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  1. #1
    Join Date
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    Building a test pit????

    Anyone done this???

    Spent yrs debating a dyno Vs a test pit and think for me, I want a test pit.

    A have the property (right behind my shop &#128521 to do it and like the idea of being able to back my twin O/B Checkmate project in and dial/troubleshoot both motors w/o moving the boat. (This would also effect the mod level of those motors)
    I still have an unfinished 3.3 project to dial too.

    Ive been lucky in the past and lived 5 mins from a ramp in Fla and 15 while in southern Ohio.
    Its still a pain in the ass to do.

    I do it w/a test wheel on the motor and boat strapped to trailer.
    So you’re now blocking a lane at the ramp which means it must be off season/hrs or an unknown ramp or both.
    Ive done both and still sucks. Pull out to let someone else in who can’t back a trailer.....

    Ever jetted a motor while in water?
    It sucks.
    Normally I pull to top off ramp, re-jet, then back in water.
    Still sucks.

    So my answer is to dig a pit behind my shop and fill it w/water.
    Now rig stays in water, steps from my shop and tools.
    How bout breaking in a new motor???

    Half of my goof ball motor projects would have gone wasaayyyyyy better w/that scenario.

    All that being said, I just bought a sub compact tractor w/a bucket on the front, hoe on the back, to build one with.

    Anyone done this before?? Didn’t find it on YouTube. Ramps yes, pits no.

    Looking for dimensions and what to line it with, pics etc.

    Used to be a shop w/one by me yrs ago and may go take a look if still there.
    Ive been there when in use and it rocked!

    Any help would be greatly appreciated.

    Thx fellars!

    Gary
    I'd rather be competitive w/junk I built in my garage than win w/stuff I bought.


    I refuse to allow common sense to interfere w/my boat buying decisions.


    Checkmate 16' 140 Johnson
    Hydrostream 17' Vector FrankenRude I
    Laser 480 (?) 21' w/GT 200
    Glastron Carlson Conquest w/XP 2.6
    Glastron Carlson CVX 20 w/XP 2.6
    24' Sonic w/twin 250 Johnsons
    24' Sonic w/twin 250 HO Johnsons
    19' STV River Rocket w/FrankenRude II
    Allison XR 2002 w/Frankenrude II
    Hydrostream 18' V-King w/Frankenrude II

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  3. #2
    Join Date
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    Go to the website for Double R performance. They’re a local Nortech dealer about 80 miles north of Toronto. I’m sure there’ll be a few shots of their set up.
    Raymond put in a very large test pit about 15 years ago for the same reasons you mentioned above.
    They can have a couple boats in the tank, off trailers and another couple on trailers at the ramp.
    All concrete walls, bottom & ramp.
    I assume it’s a lot bigger then what you’ve got in mind but it’ll give you some ideas.

  4. #3
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    Concrete, gunite, hand-packed, forms. Basically a roughed in small pool with main drain, pump and a ramp. Would be a thing.

  5. #4
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    Some kind of concave back wall to prevent blowing all the water out when you goose it,......when I purchased my first MX15, Princeton Marine had a pit outback, they fired my boat up and goosed it pretty good, pushed the boat, trailer and fork truck uphill, with your twin engine Checkmate, how do you plan to hold it back??? Oh yeah, Merry Christmas!!!

  6. #5
    Join Date
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    Thx for the input so far guys.

    As to pushing the boat up the ramp, that’s why you use a test wheel.
    It loads the motor w/o pushing the boat. You could tie one to dock, put your foot on the floor and the boat stays there.

    I know everyone tries using props of some sort but that also causes the water to oscillate and the motor wont hold a steady load/RPM.

    On the Checkmate, I would only be running one motor at a time.

    Concrete is probably the answer but was trying to keep $$ down.
    Ultimately may be less anyhow.
    I'd rather be competitive w/junk I built in my garage than win w/stuff I bought.


    I refuse to allow common sense to interfere w/my boat buying decisions.


    Checkmate 16' 140 Johnson
    Hydrostream 17' Vector FrankenRude I
    Laser 480 (?) 21' w/GT 200
    Glastron Carlson Conquest w/XP 2.6
    Glastron Carlson CVX 20 w/XP 2.6
    24' Sonic w/twin 250 Johnsons
    24' Sonic w/twin 250 HO Johnsons
    19' STV River Rocket w/FrankenRude II
    Allison XR 2002 w/Frankenrude II
    Hydrostream 18' V-King w/Frankenrude II

  7. #6
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    You could always go the Eliminator factory route!!!!!


    is gone


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  9. #7
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    Nice coping, looks like marbelite after the ramp.
    Last edited by FMP; 12-08-2019 at 12:38 PM.

