (per the experts) that you need them.
    W/O them, it flew the bow perfect w/zero trim. The perfect scenario.
    W/Bobs cones installed, I lost 3 mph and it took full/max up trim to get that.
    Knocked the cones off it returned to where it was.

    On surfacing the cases on your boat, due to the weight, Im not sure youll get there.
    I also tested set back and engine height on that boat.

    Had a 20" bracket and added 6" mechanical plates and gained ZERO.
    We tested height, back to back, same lake, same time.
    We started where the boat was running 80 then raised the motors in 1/2" increments. (remember the experts)
    First 1/2" did nothing, 2nd 1/2" raised RPM but not speed (meaning the 26" Choppers were starting to slip), 3rd 1/2" (now up 1 1/2") added more R's and now lost speed.
    I sold the plates (one use) and dropped the motors back where they were.

    So again, my unprofessional opinion, youll hate em.

    Something else to consider in that swap is that you lose the OMC shift interrupter when going to the Merc style shifting mechanism.
    If you kill the motor to shift, who cares. I like shifting mine running. Because I can.
    On one of my conversions I mounted an old OMC kicker push button kill switch to the shift lever so I could hit it while shifting.
    It killed one bank of cylinders same as the factory set up did.

    On the other I used the mechanism off a Merc I/O and mounted it in the boat. Similar to the OMC it sensed load on the mechanism while shifting and dropped cylinders.
    It was a PIA and I never got it to work repeatedly.

    Hope that helps Michael.


    QUOTE=mrichartz;3183297]Actually depends on what your doing read baja200merk post they use the 1.62 gearing and will be much faster..

    But I
    Should have worded title different but..
    Looking into what will hold up to being surfaced
    Best, is actually what I want.. it may just be what I've got is what I've got...mine are pinned and change the fluid often.
    I had one go on me from surfacing it, but might just be it and to bad..
    And might just be cheaper to buy/rebuild a lower if it goes again
    I can't use that kind of gearing because of my motors.. compression , porting and weight.. need the 1.87


    Michael[/QUOTE]
    I'd rather be competitive w/junk I built in my garage than win w/stuff I bought.


    I refuse to allow common sense to interfere w/my boat buying decisions.


    Checkmate 16' 140 Johnson
    Hydrostream 17' Vector FrankenRude I
    Laser 480 (?) 21' w/GT 200
    Glastron Carlson Conquest w/XP 2.6
    Glastron Carlson CVX 20 w/XP 2.6
    24' Sonic w/twin 250 Johnsons
    24' Sonic w/twin 250 HO Johnsons
    19' STV River Rocket w/FrankenRude II
    Allison XR 2002 w/Frankenrude II
    Hydrostream 18' V-King w/Frankenrude II

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  9. #37
    Join Date
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    Quote Originally Posted by Instigator View Post
    Got your PM about Sportys/CLE's on your boat and thought I would answer here for those following w/similar style (heavy vee's) rigs.

    In my experience, they wont work. You need to carry the bow and Sporty/CLE's add too much planning surface to the bottom of the case.
    Which means, it lifts the transom and drops the bow.[
    Opposite of what you want.

    I did tons of testing on my first twin O/B 24' Sonic, including nose cones as it was doing the magic 80 mph (per the experts) that you need them.
    W/O them, it flew the bow perfect w/zero trim. The perfect scenario.
    W/Bobs cones installed, I lost 3 mph and it took full/max up trim to get that.
    Knocked the cones off it returned to where it was.

    On surfacing the cases on your boat, due to the weight, Im not sure youll get there.
    I also tested set back and engine height on that boat.

    Had a 20" bracket and added 6" mechanical plates and gained ZERO.
    We tested height, back to back, same lake, same time.
    We started where the boat was running 80 then raised the motors in 1/2" increments. (remember the experts)
    First 1/2" did nothing, 2nd 1/2" raised RPM but not speed (meaning the 26" Choppers were starting to slip), 3rd 1/2" (now up 1 1/2") added more R's and now lost speed.
    I sold the plates (one use) and dropped the motors back where they were.

    So again, my unprofessional opinion, youll hate em.

    Something else to consider in that swap is that you lose the OMC shift interrupter when going to the Merc style shifting mechanism.
    If you kill the motor to shift, who cares. I like shifting mine running. Because I can.
    On one of my conversions I mounted an old OMC kicker push button kill switch to the shift lever so I could hit it while shifting.
    It killed one bank of cylinders same as the factory set up did.

    On the other I used the mechanism off a Merc I/O and mounted it in the boat. Similar to the OMC it sensed load on the mechanism while shifting and dropped cylinders.
    It was a PIA and I never got it to work repeatedly.

    Hope that helps Michael.


    QUOTE=mrichartz;3183297]Actually depends on what your doing read baja200merk post they use the 1.62 gearing and will be much faster..

    But I
    Should have worded title different but..
    Looking into what will hold up to being surfaced
    Best, is actually what I want.. it may just be what I've got is what I've got...mine are pinned and change the fluid often.
    I had one go on me from surfacing it, but might just be it and to bad..
    And might just be cheaper to buy/rebuild a lower if it goes again
    I can't use that kind of gearing because of my motors.. compression , porting and weight.. need the 1.87


    Michael
    [/QUOTE]

    Do you remember how much your sonics weighed?

    Ok so it sounds like it's not worth it and won't work anyway.sounds like it's only worth it for smaller boats etc
    Saves me money anyway if not going work.
    Can always rebuild replace what I have if one goes...

    Actually they are surfacing and was over 85 even with the old powerheads with the new powerheads adds a good amount of HP...
    I don't need much trim at all if any.have the 8" setbacks and the CMC jackplates and low water pickups..

    Like I said I've only had one go because of surfacing melted a seal..but after that added the water lines to spray them down hoping to cool them not sure it does what I want but haven't had a problem since.

    Trying to find the videos..


    Thanks Michael
    Last edited by mrichartz; 01-15-2020 at 07:43 PM.
    LETS GO BRANDON.... LETS GO BRANDON

    Sometimes I talk to myself...then we both just laugh and laugh

    '84 Checkmate Convincor

  10. #38
    Join Date
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    Oh you run 25" motors too.
    So you don't have problem with grip on take off ?

    W/o the jackplates I had to turn the wheel back and forth a bit and let the motors spin up a bit till the props would catch.
    The jackplates are great for adjustment on take off with them all the way down the props are deep enough for grip.
    And as soon as I'm moving start lifting them and when moving above 65-70 lift them up and up can feel the difference and see/feel the speed increase and jack them all the way and go..
    LETS GO BRANDON.... LETS GO BRANDON

    Sometimes I talk to myself...then we both just laugh and laugh

    '84 Checkmate Convincor

  11. #39
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    1.60 gear test results?

    Quote Originally Posted by baja200merk View Post
    Way too many variables to make that claim. Sportys work well 2” above the bottom. The main benefit is the big gear but we just got the first set of 1.60 gears for m2 etec cases which i plan to prove the fact that the type of case or shape does not matter when it’s not in the water. Decent skeg and torque tab will run with no nose cone. I’ve already been 105 with no cone it doesn’t matter because it’s bone dry anyway.
    Hey Kevin. I couldn’t find any more info on the 1.60 gears. Have you had a chance to try them out? Were the results as you expected? Matt

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