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Thread: poppit question

  1. #1
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    poppit question

    my 2.4 has a dog bone shape casted in block, the small end has no cover, a factory plug is pressed in. the large end has a cover but no hose nipple . can the valve operate with no hose. and left passage plugged? looks all factory.

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    The ones like u got used no hose to top of block , guess u say self contained

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    That triangular cavity, behind the poppit, do u know does water flow downward, thru adaptor and then exit in mid? if so why cant i run a dump hose out thru cowl , without effecting powerhead cooling system? basically want to keep stock cooling system, just route spent water outside. every post ive read tells a different confusing method. have any opinion on this? ART.

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    Why?

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    Must be the PTSD kickin in. i have a hard time with the holiday season. tryin to keep my mind busy. anxiety too.

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    Quote Originally Posted by KIRCHNER View Post
    That triangular cavity, behind the poppit, do u know does water flow downward, thru adaptor and then exit in mid? if so why cant i run a dump hose out thru cowl , without effecting powerhead cooling system? basically want to keep stock cooling system, just route spent water outside. every post ive read tells a different confusing method. have any opinion on this? ART.
    Click image for larger version. 

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    I divert the poppet water at the adaptor plate. Plug the dump hole on bottom side, you can drill a small hole plug aimed toward water pump to help cool it or not, I’ve ran them both ways with no issues with water pump or lower. There’s two small cooling holes in rear of plate to cool tuner and mid, these seem to be enough to keep things in check at pump area. There’s a flat spot on outside of plate adjacent to dump cavity you can drill and tap for your fitting

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  9. #7
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    LOOKS good to me. i found a roll of DEI thermal wrap , from my drag racing days. gonna wrap the tuner and secure it with some ss hose clamps or ss fishing leader wire. its a 15'' so pump is closer than standard 20''. the heat wrap really works and water doesnt effect it. maybe the paint on can will stay nice! i have 4 cooling holes in rear ill leave em be. the old 2.4 is lookin like a hot rod more n more. the 15'' has a slash cut exit, the marine patrol will hear this one. my race car sounded diff when i wraped the pipes. ill be selling a bobs alien cowl,skirt. pan, 1 pc adaptor/ 2.4 tuner ported for 2.5.
    Last edited by KIRCHNER; 12-05-2019 at 05:06 PM.

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    Poppet and dump water should be plumbed at the bearing carrier unless you have something against gear lube.

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  12. #9
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    i have decided to leave plumbing alone. i have a alignment problem ridgeback tiller bolts not lining with 2pc solid mounts 2pc plates, when sandwiched are about 1/8'' above can. ridgeback tiller attachment flange sits higher. when using a 2pc adaptor . i cant raise the can have solid lower mounts or machine swivel collar to lower tiller.. im stumped.

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    factory 15 clamp/tiller/trim and can or cut down 20" stuff?

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    Cut down stuff.

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    uh-oh!..

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    oh man, that doesnt sound good. if i bore out the alum mounts ill gain a little + double can gasket.??? i was starring at it for 1/2 hr. really bummed out..

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    wouldn't even consider doin' that.. those tolerances are non-forgivin'.. are you sayin tha adapter plates will have 1/8" gap between plates and tha can if you bolt 'em up to tiller arm?

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  19. #15
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    other things effected "if" tha can is 1/8" short are tha drive shaft, shift shaft and water tube... you may need ta find out tha actual, accurate overall measurement of a "factory 15" compared to yours ...
    Last edited by tlwjkw; 12-07-2019 at 10:44 AM.

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