  10. #8
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    We had one at the dealership I worked at for many years...just a boat ramp to no where basically..concrete block walls and concrete ramp..dozens of test wheels...if we didn't have a test wheel for the motor ,we would cut the blades down on an old junker prop ..chop them off till the motor would rev up steady rpm with no push...
    the main problem was that in the SC summer time here ,the algae would grow so bad that after 3-4 min running in the pit the water intakes would stop up and the motor would run hot...
    put clorine tabs in every few days...ended up with pool filters ,etc. to keep it kinda cleaned up....
    They work very good,but take a lot of upkeep ....

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  12. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by BUZZIN' DOZEN View Post
    You could always go the Eliminator factory route!!!!!
    When my Wife was talking about getting/wanting a pool... I told her this is the pool I want..
    Said fine but I have to keep it clean... But I don't think she was serious or realized i was.. lol
    LETS GO BRANDON.... LETS GO BRANDON

    Sometimes I talk to myself...then we both just laugh and laugh

    '84 Checkmate Convincor

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  14. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by BOATMANBLUES View Post
    We had one at the dealership I worked at for many years...just a boat ramp to no where basically..concrete block walls and concrete ramp..dozens of test wheels...if we didn't have a test wheel for the motor ,we would cut the blades down on an old junker prop ..chop them off till the motor would rev up steady rpm with no push...
    the main problem was that in the SC summer time here ,the algae would grow so bad that after 3-4 min running in the pit the water intakes would stop up and the motor would run hot...
    put clorine tabs in every few days...ended up with pool filters ,etc. to keep it kinda cleaned up....
    They work very good,but take a lot of upkeep ....
    Best would be if you had a small creek at the property to draw from and then gravity drain back down. No sense using the well or town water if you can.

  15. #11
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    I have multiple Johnson/Evinrude outboards from the 1970's and there is just no substitute for in-water testing. Setting up the timing to "perfect" pays huge dividends. I have 2 test wheels for the small, 13 spline OMC's and use this test tank to dial-in the in-gear idle speed timing, the pick-up timing, and the WOT timing. I am just amazed at how well these old 2-stroke outboards start, idle, and pull from 900 rpm to 5,000 with never a hiccup - Here is a video from my "tuned" 1975 Johnson 70 hp.

    This tank is a re-cycled bulk tank that I cut down to fit my transom. Total cost $50 Gordon

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	Test Tank.jpg 
Views:	52 
Size:	361.3 KB 
ID:	454140

    Here is the little engine that could - big, heavy fishing boat 0-30 mph in about 6 seconds. 100% stock -

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zTUPzc-rqRg

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  17. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by Instigator View Post
    Anyone done this???

    Spent yrs debating a dyno Vs a test pit and think for me, I want a test pit.

    A have the property (right behind my shop &#128521 to do it and like the idea of being able to back my twin O/B Checkmate project in and dial/troubleshoot both motors w/o moving the boat. (This would also effect the mod level of those motors)
    I still have an unfinished 3.3 project to dial too.

    Ive been lucky in the past and lived 5 mins from a ramp in Fla and 15 while in southern Ohio.
    Its still a pain in the ass to do.

    I do it w/a test wheel on the motor and boat strapped to trailer.
    So you’re now blocking a lane at the ramp which means it must be off season/hrs or an unknown ramp or both.
    Ive done both and still sucks. Pull out to let someone else in who can’t back a trailer.....

    Ever jetted a motor while in water?
    It sucks.
    Normally I pull to top off ramp, re-jet, then back in water.
    Still sucks.

    So my answer is to dig a pit behind my shop and fill it w/water.
    Now rig stays in water, steps from my shop and tools.
    How bout breaking in a new motor???

    Half of my goof ball motor projects would have gone wasaayyyyyy better w/that scenario.

    All that being said, I just bought a sub compact tractor w/a bucket on the front, hoe on the back, to build one with.

    Anyone done this before?? Didn’t find it on YouTube. Ramps yes, pits no.

    Looking for dimensions and what to line it with, pics etc.

    Used to be a shop w/one by me yrs ago and may go take a look if still there.
    Ive been there when in use and it rocked!

    Any help would be greatly appreciated.

    Thx fellars!

    Gary
    ...Man Gary, that's gunna take a lot of ethylene glycol! lol

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  19. #13
    Join Date
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    Around here I have seen shops use the large cattle troughs for testing. The water can get pretty nasty after awhile.
    1971 Sidewinder 14 SS w Johnson 90 v-4
    1959 Texas Maid Falcon w Mercury Mark 35A
    1981 Sylvan Sportster w Johnson 85 v-4
    2006 Harris pontoon with a Yamaha 90
    1969 Sunfish sailboat

  20. #14
    Join Date
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    That would be super cool, I got bitched out last week at the ramp for the noise...

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  22. #15
    Join Date
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    Did you ever see the one at Johns Custom Marine?
    platform goes down so lower boat into tank on the trailer, I liked it as flat ground when not in use and takes up same room as ramp to nowhere.
    Al might jump in and tell us what it was like to use.
    Personally I like the indoor test tank, take engine off boat and crane into tank.

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