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Thread: Stuck Prop

  1. #61
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    I'd be doing the same as you before giving up and getting the grinder out. I love a challenge and they always seems to find me lol.

  2. #62
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    Quote Originally Posted by sharpeye Mike View Post
    I'd be doing the same as you before giving up and getting the grinder out. I love a challenge and they always seems to find me lol.
    Yep, me too. And sometimes you find a NEW way that works! Never to old to learn and discover "Damn, never thought that"!

    A pic my Merc buddy's stuff, and his survivors...

    Click image for larger version. 

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    Last edited by Robby321; 01-03-2020 at 08:08 PM.

  3. #63
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    Robby... why all propshafts pointing downward. Here in Missouri every outboard and IO have them trimmed all the way UP so that the case fills with water and snow

  4. #64
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    Quote Originally Posted by roadkill636 View Post
    Robby... why all propshafts pointing downward. Here in Missouri every outboard and IO have them trimmed all the way UP so that the case fills with water and snow
    So THATS the cause of GLOBAL WARMING!

  5. #65
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    [QUOTE=Robby321;3181885]Yep, me too. And sometimes you find a NEW way that works! Never to old to learn and discover "Damn, never thought that"!

    Wow!

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    So after letting the 50/50 ATF and Acetone soak for a while I hooked up the wheeler puller again. Cranked it up by hand the best I could. Then, with protection as seen in the photo, hooked my impact wrench to it. Still nothing really budged. Think I'm down to two options: 1) Try a hydraulic puller, and 2) Cut it off. Not sure if I want to spring for a hydraulic puller that I may use one time and may not even work.

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  7. #67
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    Quote Originally Posted by Glastron1987 View Post
    So after letting the 50/50 ATF and Acetone soak for a while I hooked up the wheeler puller again. Cranked it up by hand the best I could. Then, with protection as seen in the photo, hooked my impact wrench to it. Still nothing really budged. Think I'm down to two options: 1) Try a hydraulic puller, and 2) Cut it off. Not sure if I want to spring for a hydraulic puller that I may use one time and may not even work.




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    Its time. Cut it off OR RISK screwing up splines and shaft needs replacement. JMHO..

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  9. #68
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    Your still working on this? You got more patience than I could imagine. While it's under tension HIT THE HUB!!! Try and drive it against the tension.

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  11. #69
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    Time to cut if off after 6 pages !!!!


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    That's the one piece prop and shaft version

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    Not saying this is the same issue, but I recently had a prop stuck on a shaft. It would move a little but not come off. After inspecting the shaft, it was that the splines on the very end got mushroomed due to the spacer pressing on them when the nut was tightened down. I has to get a small grinding bit and grind them straight before it came off.

  16. #72
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    Just install it on the motor with nut off and go for a ride guaranteed it will fall off in the middle of the lake if no one's around and you don't have another prop.. lol
    Last edited by mrichartz; 01-09-2020 at 05:05 PM.
    LETS GO BRANDON.... LETS GO BRANDON

    Sometimes I talk to myself...then we both just laugh and laugh

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  18. #73
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    Hydraulic puller is cheep to make. Bottle jack and 1/4” steel plate for home supple box store. 2-5 ton and some chain g-70 or 80 and hooks. Drill bit and bolts. Maybe $50 here.
    '06 Tracker All-Fish/Tournament V-18 90 Optimax, 46.8 gps Goal one complete reach 45 mph.

  19. #74
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    Put as much pressure on that puller as you can and break out the Map gas torch. Heat the metal part of the hub that's on the shaft. Heat it up real good, does not matter if the rubber catches fire..... if it don't come that way, you'll have to cut it off.
    "One of the penalties for refusing to participate in politics is that you end up being governed by your inferiors". Plato .

  20. #75
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    Quote Originally Posted by Motv18 View Post
    Hydraulic puller is cheep to make. Bottle jack and 1/4” steel plate for home supple box store. 2-5 ton and some chain g-70 or 80 and hooks. Drill bit and bolts. Maybe $50 here.
    Suggest not going that way as too easy shaft damage if its still stuck after all the different attempts. Multi tool or grinder, rubber off, cut inner 2 or more places and separate the froze part Heat helps here too. Been a Maintenance Machinist decades, and let me tell ya (said SS prop here so imagine SS shaft too) many are clueless about stainless steel. Its NOT like a Grade 8 bolt that has lots of carbon to heat treat.

    OK class, sit down and listen up and no bathrooms breaks!

    Stainless is TOUGH, not hardened much at all. More likes frozen putty.

    Are stainless steel bolts stronger than steel?

    In fact, due to their low carbon content, many stainless steel alloys cannot be hardened through heat treatment. Therefore, when compared to regular steel, the stainless alloys used in bolts are slightly stronger than an un-hardened (grade 2) steel but significantly weaker than hardened steel fasteners.

