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Thread: Mid (can) swap

  1. #1
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    Mid (can) swap

    I know there was a thread goin bout swapping can without removing powerhead, just wanna make sure I dont tear chit up. Trim it up , drop lower , support powerhead , remove lower mounts, and it should drop out ?? Tryin save on gaskets

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    Am I on the rite track with that? Dont wanna break plates or top mounts stuff

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    Gaskets are cheaper than breaking something...and probably easier than trying to support it etc...??
    Curious
    LETS GO BRANDON.... LETS GO BRANDON

    Sometimes I talk to myself...then we both just laugh and laugh

    '84 Checkmate Convincor

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    I'm pretty sure this is easiest _quickest way. I just cant member who it was sayin it. They will see it soon

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    Quote Originally Posted by Merc 2.5 View Post
    I'm pretty sure this is easiest _quickest way. I just cant member who it was sayin it. They will see it soon
    If you see the other post can you put link here..

    I mean I can see how it could be easier... Just always pulled it all apart
    LETS GO BRANDON.... LETS GO BRANDON

    Sometimes I talk to myself...then we both just laugh and laugh

    '84 Checkmate Convincor

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    That was me. plain and simple it was a ball br----r! i split a 1987, thank god i was a fresh water motor. i fought me a the way. permatex,antisieze, pb blaster, gloves, brake kleen, wd40. gasket scraper a must, razor blades/holder. refrain from using a hammer a all costs. put in new lower seals too. youll need anarobic gel red sealer. dont get burned, o:reilly auto had it, 6$ anywhere else 16$. im ready for the l/u tomorrow. ph still hanging.on the hook. i grouped my nuts,washers in zip-loks, marked. order of assembly, cause i cant rember s t!

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    Quote Originally Posted by Merc 2.5 View Post
    I know there was a thread goin bout swapping can without removing powerhead, just wanna make sure I dont tear chit up. Trim it up , drop lower , support powerhead , remove lower mounts, and it should drop out ?? Tryin save on gaskets
    there are bolts under powerhead into adaptor plate. how can you get at em with ph on? ph studs go thru the whole deal, adaptor and can.
    Last edited by KIRCHNER; 12-09-2019 at 08:18 PM.

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    Quote Originally Posted by KIRCHNER View Post
    there are bolts under powerhead into adaptor plate. how can you get at em with ph on? ph studs go thru the whole deal, adaptor and can.
    Yea that's what I was wondering
    LETS GO BRANDON.... LETS GO BRANDON

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    '84 Checkmate Convincor

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    A lot of work to make some noese....3 rear bolts

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    A few $'s or a little work in savings are just not worth a piece of mind that all is back together properly!......JMPO

    KIRCHNER, they leave the bolts hanging.

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    its simple.. john tiger did an article showin' all involved when they were doin' "tuner test".. I do know that only way first time you had to loosen and "cut" lower mount bolts (first time doin' it) then replace insertin' them backwards (nut on can end) from original.. only four nuts (4 long power head studs) and three bolts (adapter to can)..

    can see reason they were doin' it for testin' and time considerations but really no other reason.. especially if ya only gonna do it one time...
    Last edited by tlwjkw; 12-10-2019 at 07:06 AM.

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    Ok thanks tommy. I knew it could b done like that by lookin at it , but my mount bolts are still in like stock , I had pull lower anyway to get new pump kit , and I got this extra can drilled and tapped incase to loud I can take it back to quiter , I'll prob just order the gaskets with water pump , I'll see how it.goes

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    The old gen2 ridgeback cans have different lower mounts. no mount covers. there intergrated part of the can. on top the adaptor is the mount.

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    wrong thread.....
    Last edited by tlwjkw; 12-11-2019 at 06:23 AM.

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    It's not hard to do on a 2.5 and its much easier than pulling the power head if all you're doing is changing the tuner or removing the liner.

    1. remove the lower unit
    2. remove the large retaining ring on the bottom of the swivel pin. There also may be a small grounding strap at the bottom bonding the housing to the swivel bracket if so you will need to unhook one end.
    3. remove the nuts and washers on the long powerhead studs. There is 4 of them. 2 on each side
    4. remove the 3 bolts on the back of the adapter plate that goes into the driveshaft housing. These can be a little tricky. You may have to loosen them a little and allow the housing to fall down a little at a time.

    I did this on a 175efi a few weeks ago because the tuner was loose. I already had the lower unit off and was able to remove the housing, fix the tuner, and put it all back together in about an hour.

    If you are changing out the exhaust housing I would swap over the lower motor mounts and bottom yoke while I had both housings off the engine. If your new one still has these installed then it makes it even easier.

    Hope this helps
    Last edited by 99jav; 12-11-2019 at 09:09 PM.

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