    OK now the meat of whats going on.

    Stainless Steel is especially susceptible to galling because of its “sticky” properties. It may not seem like it, but stainless steel is relatively soft compared to other common metals (such as zinc-plated steel). Once the material starts to deform and interfere with the mating material, the snowball starts.

    S/S both shaft as prop here not a dissimilar metal corroded prob, but its NOT using grease (after a clean shaft), and use simple water proof trailer bearing grease. Salty dogs needed cleaned and greased, done yearly. ****ing salt a bitch, as my slip in Puget Sound.

    Once just a TINY bit galling starts? Its not or ever sliding off again. Been there.

    Also a free lesson how Stainless behaves.

    Stainless steel is a ubiquitous material with a wide variety of applications–from use in medical devices, to automotive parts, to jewelry and cooking utensils. Much of the “magic” of this metallic material is that it is stainless, in theory, it doesn’t rust. However, if you have ever owned or used a stainless steel product it is likely that you have noticed rust (corrosion) and you may have even questioned if its name is a misnomer. Why does a material touted as “stainless” rust?
    Most people are familiar with metals, to include stainless steel, corroding when it’s exposed to environments such as seawater. Often, without understanding the exact science of what is occurring, people accept that exposing a metal product to seawater has a damaging effect. The science behind corrosion from seawater is that the water contains chlorine, which is corrosive to metals, including stainless steel. However, corrosion of stainless steel can also occur without producing any corrosion products to analyze (other than rust), and when an obvious corrosive environment is unable to be detected.
    To understand what makes stainless steel rust it is first important to understand the science that typically prevents it from rusting. Steel is made of iron and carbon, and stainless steel contains iron, carbon, and anywhere from 12-30% chromium. Stainless steel can contain other elements such as nickel and manganese, but chromium is the key element which makes it rust resistant. When the surface of normal steel is exposed to oxygen, it usually forms ferric oxide (Fe2O3) which has the well-known red rust color. Ferric oxide doesn’t form a continuous layer on the steel because the oxide molecule has a larger volume than the underlying iron atoms, and eventually spalls off leaving fresh steel exposed which then starts a deleterious rusting cycle. When stainless steel is exposed to oxygen, chromium oxide is created on the surface of the steel because chromium has a very strong affinity for oxygen. The chromium oxide is a very thin layer which doesn’t spall off, and it prevents further oxidation of the stainless steel. Even if stainless steel is scratched and the chromium oxide layer is removed, a new chromium oxide layer will form and protect the rest of the stainless steel beneath it. As long as there is sufficient chromium present, the chromium oxide layer will continue to protect the stainless steel and prevent it from rusting.
    Have you ever used a steel wire wheel or steel wool to clean off a stainless steel tool, and then the stainless tool rusted in the same spot which was brushed clean? Or have you seen a stainless steel container or sink rust? Stainless corroding in the absence of a corrosive element (such as chlorine) is usually from very tiny steel particles touching the stainless steel surface. Chromium can protect stainless steel if the localized concentration is in excess of 12%, but if you cover the stainless surface with sufficient steel particles, then the localized concentration of chromium can fall below the 12% threshold and the chromium oxide layer fails to protect the stainless steel from oxygen attack. If this type of corrosion happens to stainless steel, it is fixable by: (A) Cleaning off all the rust, and then (B) removing the tiny steel particles by thoroughly cleaning the stainless steel part, usually with a solvent. These two steps should allow the chromium oxide layer to protect the stainless from further oxidation.
    A less common form of rusting in stainless steel is after the stainless has been exposed to very high temperatures, often in the 750-1550°F range (400-850°C)1. This type of corrosion is often seen in welding applications in which stainless is heated and then cooled. If this happens, “sensitization” can occur which is where the carbon and the chromium bond together in the stainless steel and form carbides. These carbides situate themselves at the stainless steel grain boundaries, and the grain boundaries become deficient of chromium. With lower chromium concentrations at the grain boundaries, the chromium oxide protective layer can become discontinuous and rusting becomes possible. “Sensitization” can ruin stainless steel forever; however the damage can sometimes be mitigated with complex heat treating.
    Although rust is something most of us see on an everyday basis and appears to be a simple occurrence it can result from a number of complex processes. Understanding the materials science of metals is critical to ensuring correct product performance and fixing issues, such as rust, as they occur. It is also critical to understand the materials science of metals and rust when working on a failure analysis investigation involving corrosion. If you find yourself dealing with unexpected rust or other metal performance issues please comment below or reach out to us at info@polymersolutions.com.
    Last edited by Robby321; 01-09-2020 at 09:51 PM.

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